Climbing Anchors from the Bolting Bible

Here is the Climbing Anchor section from the Bolting Bible explaining in detail all the options for how you can configure climbing anchors.

[FALLNxMPIR]

Damn, I love this channel. I will forever recommend this guy for anyone who is curious about climbing safety

[rjmackenzie]

Holy hell man, I'm just getting into bolting (with support from locals) and this kinda thing is insanely informative and better than what I've seen elsewhere. Cheers, thank you.

[chrishackbardt]

Quick acknowledgement in favor of your videos. I'm a geologist and really appreciate the respect you give the hard rock. I'm also way too fat and old to even consider even lowlining, but i really dig what you folks are doing. Mostly, i enjoy hearing perspective from just about anybody who has invested sufficient time to display some level of mastery in their chosen craft. All the best!

[TheMetalButcher]

I like Bobby's anchors. Feels much more safe than most open systems.

[rickedeckard]

Can never have enough of this info online. Thanks!

[johnboling]

Pre-rigged for lowering is not taught often enough. Thank you for showing this! I still climb with people that setup top rope anchors requiring someone to untie and so forth before coming down.

[nielmostert]

At 13:50, the comment re the lower back-up that never saw any wear and should thus be safe...this is true for this setup but needs to be applied with caution. In corrosive environments, ex. close to the ocean, the reason for anchor/bolt failure will probably be due to this environment, and not wear from climbing traffic. Both anchors will have been exposed to the same environment, and thus if one fails there is a high chance the other will fail too, especially under a bit of shock load, which this setup will provide. Great refresher on anchors though :)

[menmentantan]

I like your Tool Wall Behind/ Now trying to copy it to my garage. (TKS for Good Sample)

[hugh]

great content was just looking for a refresher on this topic.

[jeffabercrombie]

Dam it, super informative, i remember roping to trees for anchors many years ago and now there’s many different options

[kentuckyproud]

I like just seeing two hangers. It not only keeps the thieft down, the cost to the community down, but is a standard the community has come to expect. Haven't seen many of the rams horns or HD tow hooks in the Red but lots of offset chains. Again, I think two bolts/hangers is more the enough.

[darkmatter]

You really care for safety and excellent explanation of every aspect :)

[jslphdx]

In Frankenjura and Altmühltal (two of the oldest and best destinations in germany) there are almost no redundant anchors. There is just one well placed Glue in and thats it...pretty scary sometimes...
not to forget about the hight of the first bolt on older routes, it's often at around 7 meters...

[MJ]

Its quite common near me to just have 2 big glue-in bolts to re-thread the rope through. These tend to be at less popular crags as to replace them you'd have to take the old bolt out or drill a new hole which isn't ideal. But it's quite neat.

[charliezachariades]

I really like the setup with the ram's horns on the top at 15:45 but agree the reverse carabiner would have many eyebrows raised without an explanation. Any reason why you wouldn't just put two opposed carabiners instead? Even a single locking one seems better for redundancy

[jerfguy]

Thanks for this video! I've been waiting for this exact one but I love them all. I've learned a lot from you. Thank you.

[inderida]

that was me that jugged that line when it got stuck!!! one of the scariest things ive done!!! lol

[mathislanzlinger]

Here in europe we most often see completly assembled belay stations in a vertical bolt pattern with a chain and rings. I really like the rings a lot more than the quicklinks, because they wear out evenly and the risk of your rope getting pinched against the rock is a bit lower.

[pierreostergren]

Awesome I love that you doing climbing videos too. Big it from Sweden

[ermangovi]

The premise: I live, and climb, in Italy.
Here we prefer to use two bolts Connected together with a chain, often (but not always) of stainless steel, all connected to the rope with a stainless carabiner, on sport routes. On multipitch sport route (Non-classic /traditional routes) often have only two "ferla"s (i didn't found out the right translate, sorry dude) that can be used to make an anchor with rope or sling and you can directly pass you rope into theme. I also advise you to check out my "home crack", Pietra di Bismantova, where many highline meetings are made... Pritty special place in my opinion!
P. S. I love all your work on this channel, you are so inspiring and you also help me a lot to study English, thanks dude!