Heat Shrink Self-Solder Butt Splice Connectors

[chrisk]

I used these for years in the Navy on the A-7-E and F/A-18A. They found, just like any soldered connection, that a dry soldered joint was possible and discontinued use of them. They work great for automotive applications.

[ThangPham-olfy]

Your intro is so long and annoying. 15s just for reving engine.

[johnshaft]

I have messed around with these things on automotive projects. They work OK, but I still prefer crimped butt connectors covered with glue lined heat shrink. One of the things that always bothered me about these was the clear heat shrink covering. It always looked like the heat shrink had failed and wire strands were uncovered. Not sure this ever happened, but you cannot tell as it is a clear material.

As others have said, it cracks me up that Summit is portraying these as new technology. They have been around for a very long time.

Not talking trash about these devices though. They do work....I just don't think they are quite as good as the crimp connector/heat shrink route. They are no faster or easier to use. Brilliant solution to a non-existent problem.

[cbmech]

I'm a trash truck mechanic and this "seems" like a good idea but I would have liked to see the heat shrink cut off to see the solder . A pull test would have been nice too .

[andersensean]

Set heat gun to 280 if you have a digital, start in the middle and wait for solder to flow, then drop the temp to 200 and work to the outsides. Got a universal heat gun to solder nozzle drop down for 3 bucks on ebay.


When working in limited spaces these will really shine, still do it the old fashioned way when there's room to with an original weller gun.

[colincrooky]

We had them in the 1960’s in the British army. They were copper on the outside with a sulphur blob ( like a match) that was struck with a striker strip. The wires were put in both ends, struck and left to cool - the copper on the outside was insulated from the wires.

[Metal_seer]

Nifty idea. Handy for locations where it's hard to use a soldrring iron. Temperamental.With the brand I used, the full sized air gun with defkector melted the adhesive too much before the solder flowed. I eneded up buying a $38 palm-sized butand air gun to finish melting the solder without damaging the adhesive rings. They work good enough.

[mandelaeffect]

This is gonna make all my vehicle wiring mods much easier and look cleaner

[twcaldwell]

I worked for years for local government in fleet management, one of the parts guys let KAR products talk him into some of these self soldering heat shrink connectors. Sounds like a great idea and certainly speeded up certain repairs. However, the solder has a low melting point to keep from overheating the shrink sleeve material and destroying it, the solder does not flow well into the wire connection and over a period of time the splice fails and creates a failure. Makes for a difficult diagnosis some times. I think they are no better than the scotch locks that gives mechanics fits. After about a year of using these connectors, both the self-solder and scotch locks were banned from our shop. Just can't beat the old style crimp connectors or using regular solder and shrink sleeve to insulate it. I apologize for bashing your product, but in my opinion, this causes more problems than it fixes.

[petechilton]

We called these Delray connectors when I worked on the road. Really like these for good solid water tight connect

[stockton]

Should I let it cool down before I touch it?

[laurencemiltonbell]

I've used another brand of these and they kind of work. The solder connection is like a cold solder joint. I cut the solder joint and noted penetration but when I flexed the soldered wires with pliers, the solder just flaked off the wires. That never happens with regular old 60/40 unless there's other issues that cause a cold solder joint. I always judge a repair as "good" if I can say that I would I'd fix my moms car that way. I would never use these on my moms car.

[digimon]

That is actually super clean. The heat shrink holds the solder in to melt to the correct wire gauge.

[simonbaxter]

These have been used in the aviation industry for 40 years! You should use a curved shield on the end on the heat gun to ensure it is heated all the way round evenly and you dont need to turn the cable either ... which may be difficult to do in a confined space or loom.

[denniss]

I mean, it’s a great idea for those who don’t appreciate a good Solder job.. And you have money to afford these things.

Soldering is one of the most satisfying things you can do.

[spudth]

I tried this today for the first time. I have to note that (as with ordinary heat shrink tubing) you must be careful of stray wires. I had a stray wire poke through the insulation. To be sure, I checked it with an ohm meter after the heating. yup, stray wire poked through the clear tubing. I think you may need to start with a heat gun as suggested so the shrink tubing doesn't get too hot.

[TheOriginalSycHolic]

coming from summit, you'd think ya recommend something with an aviation splice due to G forces. the low temp solder is nice but the whole splice is 'weak' and you cant tell if you have a 'cold joint' issue (flux and adhesion is still critical even at low temps...) rather use an iron and tubing and do it the normal way. Should sell the tubes in kits with the sealer. that would nice to have already done without having to pack ends with silicone before shrinking.

[johnwallace]

I think summit racing is the tops. Your service is the best. Wish you could come to Canada so we could by pass those Canadian duties. Will still use your service regardless. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.

[TheOctopusPirateShow]

Nice, but don't forget that heating should be applied from one side to another (like, left-center-right), to ensure the air goes out. This way it'll be more durable and last longer

[robertburns]

I used them on my Ariel wire as I had rain water coming down to the tv. Worked . Saved me £280.