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Samsung refrigerator grinding and freeze up fix, one that actually works!
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This is a video to show you how to fix your Samsung "SamDUNG" refrigerator freeze up issue. If your fridge is freezing up approximately every 3 weeks to a month then this is your fix.
This fix assumes the following:
1) The defrost heating element is good.
2) There are no physical damages, cracks, etc. that could allow humid air into the fridge.
3) That you've already installed the aftermarket drain fix.
4) That your fridge has refrigerant and doesn't have a leak.
5) That the evaporator fan is good.
6) That the temperature probe is good.
7) That your defrost control board is good.
8) That your back cover isn't damaged. Make sure the styrofoam is in good shape.
If all of the above are good and your fridge still freezes up this is the fix for you.
The issue is the factory foam tape is garbage and doesn't sufficiently seal the evaporator coil from the rest of the fridge. When this happens, humid air gets in the coil and freezes which causes the fan to begin grinding. Then soon after, the fan will freeze in place. Then the cooling stops and your food will spoil.
Most people try moving sensors around but it doesn't work. Keep all of that in its original place. The problem is when humid air keeps leaking into the coils, The defrost logic board doesn't know how to handle it. It will attempt to run a defrost cycle by heating up the heating element. But when that doesn't completely work, the logic in the defrost board times out. At that point the only way to defrost the fridge is a manual defrost cycle or unplugging the fridge and plugging it back it. But none of that matters because when you have a leak, the defrost system in this fridge simply cannot keep up. So the objective here is to seal that evaporator coil system completely. Take great care to not let any wires hang out the side of the cover when installing it. Place silicon in areas that look like they need it for a good seal. Also in the video I believe I mentioned that I did not add foam tape to the top portion of the cover, but I actually did. Also as mentioned in the video make sure you take the drain tube out and let it hang over the side and drain onto your floor (assuming you have tile flooring), that way you can see if your defrost system is working during this process. Once you are satisfied that it is, you can put it back.
This has been a nightmare for me and I have come extremely close to throwing this fridge out several times. But I believe that I finally have this issue resolved. My fridge is going on nearly 2 months and no issues at all. I watch it "pee" daily which means all is working well. Soon I will button everything back up and try and forget about it and hope that it continues to work.
Good luck!
This fix assumes the following:
1) The defrost heating element is good.
2) There are no physical damages, cracks, etc. that could allow humid air into the fridge.
3) That you've already installed the aftermarket drain fix.
4) That your fridge has refrigerant and doesn't have a leak.
5) That the evaporator fan is good.
6) That the temperature probe is good.
7) That your defrost control board is good.
8) That your back cover isn't damaged. Make sure the styrofoam is in good shape.
If all of the above are good and your fridge still freezes up this is the fix for you.
The issue is the factory foam tape is garbage and doesn't sufficiently seal the evaporator coil from the rest of the fridge. When this happens, humid air gets in the coil and freezes which causes the fan to begin grinding. Then soon after, the fan will freeze in place. Then the cooling stops and your food will spoil.
Most people try moving sensors around but it doesn't work. Keep all of that in its original place. The problem is when humid air keeps leaking into the coils, The defrost logic board doesn't know how to handle it. It will attempt to run a defrost cycle by heating up the heating element. But when that doesn't completely work, the logic in the defrost board times out. At that point the only way to defrost the fridge is a manual defrost cycle or unplugging the fridge and plugging it back it. But none of that matters because when you have a leak, the defrost system in this fridge simply cannot keep up. So the objective here is to seal that evaporator coil system completely. Take great care to not let any wires hang out the side of the cover when installing it. Place silicon in areas that look like they need it for a good seal. Also in the video I believe I mentioned that I did not add foam tape to the top portion of the cover, but I actually did. Also as mentioned in the video make sure you take the drain tube out and let it hang over the side and drain onto your floor (assuming you have tile flooring), that way you can see if your defrost system is working during this process. Once you are satisfied that it is, you can put it back.
This has been a nightmare for me and I have come extremely close to throwing this fridge out several times. But I believe that I finally have this issue resolved. My fridge is going on nearly 2 months and no issues at all. I watch it "pee" daily which means all is working well. Soon I will button everything back up and try and forget about it and hope that it continues to work.
Good luck!
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