HEAT SHRINK SOLDER WIRE SPLICE #shorts

Installing a waterproof LED strip you often need to extend and join the wires. In this video, we use a heat-shrinkable solder sleeve. We then oversleeve the joint with an adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

Robus Macau COB LED Strip -

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#efixx #shorts

[darrenowen]

I seem to remember these being used on aircraft. They were called Raychem joints, and the heat gun with the curved deflector was a Raychem gun.
I don't remember whether the cables were laid side by side or butted up, but they weren't twisted together.

[pn]

Good thing you twisted it, its probably stronger than the solder used in these things, and creates a better connection. The solder probably hasn't even flowed through 90% of the copper there.

[robertroy]

I trim the stranded ends to the same width as the solder ring on each cable then it allows the solder to be more concentrated and fill the strands rather then flowing across 10mm of outer copper. Always worked well for me these

[cornwallonline]

If you care to cut through these after soldering (as in test pieces), you'll often find the solder has barely penetrated the strands!

[rob]

To be honest I don't trust these types of connectors.
In my opinion melting solder inside heat shrink tubing is NO GO.
My concern is (if too much heat is applied) the melted solder inside heat shrink tubing can damage the heat shrink tubing and eventually cause the heat shrink tubing to fail and cause a short circuit.
On the other hand (if less heat applied) the solder may not melt completely and cause bad connections.
I would rather use crimp connectors instead of these.

[chriscook]

These can work well for low voltage/current connections especially where you need to get some weather proofing.

Like with any soldered joint, you need to observe some points:
1. Expose some fresh, clean, bright copper - tarnished copper doesn't solder well as the corrosion stops the heat transfer
2. don't twist the wires too tightly - leave a gap for the solder (capillary action etc)
3. Don't over or under heat it. if you under heat it, the plastic can melt before the solder does.
4. make sure no wires are sticking out sideways, otherwise this can pierce the heatshrink.

As others have mentioned, these don't often come with a voltage or current rating, but I've used them to repair door access systems where the standard red butt crimps don't grip the fine wire. So far, I've not been called back to that job. Thin wires are where these excel.

For 5 and 12 volt systems they are fine. If there is a problem with mechanical stress, then you need to fix that, no matter what connection type you use.

[harry_vrs]

You’re not supposed to twist the cores and instead let them interlace

[DrGenestealer]

It really doesn't look as if the solder temperature got high enough to fully wick into the strands!

[CalmeRyowl]

Are these allowed by regs? I have used them for automotive applications and I wouldn't even be too trusting of them there.

[ElectricianTV]

Blimey they look dangerous I totally agree with @jez why not do crimped version.

[tiernanoneill]

Keep it up l like seeing all the new gadgets they make the job so much easier

[Wintersky]

Very good, but the middle portion of the joint has to melt… meaning the solder has to melt!

[GrahamDIY]

Used these two weeks ago to extend the cable on my palm router to 4m with flex. Did exactly as you showed here. I’ve used them before. They seem “too cheap” but have always worked well for me 🤷🏻‍♂️

I wouldn’t bury this stuff in a wall/floor (not sure what regs say) but for a slim inline connection, like the one I needed, they work really well.

Note: normally I’d take the router to bits and replace the full length with flex but it was just back from repair shop with sticker for warranty. I can always put plug back on at original length if I need to send it in for repair again etc..

[robertbreen]

extra low voltage applications, just like the one in the video, these will be fine.

[fitmydashcam]

OPEN BARREL SPLICE.

Far better than soldering, as it’s vibration resistant and doesn’t need heat. Heat shrink over it, and it’s done.

[jankcitycustoms]

tired these things out a few times on some old equipment & trailers. while I never had one fail I just have no confidence. probably because they look horrendous; like a sack of potatoes that was beaten with a bat. mostly because to flow the solder the thing has to be so hot the tube turns to putty. works great on small guage wire though.

[scabthecat]

Is the connector and heat shrink comparable to basic insulation and sheathing? There is a 6mm connector in the pack. For 230v 40 A? Might just stick to the little ones.

[ColinRichardson]

Where did you get the wrap around attachment for you heat gun? I got nothing like that when I purchased mine, and it would be useful.

[timowen]

Are these made to a standard? I have seen them on the CPC website but the data sheet makes no reference to a BS EN or CE or UKCA

[JezCunningham]

Would you use this (or a crimp version) to extend T&E cores when replacing a CU?