How to PROPERLY use and adjust your sight

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Learning how to move your sight properly is essential for archery regardless of which bow you shoot.

Whether it's target olympic recurve, compound, or field/3D shooting, you can gain easy points by using the sight in the right way.

Here I show you how to use, adjust and calibrate your sight correctly so that you can keep your groups in the middle.

If you follow the steps and calibration here, you will be much faster at making adjustments and will lose less points during competition.

Enjoy, and thanks for watching!

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My Online Archery Academy Mission is to help archers worldwide improve their shooting, by providing world-class lessons, courses and information on everything related to olympic archery.
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OnlineArcheryAcademy
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Thanks as a novice of six weeks and only having my sight for less than a week, I am on a steep learning curve. Also I am 70 years old, old dog new tricks comes to mind.

Shropshireladdie
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I swear you read my mind with these videos: I had this hang up in my head that I could only move my sight a certain amount until my coach corrected me on that misconception. After throwing that idea out, it was way easier to get groups in yellow.

Loved the breakdown on what outer rings correspond to what in the yellow...that's a great perspective I've never heard before.

chrisaccardo
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It is simple ballistic math. I have a draw length of 28”, distance from my aiming eye to the Shibuya sight is 940mm. Therefore moving the sight 1mm is 1/940 approx 1 milli radian. Which equates to moving your arrow group 9.4mm per 10m. At 70m with a 122cm target each ring is 6cm. 1mm movement of the sight ie 1 mRad will move your group 9.4mm x 7 = 65.8mm (6.58cm). Each ring width of a 122cm target is 60mm (6cm). So if you group in the blue you need to move your sights 4 rings across which is 4mm on you sight pin. On the Shibuya it would take 4 turns. The elevation knob 1 click = 0.05mm and windage knob 1 click = 0.044mm of sight pin movement.

WildlifeKit
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Brilliant channel. Nothing as informative on the internet for ages and then 2 of you come at once. You and Jake Kaminski. Struggling to keep.up with the pair of you. I've heard, regarding the clicks on the slght, the most important click is the like button. Great stuff on here mate, please keep it coming and thank you.

johnrichichi
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Nice presentation, I'd like to add a little detail, the further away from the riser is the sight dot the less amount of clicks is required, the closer it is to the riser the more turns has to be made... many people set this horizontal setting at the max distance regardless the distance they shoot at, which is not ideal because the visual size of the sight dot has to change according to the perceptual size of the gold ring to maintain the same visual picture whatever the distance is...just my two cents. Great channel. Have a great day

Theborderlined
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Very useful information, as I'm just starting to use a sight. Thanks!

rogertulk
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Absolute gold! I never thought much about the amount of clicks before this. I’d trial and error but wasting points in the mean time. I’m going to try your suggestion of working out the exact number of clicks to move so many band of the target. Cheers!

valentineyau
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Thabjs for the info. Made me think, when you said about the size of the gold.

kraffles
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Thank you. I’m just a beginner so I just have a basic cartel sight. However I’d like to get something a little bit better but not too complicated at this stage

anyaconnolly
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6 GRADS IS MY GUESS. GOOD VIDEO, VERY USEFUL.

bbaileyable
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Thanks so much. I am a 8 month in beginner. I understand about chasing the arrow with the sight. But my Avalon sight has hardly any horizontal leeway. About 8mm in total so if I shoot a group left blue I struggle to manually aim to compensate . I am talking indoors at 18 metres.

calvinxs
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Wow! The best explanation I have seen. Thanks.

ronsarchery
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Re first 3mins, the other way to think of this is.... you’re keeping the sight on the gold, but adjusting the sight screws moves the bow up/down etc. So, for example, your arrows grouping to the left, you need to move your bow to the right - and by adjusting the sight screws you do this.

tomburton
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You complicated the follow your arrow principle

edcopeland
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Could you do a video on tournaments? I’m going to my first indoor one at end of October

anyaconnolly
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"FORS": Front Opposite Rear Same, is the acronym wh use when adjusting a weapon with a front sight elevation adjustment (think iron sights on certain rifles). This also applies to bows as the sight pins on the bow translates to the front sight on a firearm...The peep, or the shooters eye, being the rear sight. If you need your grouping to move up, adjust the sight down. If you need your group to move down, move your sight up...or as he explained, follow the arrows...If they group high, move your sight up. If they group low, move the sight down. I know it's counter intuitive and makes the brain hurt.

MyCCW
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Have you ever drawn a graph of your sight marks? I.e. lateral = distance, vertical = sight mark. When I’ve done this, it’s a straight line from about 30y to 100y, but curves over below 30y. The great use of this is that if you find, one day, that your sighters show, say, 2mm higher than usual (so 2mm above the graph’s line), when you change distance the difference will still be 2mm above the graph line. So you’re on point from the first arrow at the new distance. (Also, of course, the graph will tell you your sight mark for ANY distance).

tomburton
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Remember: you paid extra for the dials on your sight, so you might as well use them! 🤔

OnlineArcheryAcademy
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Do you aim with your bow shoulder or with the hand shoulder?

beharjean-claude