How NOT to Trad Climb

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Sun came out, so we went climbing. This is a start to finish example of a traditional or "trad" climb with some thoughts given along the way. Trad climbing is where you have to place your own "pro" or protection and in this video we used cams which is actively placed pro as opposed to nuts and hexes that are placed in constrictions passively.

Thank you for the fun day outside Bobby Hutton, Mike Rogers @wolf_in_the_weeds, and TJ Gillick.
Edited by: Taylor Pike

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Multi-pitch, watch it again. Rappelling, watch it in reverse. Caving, watch it in reverse in the dark.

jarodlojeck
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Proud daddy moment. My 11 year old daughter walked in while watching intro and went wide eyed and exasperated face. I asked her what she thought was wrong and she flat out said, "too much gear".

davidkoch
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Yes, I would definitely like to see more climbing content. Potentiality some more videos on aid climbing and big walling

Kbowma
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A multi-pitch video is exactly what I need. YouTube "tutorials" are always just a short vid of two guides messing around with ropes at the base of a pitch followed by some elaborate anchor-building. I'd love to see an actual multi-pitch climb explained.

Kvathe
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Seeing the whole climb and you struggle is quality content. I can't relate to fearless pros.

saxtonhine
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Love the beginning. Hey! Thanks for all you do. As a... Not new climber? But more actively involved climber... I appreciate all the education you put out. I have been learning a lot, and I appreciate it. I learn a lot from those I climb with, but I also learn a ton from those who climb elsewhere. So thanks for all the effort y'all put into this

climbing
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Love seeing your unedited nerves on that ultra classic. As a longtime trad climber who’s still scared of trad climbing it’s refreshing to see you nervous, even after all the time you spend off the ground! More videos!

jesseclarke
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Yes more climbing videos! I think you could fill a niche that hasn’t been filled out in YouTube videos so far. Something like: climbing reality: the stuff they don’t normally teach you, could bring comedy and show more realistic climbing experiences. Like how belaying from above kind of sucks and is uncomfortable sometimes, ****ropes getting tangled on multi pitch climbing***, climbing and getting scared, placing gear and risk management.

I think there is some value in watching you guys climbing a route, making jokes, making decisions, while not particularly being good at it will bring connections to a wider audience. then you can also have videos bringing in other people doing different methods.

heywoodlittle
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10:55 - YES!!! La Sportiva Mythos & Socks! Been climbing like that for over 3 decades! Thank you Ryan. I don't feel alone anymore.

TileStonePro
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I love it -- it's great to see reasonable routes, as well. Everyone is out there doing 5.13's, and I can barely get off the couch.

zachschmidt
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I would add 4 parts that are critically important to placing Cam & Nut equipment.
1) strategizing the correct piece for the placement by size and width: I personally accomplish this by using my fingers to measure the crack and then bringing my fingers down to the appropriate cam or nut as a measurement of the crack of half of the Cam for correct placement.
2) placing the cam at the correct angle of the falling whip: this helps ensure that when you fall on the Cam, it is place at the angle in which your body will be after you fall.
3) Stop cams from walking inward or changing angles: Using long sling for extenders for deeply placed Cam's or changing directions will create different angles and allow the cam to walk in word. (ie. that Cam would not have unclipped self when the second climber was flicking the rope around to get it off the rock)
4) setting the cam, once placed, is pretty awesome. So that placement doesn't move or walk around after you leave that location .

otherwise the beginning parody of bringing too much gear and having a shitty belay was hilarious.

*sidenote
Chest harnesses can be very helpful for equipment management because when you lean back-and-forth all your gear throws your weight around as it slides on slings under your armpits not to mention the chokehold on your neck. Where as chest harnesses have gear loops that keep the gear exactly placed where it's clipped because your chest harness gear loops do not slide/move the gear as you shift your weight balance.

bonus tip*
both climber should be tied in with the figure 8 before they start the route. This prevents any ropes from extending up past the following climber as the rope is pulled up!

🌺 Aloha Life 🌴

mowgliadventuresnet
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Rappeling with saddlebag ropes would be a sweet video. also rope management for multi pitch switch overs/swinging leads. Awesome content!

jumpmaniaccrazy
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Nice! Another reason for the follower to be tied in before you start is that you can buddy check the whole system. Buddy checks are jolly good.

ehgeese
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I know the exact route on that crag you’re on in “tahoe area”. Props to you for carrying the gear up that approach.

kevinbenevides
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In the pre-barcode era, price tags were often glued directly onto the item and I generally didn't remove them. At the sort-out at the end of the climb, I would look for the tattered remnants of the price tag to spot my gear, and I didn't have to add paint or tape or some other mark to help me identify my gear. On the one hand the extra weight was never an impediment, and on the other I didn't waste any time or add any weight in order to personalize my hardware.

professorsogol
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I couldn't stop laughing for that intro section 😂

termivan
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What a great authentic, entertaining, and informative video.

nickvehive
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That intro tho! 😂 “I ended up leaving the tags on there....don’t think the extra weight is gonna get me”

UNPAVEDTV
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Please, make videos about stuff *you* are stoked about.

But yes, I'd love to see more climbing videos. 🧗⛰️

beginna
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Absolutely amazing video, actually LOLed during the intro. Would love to see more climbing videos.

danielchristopher