Trimming the Fat & Breaking Things - B7 Build Series - Part 3

We upgrade our Team Associated B7 Carpet Car to be Faster, Lighter and Steer Better, but not without breaking and bending expensive aluminum items. Cry with us and watch now.

Items in the Video:

[BrianandLilMansStuff]

Loved the weighing of parts and corner balancing part. Wish more people would fully test/spec parts like that. 🏁😎👍👍

[cartender]

Oh Brett, big props for taking extra time to showcase pulling the film off of the programmer box!!!

[Dsinyourender]

Can’t wait to race at regionals! Yes go to the -4 chassis. I also recommend putting the slipper back on. We noticed with the slipper we didn’t lose speed but we were more consistent. Also this will save your spurs the 17.5 motors have a lot of punch and with the eliminators we noticed you will go through idlers faster as well. Maybe an avid slipper 👀

[doc_d]

Don't replace the chassis. You'll go broke. Buy a new chassis and use it as a template. Take off the front and then hold the new chassis up to the chassis on the car. You'll notice the front tab is bent up and twisted. Put it in a vice and twist it the opposite direction until it matches the new chassis. You've very likely bent your bulkhead as well. Put it on a flat surface and check it. Replace it if it's bent at all or you'll be chasing your tail. To get more steering, change the rear springs to yellow and change the rear shock oil to 32.5 wt. But most importantly get rid of that rear toe! Unfortunately AE for some reason gave us a C-block that doesn't allow for less toe. Put an R1 Quks wide C block on and try 0, 0.5 and 1 degree of rear toe and you'll have A LOT more steering. Make sure you are at zero front toe as well. Run -1 degree of camber front and rear. Run the camber links in their stock holes to start.

[ZAR]

Loving this series on the B7. Just bought a B7D from you guys.

[jerryvolpini]

Our track only allows slicks. Much easier on the carpet and reduces costs because no pins or bars to wear down. So, tires last much longer and no need to try a variety of treads. I actuall prefer the slicks, easier to get the car to pivot and move in the corners 👍

[rcvg]

I recently went to the 2wd wides and really like them. My favorite part is the extra steering under full acceleration, they just push less than the slims. They also last longer which is good for the wallet! Might be able to achieve the same level of steering authority with the slims with setup changes but I really liked the bolt on faster corners going to the wides.

[Beauchamp.Andrew-RC]

You should try get the B7 -4 Chassis for carpet, I run mine on dirt and the differences were insane, gave me a more aggressive and nimble feel in the rear of the car, as well as giving me a tiny bit more rear grip. Could try some different shock positions in the front end or even a KPI change to get some more entry/mid steering in the car. Love the videos!!

[Soysaucerc]

Being the one that lost to you in the last video, my opinion probably means nothing; but I stand with what I said about replacing full sets at a time for a consistent feel in the cars traction front to rear. Also, that servo weight plate made a huge difference for my car also as well as the Exotek slipper eliminator plate. Going to be a good race next time you’re out to have some good battles with us. Until next time Brett…

[heutmorgen]

nice 👌
love to learn from others mistakes 😁
just kidding.
love your videos. always good entertainment, keep it up 😁
-Daniel

[Recreation]

Interesting. I’m racing B7D and I think I’d be scare to run without a slipper. Will be interesting to see how your drive train holds up. Great series by the way!

[TastierBackInThes]

Great video. Yes to a new chassis, but more importantly, maybe dial that front camber back a little?

[UltegraSPD]

How they consider this stock boggles the mind. -U10

[LokiOsez]

I ran some practice laps on that layout when I was there for the dirt oval race. It’s definitely a very tricky layout. The first jump into that canyon jump in front of the driver stand is about further than it looks, you really need to keep your speed up around the right side sweeper to even clear the first part.

[jackschumacher]

Yes get and install the short chassis. Might as well now that the stock one is bent. Lol

[doc_d]

As a follow-on to my other comment... I'd never second guess Spencer Rivkin. He shows up at our track often and like all the pro's he's incredibly fast. But he's a pro driver running a mod buggy. He drives extremely aggressively compared to us mortal club racers. With that being said that 2 million weight diff lube isn't doing you any favors as a club racer running a stock 17.5 class. Try something like 60K and you'll have better off-power turn in and with a 17.5 stock motor running blinky shouldnt have any issues exitting turns and getting bsck on the power.. You can go up from there but I'd be very surprised if you end up any higher than 100K. I'd step up to a 32 or 33 tooth pinion. Check your brake setup in the ESC and radio. You mentioned wanting more brake. With stock settings you should have way too much brake. You should have to reduce your brake to around 80% on the radio to prevent locking up the brakes. Running some drag brake can help your initial turn in as well.but don't use it as a crutch / replacement for good braking technique. I add in just enough to to feel like the buggy has a bit of "engine braking" when I come off the throttle.

[seanmmonaghan]

You should do a video on how to swap this chassis from carpet to high grip clay, avoiding the need for two chassis. That would be a great thing to better understand.

[RR-hoek]

I miss the days of racing rc10s, and jrx2s in the dirt.

[extec]

try .1mm smaller holes in the shocks F-R as the car doubble bounce on landings and need slight more pack.

[SethRhodes-ph]

All the fast guys at my track are running the -4mm chassis. Most of those fast guys are factory AE sponsored racers and have had them for a bit.