How to Set Up a Top Rope Anchor on Two Bolts

Learn how to set up a top rope anchor on two bolts with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association

[yoduh]

0:35 I know this isn't a "how to lead climb" video, but this is the only video I found actually showing the proper way to clip into an anchor, with the two clips overlapping, which my gym's lead climbing test requires. you wouldn't believe the number of lead climb instructional videos out there that don't even bother showing anchor clipping. new climbers don't automatically understand you're supposed to "z-clip" into the second anchor clip, so thank you for showing it :)

[johngo]

Another terrific video, good stuff. That tip at 2:25 of adding a third smaller carabiner between the two lockers at the master point was a new one.

[mkultramann]

"before your life is on the line"... Love it!

[seahoundsongs]

Could you make a video on your favorite ways to set up a top rope anchor using natural points such as a couple boulders, cracks, trees. etc. to have your anchor extended over a cliff?

[jonkrause]

Awesome! Thank you. I am a lead neophyte and the pro tips are so helpful, even though I have not practiced enough. Preparation (knowledge) is key to avoid any incidents. 🙏🤘

[tanishabailey]

I’ve climbed 100x’s but never set my own equipment!!!! My kids and my life literally depended on me getting it right. Your tutorial made so much sense!! Thank you pointing out the minuet details like opposing carabiners and even the different types with scenarios you might use the different setups.

I completely found myself I a situation I wasn’t prepared with anchor’s set waaay back but felt confident using what o learned and knew. Validating with a friend making a safe and fun first solo outing!!! Thank you!!!

[drnz]

Straight up 6 minute mini clinic! Thanks so much for this!

[johnliungman]

This is all good stuff! I have one issue, though. There is never any reason to not put screwgates at the bolts. While it may be ok to use non-lockers, especially at a multipitch stance, where you may be saving on screwgates, you should never be low on gear when setting up top-ropes. Because the anchor is unsupervised, always try to use screwgates. I don’t know why the presenter makes a point of putting non-lockers there.

[elijah_thornberry]

You all have an amazing sense of presentation.

[sil]

Im confident on all these things but I still watch these videos so I can sanity check my own methods and see the comments below. And everyone now and then you learn something epic like clipping a biner into an overhand so it can be undone more easily, you rock! thanks

[iamirali]

This was a very thorough guide for anchor building thanks

[John-wkfd]

Thank you! It makes so much sense now that I've seen it but I always wondered why you didn't clip all the ropes in a self equalizing anchor.

[PatrickPierceBateman]

Finally a quick video on how to do it.

[jordimonk]

It seems that you are always positioning the left anchor carabiner with the gate towards the rock. I would rotate it so that the gate points outwards, away from the rock, like you do with the right carabiner at 2:51

[svenmccalljr.]

With a quad anchor, I think using **the same** two strands - as opposed to different groups of two - for both lockers is the best way to do it. You still get the same safety and backup were one of the bolted anchors to fail but you don't bring into play the possibility of the lockers (under load) squishing the dyneema between each other and the anchor then not equalizing itself

[michaelyoon]

Great video. Very clear, thanks!
One piece of feedback: it wasn’t clear that the “quad” required a much longer, different sling than the first method with the sling (where you mentioned it was a 48” sling).

What length sling do you recommend for the quad?

[robmckennie]

When setting up carabiners, always make sure they're opposite, opposed, facing different ways, and other synonyms.

[AudioFreqx]

This is great data but at the end I am confused ( 5:22 )
If the 'last person climbing' is unfamiliar with cleaning an anchor; How is the 'biner retrieved without climbing back up?

[you]

Clipping the carabiners under the existing hardware prevents cross loading but creates a problem when cleaning the anchor. When the mussy hooks get loaded they pinch your anchor biners against the rock. In your cleaning video the anchor is conveniently on top of the existing hardware.

[RonaiHenrik]

1:30 I keep seeing these non-locking carabiners being used for anchors in this was. I always wonder; is it safe? Shouldn't we be using locking carabiners?