The Three Anchors I use in Rock Climbing #climbing #knot #rockclimbing

[noahschoenbeck]

With the girth hitch master point, are you not worried about the integrity of the sling you're using? Just based on how thin it is.

[Marshal_Diomitus]

Beginner here, quick question: is there a rule to follow for knowing exactly where to use locking vs. non-locking carabiners?

[patricksomervaille]

The last is redundant but won’t it shock load if one end does blow?

[steventhaw]

for the Safest, Strongest, Fastest, and Most Efficient anchor, Please refer to Brent Peters' 2 youtube videoS: "CLOVE HITCH FOR ANCHORS" !!!

[jacobelder]

Are those overhand knots able to be untied after use?

[erikpeterson]

Is this girth hitch master point redundant?

[markp]

I have 2 concerns about this.

1) The knot in the sling dramatically reduces its strength. Particularly in dyneema. This is shown in a HowKnot2 video where it goes from 18KN straight failure to 8.4KN knotted failure.

I'm also concerned about the redundancy of the girth hitch should one anchor fail. Maybe I'm mistaken, but it looks like if one anchor fails, it pulls through relatively easily as it starts quite wide. Girth hitches on a bar or rope slide until tight. I tested it with a second loop so it's almost a prussic and ita a bit better. My concern is that if one end is quite short, it will pull through.

It looks okay if you're concerned about an anchor walking like it does with a sliding X.

But I had a look and none of these are in my British climbing and mountaineering manual. However putting a knot in a sling is in the manual as something to avoid.

The only time it shows a knot in a sling is an emergency descending and ascending method when other equipment wasn't available. Or as a prussic with backup when taking in rope to create slack so you can join two ropes together for emergency lowering of unconscious climbers.

[baranakin]

Why clip on just a single strand on the last one?

[crakilldurmom]

I'm really not a big fan of those overhand knots in your anchor. Sure you probably still have "enough" of a shock rating left and other gear would likely fail before that sling but dude.... 50%. I was taught 50% of your protection goes out the window with an overhand knot.

[luisgerardollamasgutierrez]

Don't see the point of the x if you'll girth hitch... 🤔

[holstblock.web]

I'm not an expert; however, I recently learned that an evenly distributed anchor point is not the safest. And rather, you should use an anchor that has a series of anchor points. One which carries the main weight, and then a backup, which would hold if the first one fails. Are you getting into that @summitseekersexperience?

[vincentayrault]

You want redundancy? Use two sling, period.

[GeneRosellini]

A simple sliding x with a nylon or dyneema sling is better than all of these and doesn't compromise strength with knots.

[HntrCmp]

You dont clip metal to the wrap wrings
Big no no