Trad Anchor Systems

Jason Schmaltz (AMGA Rock Guide Apprentice) shows multiple different trad anchor systems that can be used in multipitch or single pitch climbing applications. This is great if you are a lead trad climber or lead sport climber trying to get into bigger rock climbing objectives
#climbing #tradclimbing #rockclimbing

0:00 - Intro
0:17 - Three Point Anchor System
4:59 - Four Point Anchor System
8:23 - Quad Anchor System
13:22 - Girth Hitch Anchor System

[Sicnus]

"If you have more than 4 people in your multi-pitch route you may wanna ask yourself a few other questions." lmao. Love me some Jason.

[vinceburris]

I really appreciate you taking the time to bring us these educational videos. Have a great week.

[robertbaeza]

Sincerely thank you for these free knowledge classes as you have been my main source of learning outdoor as I don't have a trad dad.

[mastheadmike]

That board is pretty darn slick. Love it. With a pretty frame around it maybe I could convince the wife to make it a piece of wall art that is also functional.

[geneo]

I like your instructions keep up the good work .

[chriskaplan]

Great and educational video! Thank you Jason!

[rgr]

clove hitch to keep sewn tab out of the way... love it!

[gergomeister]

Thank you for your videos! Great content!

[NicolasH]

Great videos and great channel!! Thank you!

[HarryT]

Hey, thank you for your videos I've been going through them 1 by 1 as I've just discovered them! I was mainly taught to build trad anchor systems using the rope and clove hitching them to a HMS attached to my figure 8 loop on my harness. Is this a less optimum method or is it more preference? Thanks again

[arnoldkotlyarevsky]

The girth hitch masterpoint is actually safer than it seems. The magic x is unnecessary because it only accounts for the exceedingly rare situation where one leg of the anchor becomes unclipped from the carabiner - which should never happen in a multipitch scenario as the anchor should be weighted or at least in tension at all times. If the leg has the carabiner in it but the cams (or bolt) it is clipped to fails, the carabiner will always act as a stop against the leg slipping through the girth hitch. Only in the scenario of a leg getting cut is a leg slipping through the girth hitch a possibility and in that case the magic x does nothing.

In fact, it is the slipping of the girth hitch that actually increases the safety as it adds some capacity for absorbing fall forces. I have defaulted to using only two anchor configurations for all of my climbing - the bowline on a bight anchor and the girth hitch anchor. These anchors are super comprehensive for most scenarios that I have found, and since I exclusively use dyneema slings, their ability to be untied after loading is very nice.

[NeilStrongarms]

Hey Jason,
Thanks for all the videos you make! I've learned a lot from you.
Question: correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you take an ATC / Reverso and a Grigri when multipitch climbing, right? Have you considered something like an Edelrid Gigajul that also has an autoblocking mode, so you only have one device? If so, why do you prefer taking the two devices?

[mattnhays]

Subscribed! Amazingly informative videos! Can you give me the plans for the trad anchor board? I live in Kansas and not many places to practice placing gear. Thank you.

[jacobkantor]

You can get better equalization on a 4piece quad by connecting each piece with adjustable clove hitches

[poolplayerbrian]

Nice board! I was considering making something similar for strength training instead of buying plastic pieces . What king of glue did you use?

[GeoffreyGonzales]

swamp anchor is good with a single. bowline on a bight too

[danielgockerell]

Hey man thanks for the video. I was wondering if you’ve climbed Whiteside in NC. It looks like some fun and pretty hairy multi pitch. Was hoping there’s a doable 5.9ish there that’s popular and fun. Please let me know. Thanks bro.

[wagnerpizza]

Hi there, just wondering why you clip the alpine quickdraw in with the carabiners and not just use the sling? Usually I try to avoid clipping non locking carabiners into each other in case of some rattling or whatever. (:

[MrAchile]

Hello! What technique would you recommend for traversing exposed horizontal terrain? So far I've seen people either connected to the rope with a sling and a carabiner or tied in directly to the rope using a butterfly knot.

[benegesserit]

Thank you, but what I seem to miss:
I can see how this will hold a fall when you made the lead and belay the other climber below you. Now; when your partner overtakes and starts leading, and then takes a fall, the force will go up, right? Won't those cams and friends come out as they are placed for downward force?