Not all climbing anchors are bomber

Adrian Torchiana sent 3 webolettes for us to test. I assumed this was going to be 2x as strong but I suppose it is still super good enough!

How these anchors are used
02:51 Testing Webolette Anchors
07:50 Testing Little BFKs

[HowNOT]

How strong do you think an anchor should be to satisfy the "Strong" requirement in S.E.R.E.N.E.?

[handduggraverdronline]

When I first started painting we did a house exterior and I had to climb the roof and they secured me with a 100 ft extension cord. Well when I was done we had a 107ft cord .

[sailingmariposa]

Interesting that with all of these slings that none of the stitching failed, it was almost always at the knot. Great content!

[robertbutler]

Found your site looking for break strength tests on knots. Enjoy the heck out of the different rabbit holes the channel has headed down. In forestry/tree work rigging we can create some very strong loads, esp with mechanical assist using machines. Always learning. And your test rigs show some really cool stuff

[cfoxsvaguevideovault]

ur like "thats the E in Serene.... equalized" but half the letters in there are e

[johnkelbel]

I feel the sliding V going to your rigging plate allows changes in the 3 anchor positions, which is also contributing to equalizing the load which is skewing the results a bit.  Another way of pointing this out is that the rigging plate can pivot and any pivoting action of the plate causes one anchor point to move closer to the load and the opposite to move away from the load, where the test should be 3 unmovable anchor points.  This is most noticeable during the un-equalized test around the 6 minute point.

[ianvanham]

It would be interesting to put 3 more load cells in each leg of the anchor to see how equalized they actually are. 7:06

[ClimbingEasy]

I doubt this is any more versatile than using standard slings. Places like Joshua Tree I would find this hard to use because of the random anchor placements. Joshua Tree tip: bring a 30m static rope as a anchor sling, trust me you will want it.

[ananda_miaoyin]

Thank God you put this video out. I have been looking for proper ways to equalize my one point anchors.
Now I'm dialed and ready!
Greetings from Placerville.

[Spder]

An excellent examination of the subject. I think this is one of the best resources anywhere for knowledge around the topic of rigging. Love this channel!

[randomstranger]

I love this format of video. I feel like you and I have a similar type of brain and I can appreciate the curiosity and spontaneity and the need to share with other gear junkies and gear nerds.

[Lew]

My go-to was a cordolette made from 7mm nylon tied in a big loop. 3-points with a figure 8 similar to what's shown on the video, except I had 2 strands going to each bolt. I think I learned it from one of John Long's books. I'm not dead.

[mastheadmike]

I actually retired those exact slings from BD last year when I got back into climbing and learned about the five years rule of thumb for softgoods.

[sebitecs]

It's so nice to arrive home and get to see another video of yours, I really love the content!
Kind regards from Chile.

[OARomanov]

Great video! Please go on.
I will never do such test so videos like this are very important to understand how your climbing stuff is actually working.

[philmccracken]

I'm not even sure how I ended up on your channel. This is probably the 5th video I watched from you. I like every single one! I'm not into climbing or anything like that really. But I enjoy every bit of information that you put into your videos. Great content. Thank you.

[ajl]

In the UK we often build our anchors using excess rope instead of slings. I'd be curious to see the differences between in-reach and out of reach anchors, as well as how the number or anchor points/clove hitches affects the whole system's strength.

Is this something you've already covered?

[Nuggett]

This was amazing. Been watching you for awhile. Thank you for your content. Rope access and rescue here, truelly clears questions that pop up in my mind all the time.

[timothyfisher]

I really liked the third test. even thought only one anchor port was loaded initially, before the failure the load was shared by all 3 points. Anyone who has watched even one of your vids all the way through sees that webbing stretches quite a bit before it fails. It would be nice to see a two anchor two sling test with the lengths uneven. knots = weak!

[DaftFader]

This is some of my favorite content. (I don't even climb - anymore, not that I ever seriously did), I just like seeing things break for some reason lol.