Advanced Climbing Anchors: Efficient 3 Piece Systems

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[logiconabstractions]

Is there a link to the blog post about equalization?

[johngo]

The V clove is GREAT! Never seen that one before.

[drclimb]

Great video thanks!

Be very cautious when loading single strands of a high tensile knotted material as done with the V-clove. Most recent analysis has shown that they can break (see article about sling breaks in bergundsteigen, #107)

[fragletemmer]

Good stuff. I will also give a shout out to the 'clove hitch anchor', not often seen but has become my go to.

[homefront]

For years I have wanted to climb, I spent my life climbing telephone poles with no "safety". I am fascinated with rigging for climbing and love all, these videos. thanks

[maxe]

Great video, but lmao 4:50 "you're gone"... The delivery was so deep, this guy needs to become an actor

[haphaeu]

quads are only quick to set-up if you're lucky and don't have to re-adjust the position of the limiting knots. to really reduce extension to a minimum you need those limiting knots to be as close together as possible, then you end up having to adjust them every time... that's why I don't bother with quads and go for the typical w set-up, which all taken in consideration is super good enough and the fastest to do and undo...

[automatc]

Everyone read John longs climbing anchors book! Will change your life and show you how to be significantly safer.

[juanmartiniglesias]

Hi there! Really interesting and useful video. Thanks!
I have a question though, why I don't ser the use of a dinamic rope instead of a dyneema or nylon? Will a dinamic rope absorb part of a shock? Are there cons that I can't see?

[paulsommer]

Hi. Great Video. I guess Using a shelf for placing your rappeling device a.s.o. is very Common, but still i dont See The big Advantage, except having a more organised anchor. I mean that in Case of emergency, Bad weather etc i'd fear to Take The wrong shelf.... So i'd prefer to Put everything in The Central Point.... Or do i miss Something ... Best from Austria!

[isaacbernstein]

For your 3rd example of the sliding X anchor, the two piece component has a masterpoint, meaning that it is a critical junction. From my understanding, that should be a locker. Which in the end ups the gear count, but instead of using two slings and a locker, you could just make a 3 point quad and save material. Also, if concerned about whether or not the two piece component pieces blow, you may want to consider tying limiter knots, otherwise all of you weight gets loaded onto the "strongest" piece and you end up shock loading the other piece. Lastly, I know that this video is demonstration for different practices used in the field, and I understand that there aren't necessarily "set standards" about where you need lockers and whatnot. Just some things that popped into my head as I was watching. Great video though, I've never seen the V Clove before, definitely using that one!

[OhMiggeee]

Is it better to attach your dynamic PAS on your belay loop like shown or in your tie in points?

[somanayr]

At around 4:00, is it a concern that all of the pieces use the same flake? If that flake blows, all 3 pieces could go too

[curvenut]

Question about non locking biners used on the protections.
Since you are not using locking biners on the protections in the video, is it officially an accepted way of building anchor ?

IMHO, it is an acceptable way to build TRAD anchor only since on trad anchors climbers are near of the anchor and can immediatly see if something wrong.
As opposed to top rope anchor that need to be with locking biners since it is left alone.

note: BTW, I half the times used not locking biners to build my trad anchors but friends sometines freak out.

[lynettereid]

A question about the third anchor. I’ve seen the same setup in other videos but I wonder if the use of the sliding x is optimal. If one of the two left pieces fail, the entire load goes to the right—it’s not going to be shared by two pieces, because the extensibility of the sliding x is beyond the knot on the quad. Couldn’t you make that a fixed point with a knot and still have the quad making it multidirectional?

[sarahshiplee]

In your quad with a magic x, could you not make this better by putting load limiting knots in the sling with the magic X and also by moving your load limiting knots closer together on the quad so that there is less extension should a piece fail and therefore less force applied in the case that it does fail? Particularly the limiting knot on the right side of the quad doesn't seem like it needs to be that high.

[aleksei--ptru]

Hello again!
So I continue to translate this awesome material! I have met a problem with expression "close to the bar tack"
Josh said this when he was putting a clove hitch in the first piece of the V-Clove.
What does it mean - "bar tack"??

[Sendboi]

On the quad anchor isn't there two points of extension? If the right blows like you showed there's extension but even more on the sliding x side, if that blows you get extension there and extension at the master point. Why even do a sliding x? It's already pre equalized at the master point? Wouldn't it make more sense to add an over hand to avoid shock loading the left side of one point fails?

[pascaljutras]

does 15 inches of dynamic rope dissipate enough energy ?

[curvenut]

Could you elaborate your thought on the equalette ?