You’re Installing the Wrong USB Socket! Here’s Why…

Choosing the right USB socket outlet can be overwhelming with so many options out there. From power ratings to finishes, the decisions can seem endless!

In this video, we’ll break down everything you need to know about selecting the perfect USB socket outlet for your space. Should you go for the highest power rating, or are there cases where less is more? 🤔

===================
Time Stamps ⏱
00:00 There's so many choices when it comes to USB sockets
00:56 You might not be fully benefiting from higher rated sockets
01:35 Understanding customer habits is key!
03:15 Other power consumption situations to consider
04:00 BG socket outlets are great for wide range of uses
===================

#sockets #electricians #electricalinstallation

[videocouk]

It would really help if manufacturers of these sockets had an isolation switch to disable the charger electronics when not in use. Being powered 24/7, they will have a relatively short life. And when they fail, well it could end badly such as over heating in a wall space, exploding capacitors or other dangerous or unpleasant failure modes.

[CreepyCrawly-xyiw]

I prefer stand-alone chargers. You can plug it into whatever socket available, anywhere. No need to install multiple USB sockets.

[arrebarre]

Some things don't charge at all on the lower power ratings but anything will charge on the higher ones. Cheaping out on the socket could be more expensive in the long run because you'll just have to get a power adapter when something doesn't work.

[AndyFletcherX]

How many of these integrated USB chargers will be still be functional in 20 years? Most wall sockets last 20 - 30 years without being replaced.

[Keeping_IT_Simple]

how much power do the transformers in these sockets use when nothing is plugged into USB??

I would like to see a physical switch for the USB socket as well so that is not in use it can be turned off

[MadSpacePig]

No mention of charging protocols? It's all well and good saying only install a 'high power' charger if your device supports that amount, but might still not work if your device doesn't support the protocol it's using. Most new devices are using USB-PD now, which most of these sockets are designed for, but there's still plenty out there that aren't.

[MarcusNailor]

Always hated the concept of a USB socket but have grown to love them for convenient charging without 'wasting' a space for another appliance to plug in.

[sergiofernandez]

Good video Joe. It is also worth mentioning the the type of USB-C cable used is important.

USB C cables can have variations in speed, power, and protocol capabilities. Additionally there are different length requirements to watch out for. When in doubt, buy cables from the device manufacturer.

A USB C cable with 3.1 Gen 2 capabilities vs one with 2.0 can mean a vast difference in data transfer. For example, two cable types transferring the same HD movie can take vastly different times:

3.1 Gen 2 takes 5 seconds at 10 Gbps
2.0 takes 1.7 min at 480 MBps


All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 20V 3A, but can also carry high-power 20V 5A current.

For cables with up to 3A and 5A delivery, they can be used for

Charging USB type C enabled devices such as cell phones and tablets.
Transferring photos and music between devices.

The biggest difference between 3A and 5A cables is 5A cables can generally power laptops and monitors while 3A cables cannot.

[rfitzgerald]

I'd recommend go for the higher one in all cases, the price difference is negligible and with modern devices requiring more and more power over time you'll be slightly future proofing yourself at the same time. USB-PD support up to 12v is crucial, 20v support is a bonus for laptops, many sockets on the market even with the USB-C output don't necessarily support PD

[mikeselectricstuff]

Permanently installing electronics like this in the wall is such a stupid idea

[mernokimuvek]

I prefer having a classic socket and just plug in a charger.

[therealdojj]

I plugged in a wireless charger pad which charges really slowly but I can let it do it's thing overnight and not worry 👍

[brianwood]

Great video, Joe. But why post a video, which refers you to another video at the end. But the linked video is not shown?

[rickthescrewballpeacekeepe]

There is sonething important missing from all this which determines what the charge rate is, it's the cable itself, most are not capable of going past 1A before the power supply has to ramp things down.
Most devices have a charge controller built in to measure the incoming voltage, thinner cable will result in less voltage at higher current.

[Reprogrammed_By_SEGA]

Installing a USB socket into a wall is just wrong in the first place.

[danohanlon]

Now that it’s common to see USB sockets integrated with regular house current sockets, it’s time isolate that integration by making the USB component an upgradable module.

[markpapp]

Is 45W really enough for a laptop - I think you need to double that for many, and have 60W for the rest.

I'm happy to be proved wrong on this one!

[stuartwilliams]

Just get the higher wattage outlet, you should also fit a 47mm deep back box . These outlets die because of heat !

[TheBaldOne]

I have a couple of these around the house but I don't use them to charge devices because they are not supposed to be used for that. I use them to power stuff like USB lamps, USB air quality sensors, USB air purifiers, etc..

Phones and laptops I charge with proper chargers rated to charge at the spec currents. Normally I use the provided chargers but I have a couple of those Anker/Ugreen desktop chargers both on my desk and the coffee.

[dieseldragon]

Like anybody else I charge stuff via USB, but since these entered the market one thing that's always bothered me about them is the fact each has its own local switching PSU that draws a load whether providing USB charging or not, and I wonder how many KWh/MWh the UK burns away in parasitic load every day through stuff like this. It's why my preferred solution is a wall-wart plugged into a switched outlet that's turned on _only_ when a device is being charged. 😇

My present plan for the next time I need a full re-wire - And it's close; Mine's now 40 years old, though it passed the last EICR - Is to incorporate a separate USB supply ring alongside the renewed 240v mains (Appropriately shielded) driven initially by a power bank, with that being charged as required by a wall-wart that's only connected to mains voltage when required. 👍

In this way - Though I might lose the odd watt or two to resistive losses through the wiring - I'm hoping to keep the losses from USB device charging down to a minimum and improve efficiency. Both the environment and my wallet will thank me for that, with my supply now costing over 60p/kWh despite how unaffordable that is for a person in my circumstances... 🌻♿⚡💸🏚

.oO(Energy „regulator“, my 🍑!)

BTW, a *tip* for extending device lifespan; Beyond adopting the „80/20“ charging regime (Or even the „70/30“, if you can accommodate that) the _slower_ you recharge the battery the less stress it experiences and the slower its decay in-service. For this reason I try to recharge devices on 500mA (2, 5W) or 1A (5W) chargers whenever possible, and reserve the use of 10W and higher chargers for emergency use only. If you can get a reliable 500mA charger (Be *very* careful of the ones that tend to fall out of eBay and Temu packages!) try using _that_ for overnight device charging, and see if your battery health starts to improve from it! 👍

I have devices over a decade old - With their original batteries - That are _still_ giving near-new battery lifespan even to this day! 😇