How To Clean and Lower on a Sport Climb

[CodyBradford]

Hello everyone. Thank you for all of your dialogue and the responses to my video. First, I would like to apologize for not responding promptly. I run an instagram page that takes up most of my time. Please reach me there if you would like! Next, it seems as though there is a trend of concern about this tip regarding lowering from fixed anchors, so lets address that here. Please read before you comment. Lowering in a single pitch environment is statistically safer than rappelling. More accidents and especially more deaths have occurred from rappelling at single pitch crags. See Accidents in North American Mountaineering for more information. This is due to the increased number of steps as well as the transition from one system to another for rappelling. Lowering in this way means staying in the same system the whole time. Another reason to lower is that in most areas of the country, there are climbing organizations or individuals taking care of these crags. If you are in an area where this is not true, do it yourself! Removing worn hardware and replacing it is extremely easy with modern, climbing rated quick links and rings. In my view, it is a very entitled stance to suggest one should always rappel just because you are unwilling to fix the hardware yourself or donate to an organization that does. With all of that said, if you want to rappel, please do! I would never suggest to anyone that they should always lower or never rappel. I don't really believe in "always" and "never". That is not what this channel is about. There are times, however, when there is reason to rappel. In the case of private property, a land owner may prefer you rappel, although this is rarely the case. Take Muir Valley in the Red River Gorge as one example. Another reason you may decide to rappel is that the configuration of the anchor may viciously twist your rope when lowering. This often happens when there are two bolts, 6+" apart with only a ring per hanger, meaning your rope must travel a horizontal distance before coming out of the other side. Finally, areas such as Indian Creek or other desert sandstone areas may have a culture of rappelling to avoid damaging the fragile rock that the rope will interact with. In those cases, it is definitely suggested to rappel! Apart from these however, many single pitch crags (especially in the western US) are beginning to sprout mussy hooks or steel carabiners on fixed anchors, encouraging lowering from the top. My hope is that with enough communal effort, this becomes the norm at most crags. Thank you for making it this far in my diatribe, and I hope we may connect further on my Instagram page, @thecodybradford. Cheers!

[emailkuan]

This is the video I send to ppl to demonstrate cleaning anchors. Thank you for leaving behind your knowledge, Cody. R.I.P.

[johntatman]

I can't tell you how many cleaning videos I've watched and I have to say your is the best. I'm teaching my granddaughter and I want her to watch this over and over as well as practice at our local gym. Thanks so much for the clear concise info.

[isaack]

Much love Cody❤️❤️ I'm sorry for your struggles, I feel your pain. Have fun climbing the walls that never end 🤙

[MACHINEND]

Terrible to hear about him passing away. :(

Don't have words..

[mikelarin]

This is exactly how i teach people to clean routes. Fastest and safest way, never untied from the system at any point. Great video as always!

[grosebud]

I just got into climbing a month ago and been watching his videos and only today found out he passed :( RIP

[brandontiev]

Seeing this pop up has made me really sad. Rest in peace to this legend.

[twobrokenlegs]

Wtf...what kind of black magic was used to untie that original figure 8 so fast?!?

[wellsee]

Nice, but I would still keep 2 point until the new system has a figure 8 or, Bowlin with a top not.

[talisenbrown-robbins]

Great for some anchors but many on the rap stations won’t have hardware big enough to pass a bite through

[TheJeffDing]

RIP dude hope you're at peace now

[die_hertz]

I prefer using figure eight rather than overhand on a bight, but apart from that this is my goto guide

[alejandrocruz]

Remember that different areas have different climbing ethics! Please respect them. Lowering may be fine but they wear out the anchor hardware much faster.

[maxjenkins]

my fav method of lowering off sport climbs, very fast and safe

[robbiemize]

I guess different areas use different terms, but I never saw a fifi used anywhere in this video. I'm from CA, not sure if this is from another area/country or if I'm just an idiot. Nice technique though, regardless!

[TaccaT]

So interesting to guiding techniques vs climbers techniques.

[tripshark]

I prefer to rappel after cleaning. First, it keeps my skills sharp. Secondly, it'll preserve the rope rather than having it rub on the wall's aged hardware... But all in all, do you.

[causeitsthere]

Those quick links are for rappel. Usually lowering on chains or quick links kinks your rope and adds extra wear to the metal we all share. Steel biners or mussy’s are recommended for lowering.

[martinandreasvik]

I would never clip in to my quickdraws like that. Much better to clip into the ring of the Anchorage.