Beginners Guide to PUSH & PULL Developing Black and White Film

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- - - TIME CODES - - -
0:00 Intro
01:12 Push & Pull & ISO
02:58 Developing Times
03:19 Pushing & Pulling Exposure
04:18 HP5 at 400
04:57 HP5 Pulled to 100
05:51 HP5 Pulled to 50
06:39 HP5 Pushed to 800
07:42 HP5 Pushed to 1600
08:42 The Limitations of Developing
09:51 Squarespace
10:40 HP5 Pushed to 3200
11:43 HP5 Pushed to 6400
12:43 HP5 Pushed to 12800
13:46 Stand Development & Bromide Drag
14:50 HP5 Shot at 400 & Pushed to 800
15:56 The Negative
16:24 The Importance of Proper Exposure
17:36 On the Subject of Pushing Color
17:50 Conclusion
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best film photography channel on youtube

max.nt
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i went out once with hp5, on a protest, it was dark and i rated it at 1600, developped in ID-11. for a protest in night photo, it was punchy gritty and overall really nice contrast. i would definitely doing it again.

teddy
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After years, I finally decided to give push/pull a try and it took me a bit to wrap my head around it. I appreciate how comprehensive this is.

okletsskate
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The shoot at 13:26, I know that it's not accurate as you say, but it's a really cool look. Really cool look really impressive results. Looks like an album cover. Especially for HP5, which is is really the wonder bread of B&W.

johnkaplun
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Another fantastic video, not only explaining the terms "push" and "pull", but also showing some images (and zooming in on the details) illustrating the effects. And HP5 sure was a good choice, as it seems to take a lot of abuse pretty forgivingly.
I would have liked to hear a few thoughts on how you arrived at the decision which developer you'd use for the various rolls - but I generally appreciated the video, giving a good introduction to what you were trying to show in the first place.

Thanks Noah for the time and effort going into this highly educational video - just enough detail to make it understandable, withstanding the temptation to go off on one of the numerous tangents to the subject.

docDeutschmann
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Dang. Every time I search for a film related subject, you pop. Subscribed.

SrNutritivo
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Thanks you for all your hard work producing such a comprehensive and informative presentation.

joefaracevideos
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Best video about pushing/pulling development i've seen yet.

andriusbykovas
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I like HP5 for the exact reason that you get a handful of ISOs in one film. I haven't met a high ISO b/w film that looks good with HC-110 so pushing HP5 or Tri-X is kind of my go to.

Exxcalibur
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I pretty much shoot HP5 at 800 all the time, with my developer, Adox FX-39 II, it really works well for me and I like capturing misty mornings with it, the grain suits the mood and I still get excellent sharpness.

trulsdirio
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HC-110 isn't really the best for pushing, since it's a relatively high contrast developer. Using Xtol will give you a much smoother, lower contrast result when pushing 2 or 3 stops. HP5 still looks good at 3200 in Xtol, and does not have more grain than Delta 3200 or T-Max 3200. But of course, you're gonna get a lot of grain at any speed if you don't meter for the darkest shadows. My favourite b&w look is Kodak XX at ISO 1600.

thedondeluxe
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I've been getting good results shooting Kentmere 400 in low light with my camera's meter set to 1000, but pushed two stops in development. It seems to give better margin for error in the shadows. The highest highlights are going to blow out either way when pushed that far.

GuernB
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THIS VIDEO IS DAMN GOOD! VERY INFORMATIVE AND UNLOCKS THE ABILITY TO BE CREATIVE WITH FILM!!! I'VE ALWAYS WONDERED ABOUT PUSHING AND PULLING...BUT SEEING IT VISUALLY, IT MAKES MUCH SENSE! I GOT ILFORD HP5 120 ROLL AND CAN'T WAIT TO TRY THIS EXPERIMENTATION!! I LOVE DARK N GRITTY GUTTER LIKE IMAGES. SEEING THIS VIDEO WILL HELP ME (HOPEFULLY) GET THE RESULTS I'M LOOKING FOR...MOS DEFINITELY WILL MORE HAVING AN UNDERSTANDING! THANKS FOR THE DOPE VIDEO!🙏🏾🙌🏾👊🏾

- THE BLACKMAN ARMED WITH A CAMERA

theblackmanarmedwithacamera
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I don’t understand why people don’t usually consider the benefits of pull processing for scenes with hight contrast. Great video!

robinsievers
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One of the best explanation of the process. Well done.

peter
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I'm late to the party, but thank you for this video. I recently dusted off my old Nikon F75 and an old rangefinder since my son needed to borrow my DSLR for school. Number 1, I forgot how much I enjoyed film. Number 2, film and film development is far more expensive than it was when I used to shoot. So, I'm finally at a point where I want to learn how to develop my own film instead of running to Downtown Camera to have someone else do it (especially since my bank account doesn't like it when I go to the camera store 😂). 

My next goal is to figure out the Cinemax 8EE I picked up off of Kijiji recently since I have never used a super 8 before, but have always wanted to make short films on one when I was a kid.

cuppatea
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I think usually 2 stops is the max for pushing/pulling, I used fomapan at 400, 800, 1600 and 3200, the best results i had were with 800, and max with 1600, that's prob the best for most b&w films

GabrielLima-uimo
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brooo, those 3200 shots are kinda lit

bakeee
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one other point about this push/pull, it only makes real sense for Medium and large format film, where you shoot less film, aka 10-15 on roll film, or individual sheets on LF, where this indepth control of the shot is viable, you don't have to shoot an entire 24/36 exposure roll of 35 and importantly have to push/pull the whole lot (esp. if a lab does this!), you can pre-visualise a scene, expose a sheet in the camera, esp. for the scenes' conditions, then develop that sheet specific to how you want it to look, or what you & the lab tech discuss is the "look you are after", a far safer way, instead of with the whole roll, over or under may NOT be the best for every shot on the roll, but once you set asa on the dial, you are stuck with it, for the entire roll, as the entire roll is loaded and spooled onto the same bobbin and developed all together.

andyvan
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this is so amazing. Thank you for the effort and dedication.

thomaspham