1976 TR6 project - Part 1 - Stripping and assessing the engine

We have an engine rebuild ahead of us, but not only. This car will have lots of upgrades over the next few months. We start with pulling the engine out and assessing the situation, but while we wait for parts, machine shops etc. we will continue with the other projects on the rest of the car

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#Triumph #restoration #tr6

[stevestone]

Full detailed engine rebuild please Elin, love the channel.

[RichSnooks]

Elin, we always appreciate your detailed videos, even when you have covered this in previous builds. We keep learning every time you undertake a project like this and you are the only channel that does the detail so well. I am rebuilding a ‘65 TR4a and I always draw encouragement from you. All the best, Richard

[markleliaert]

Had to rebuild my head due to low compression. To get it off with engine still in place, I removed all the studs then had friend with pry bar in intake hole, I took a wood block and small sledge and one wack knocked the head loose. After install I was seeing coolant in the same spot. It was from the water pump housing leaking at the gasket. Was not tightened. Solved problem with wrenching on the three studs.

[mikemccoyrpt]

I love engine disassembly & diagnose videos

[BruceBoschek]

Engine disassembly, diagnosis and repair are always exciting and fun. That head and block will need magnafluxing for sure, and or chemical dye crack staining. Thanks for another entertaining and educational video.

[georgeryan]

Nice car, 76 last year . Worth a rebuild!

[jeanlouislafont]

I believe the air pump and air injection in the exhaust manifold was an accepted trick to lower the CO2 % contents in the discharge pipe to pass the emission acceptance test. Similar system existed on some Jaguar E type head.

[carlelliott]

Thanks Elin, very timely as I will be checking over my GT6 engine in the next couple of weeks and I know have useful tips to help me on my way

[Tglider]

I have seen galling on valve shafts too. Usually just a tiny spot but enough to prevent the valve from dropping. I use a fine wet stone to remove it.

[barry]

Very educational and magnifluxing should confirm issues one way or the other.

[markleliaert]

76 vehicles in California require smog testing. Needs a working air pump, valve, tubes in exhaust, etc. Unlucky for me because it's hard to find a good air pump. Needs to be tuned for a very lean adjustment to pass low idle hc.

[timhatzldakls]

Im getting ready to pull the engine from my 74 tr6. Can it be removed without removing manifolds. I don't ned to rebuild motor i need to remove body and repair frame.

[GarryKnezacek]

Hi Elin. I am currently restoring a 1960 Jaguar MK-2. I need to locate an automotive machine shop that is willing to tackle my 3.8 litre six cylinder long block machine work. Could you recommend a shop? Much appreciated. I enjoy watching your excellent and informative videos.

[darrelldamare]

Would checking the head torque before head removal have been a wise decision in case the head was not torqued properly? There were definitely valve seat issues anyway that I noticed and you pointed out.

[johnmoruzzi]

Better to take the opportunity to fit an earlier higher compression cylinder head (if available) if any machining or repairs are necessary…. Look at the depth of the combustion chambers !

Interesting to see a really late car that has had the emissions stuff removed…. nice car that will be enjoyed next driving season !

[andrepienaar]

Could it be that the head was removed to replace 'leaded' seats for 'unleaded' and some foreign object (piece of valve seat for instance) got stuck to the valve?

[jokirsch]

An easier way to remove the cyl. head goes by first removing the head studs, after that you will just fight a sticky head gasket. I’m dealing right now with a gt6 engine with the same symptoms. Liquid and oil loss due to a Payen head gasket, oil consumption due to used cylinders and piston rings combined with a high engine block pressure as the vent was clogged. Visible clues are fouled spark plugs and piston heads with burned oil and pressure washed spots on either cyl 6 and 1 piston head. Other traces are coolant and oil on the engine block. Hopefully there are no cracks…Engine overheating and white exhaust smoke with miss firing are commonplace. You will face a complete engine rebuild with new pistons, valves & guides, camshaft and all the distribution parts. And while you are having the engine out, do an inspection of the complete drive train.

[DEMOGarage]

My vote is to show the total rebuild details.

[alanm.]

The suspected "crack" where owner was seeing "green stuff" looks like a manufacturing flaw to me... but I am just looking at a video. It might look quite different in person.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the late TR6 use an intake manifold with engine coolant run through passages to warm it? Could that be the source of the "green stuff"? A leak onto the head would dry very quickly due to the heat.

[andrewdonald]

I’ll be following very keenly so the more detail the better Elin. BTW those crank pulleys are expensive. My car to be also has a piece out of the belt groove like yours, do you think it matters as it rotates it may wear belt?