Climbing Anchors: The Girth Hitch Master Point (don't do this)

Here is some testing on the Girth Hitch Master Point (GHMP) and why you need to think twice before using it. As always application is everything,

#rockclimbing #anchor #testing

[ATimkovich]

The addition of the testing shorts was a positive. Overall a good description of the anchor with great value at the end about when/why not to use the girth hitch anchor and when it might be appropriate.

[SchmidtymeTimbers]

Always appreciate succinct / focused & detailed vids with testing data shown for real life applications!

[markusbolarkus]

Happy to see provocative content that instructs with context for viewers and challenges the trend

[chocolatedumdum]

As a structural analyst really insightful video with the data. Actually appreciate it and definitely have seen where I’ve maybe made a mistake in the past.

[fitdoc]

Huge difference in kN rating when adding the magic X. Thanks as always Karsten!

[dorkette]

Excellent video, thanks! I'd never seen the sliding-X variation and it's really interesting how well it works in comparison.

[SamuelVella]

The girth x is a handy anchor if you have limited sling length that prevents you from doing an overhand and no gear left! Quick to do too. I've used it a few times.

[hereaftermediaproductions]

Excellent video, Karsten! You summarized in one, easily digestible video what took me a half day of researching through reading various articles. Thank you!

[ralphmunn]

Clear explanation of a very... exceptional situation. We're assuming here that not only has one of your two "primary" anchor points failed, but that it did so without tightening the knot or damaging the sling. If "slip-through" is your main concern, why isn't tying a knot to equalize the forces (or otherwise distribute them in the case of unequal anchor strengths) be a better choice? I don't have access to a testing facility, so perhaps I'm missing something simple...

[TheRopeAccessChannel]

Great video and beautiful testing set up as well. That footage really drives home the point.
Thanks

[aquanaut]

I really appreciate your honesty and information

[johnliungman]

Another thought: we are very often focusing on slow pull. This is not very representative of real climbing forces, except possibly in rescue. It would be interesting to see how the same setups would behave in a drop tower! 😊

[johnliungman]

Thanks for sharing! A thought: if your main reason to use a girth hitch is that you want a top rope master point that cannot be opened, you might as well tie a big fig8, as with a normal redundant two point anchor. Then use the now isolated bottom two loops to make your girth hitch. Less simplicity, but when the use case is say rigging a top rope for kids for a day of climbing, the extra complexity is not really an issue.

[connormcgillvray]

Growing the stache and chops from scratch 🤙 thanks for the informative video !

[korbendallas]

This is a very useful piece of info. Thanks!

[shibasurfing]

I remember being taught to put the twist in one of the sides of the sling when I was a kid in boy scouts. Great to see some objective results. Thanks!

[flynryan]

Was wondering how slippy/redundant the girth actually is. Solved. Thank you

[z]

Re video and viewer comments:
- 5 min in, the logic against rings is disproven as the sling with X held beyond 20kN. The X, not the biner profile, is the most significant factor.
- Ring pluses: you can't cross-load a ring; it has no gate to open; it has no corners to snag; modern fat rings stamped with 22 kN are strong in any direction.
- Ring minuses: it has less capacity (but still likely a fat girth plus two biners) but this equates with a smaller item than the carabiner otherwise needed.
Ring +/-: a ring is often carried anyhow for a rap scenario, otherwise goes unused; using for master point frees up a carabiner.
- older methods with equalizing sliders, giant wadded figure eights, etc. can be hard to untie, re-equalize, and overthinking loads and equalizing has been largely found to be ineffective and even introduces greater shock loads when one anchor fails.
- balancing the directional loads into the girth when building is sufficient to provide "equalizing, " as loss of any strand just moves more load to the remainder, without any sliding or shock.

- the beauty of the girth is its easy adjustment and high final strength with the X added; more complexities are superfluous and not needed.
- clove hitches do not behave in the same fashion, in slippery Dyneema type fibers, and may not provide the same final strength; many test videos show this.

[rockclimbinghacks]

Very interesting. The girth-x is isomorphic to the girth hitch, but the loading of the strands exiting the knot is different. It's like the difference between the edk and the water knot - isomorphic knots, but the different loading makes a world of difference to the slippage. I wonder if that's enough for dyneema cord or the new bd slings. Anyway I'm sold, it's easy enough to do for a little extra reassurance.

[pascaljeancoudert]

Good vidéo.. thanks you
Question : it will work with a cordelet 7mm.. ?