Would you bail on this? #rockclimbing #climbing #anchor

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Well like a military bomb tech once said, If I succeed then I'm good but if I fail, suddenly it isn't my problem anymore

juggaloforlife
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Send it to the break test guys and see how much it coulda loaded

cirquedumushroom
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Why not just use a single carabiner and keep the rest?

eyescreamcake
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1 biner there, 1 on the bolt below, and add the last biner to the harness for next time.

MysteriousMrC
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I don’t think the people who anchored the bolt there did a “bad service” out of spite. That’s probably the only option they had.
What is more it looks as if it’s been there for years

lucasfonseca
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I would add prusik to the breaking strand so whatever fails I am not taking a large fall (prusik woul dlimit fall distance to the next anchor instead of doubling this distance when ust lowering)

vlaaady
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I've lowered myself on much worse than that. If in doubt, climb over it and find a better anchor, use your own judgement, it is your life that is dependant on it.

thegingerpowerranger
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I'd clip the top with a 60 and funk test it. If it stays put, the bolt is good to bail. But if it doesn't, I guess I hope I have a drill kit? If I have a drill kit, why am I leaving a self drive?

carsonmcmahon
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I’d use the single carabiner in the hanger, and I try my damned-est to carefully down climb . Relying on my climbing as much as possible without weighting this bolt.

Phoenixhunter
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I'd clip it and bounce it pretty hard while still clipped to my pro below. If it holds use two of those carabiners opposite and opposed directly to the hanger (assuming the are still in decent shape) and bail off that. If I didn't feel safe with that it's time to down climb.

mattdryden
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That is one crusty alpine draw 😖 who knows how long that’s been there!!

annaalewine
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Is that actually a bail biner or did someone accidentally leave it there and someone else hung it up for them to find it...??? Because I've seen that at some crags. Someone will accidentally leave something or drop something while packing up and someone else will hang it up so if the owner comes back they'll find it...

endlesssearchofknowledgean
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Double spring gate carabineers facing opposite directions at least at one time if not now, were accepted as equal in occupational climbing as a tri-lock.

nathanhampton
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Unfortunately I’ve seen worse to bail on in some of the crags of NC. I’d that that crusty thing over what I’ve had to deal with

chocolatedumdum
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Booty. Carabiners for dog leaches. Bin the sling. Clip the bolt and don't fall. The bolt will have to be replaced...

YannCamusBlissClimbing
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That is the first time I have seen one of those bent bluewater hangers installed.

bobbyhutton
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Are you not standing on the ground? Maybe not a bail draw, but a belay attachment?

lorinichols
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If your gonna leave two biners then why not opposite & opposing?

nicholasraymond
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Just remember. We good people live with a world of people who are doing good, think they are doing good or are just f**king stupid. Be the good person. Remove it and carry on with your life.

brent
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Double biner reduces bend radius. Less likely to cut rope. I have a set of dyneema slings that are well over 10yrs old. I use them for rigging large chucks of wood regularly (100-200lbs+). I dont use them for life support anymore just due to age and use. but what I'm getting at is that the strength in that sling may surprise you. Is it excessively frayed? Nicked?

bradnotchad