How to Replace Xbox One Controller Analog Joystick - NEW METHOD - Fix Stick Drift, Broken, & Loose

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Timeline:

Introduction - 0:00
Joystick Misconceptions - 0:40
Tools - 2:17
Testing Controller - 4:30
Taking Controller Apart - 6:02
Joysticks Removal (Normal Method) - 8:23
Joystick Removal (Disassembly Method) - 11:04
Putting in New Joystick - 13:45
How to Calibrate - 15:55
Potentiometer Demo 1 - 17:04
Potentiometer Demo 2 - 19:40
Potentiometer Demo 3 - 22:00
Potentiometer Demo 4 - 22:47
Potentiometer Demo 5 - 25:43
Potentiometer Demo 6 - 26:39
Controller Assembly - 27:50
Last Test & Outro - 29:30

Tired of having a non-working controller because the joystick isn’t functioning correctly? Replacing your analog stick will fix and repair many joystick issues and problems including but not limited to: stick drift, creeping, stuttering, blind spots, dead zones, no click, non-centered, broken, and loose joysticks. This method for replacing your joystick will fix these issues on Regular, S, and Elite model Xbox One Controllers. In this video you will learn how to test your controller, take the controller apart, remove the analog joystick, install and replace the joystick with soldering iron, use a multi-meter to measure the potentiometers, and manually calibrate the joystick.

Searchable Keywords: Xbox One Controller Joystick Potentiometer Alps Sensor Replace Fix Repair Install Replacement Open Remove Stick Drift Broken Loose Creeping Stuttering Blind Spots no Click Not Clicking Solder

DISCLAIMER: Some of the links on this channel are affiliate links which means by clicking on them and purchasing the items I get a small commission.
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As always the links for the kits are in the description. Thanks for watching!

SOSSGAMING
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PS .... I am an 81 year old retired EE and ham radio guy. I still build and repair circuits that use surface mount components. I have a few medical issues but am blessed with steady hands and clear vision. I love a good project. What did we ever do before YouTube?!!

davesublette
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"And now comes the fun part"

After trying this a few times, he's not lying! Thanks, whoever you are, for legit creating a new hobby for me. I've repaired countless controllers with your help!

rehdogglife
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30 minuets of knowledge, direction and no wasted time. Your instructions are spot on, methods of indestructible and destructive are appreciated as not always can people afford a hot air gun ontop of all the other stuff. I'm about to attempt this myself and was unaware that there's a high potential that the potentiometers need ajustment. Thanks.

anikidwolfy
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If you're using just a soldering iron you can remove the joysticks without damaging them. First apply some new solder to each pin. Then apply some flux to your desoldering braid, press it to the pins you want to desolder and then apply a really hot soldering iron. I used about 420+ on my iron and the solder sucks right out of the holes and into the flux coated braid. Repeat this until all the pins are loose enough to pull the joystick out in one piece. Your iron will need to be really hot and the tip will need to be cleaned occasionally during the process but it works. It will take about 6 to 10 inches of desoldering braid per joystick but don't cut it beforehand, only cut off the used pieces of braid as you go and use a fume extractor or a fan... or just don't inhale.

rsn
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Thanks for a great tutorial!! My son is heavy handed and got tired of buying new, managed to fix 2 of my controllers!! For anyone who will follow this tutorial, take your time and follow instructions, it’s not hard, just takes patience!!

mnjrivera
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You're probably the most patient content creator I've ever watched.
I felt the struggle when you couldn't get the results right.

ChaosTheory
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Excellent video. Just used it to repair a controller. Strictly speaking, one does not have to unsolder the motor wires. Taking care to leave the remaining half of the assembly flat on the table will prevent the headphone jack from falling out. Our calibration results were nearly perfect. The tool kit and repair parts kits were fantastic. Thanks!!

davesublette
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Very thorough and patient with explaining every step. And being mindful with showing differences between each kind of controller. Extremely helpful and appreciated 👍

Sarah-lmtk
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my brain: yeah i got it
my hands: no you dont

HeroMickeyYu
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For environmental reasons it should be illegal for a company to sell a shitty product that easily breaks and not provide the software needed to calibrate and repair the device.

jonasregnell
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Just used this process today to repair my Xbox One Wireless Controller that was drifting. It was a tedious process, but the outcome was great. Thanks SOSS Gaming for sharing your video!

idk-yhdw
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One little tip for manually adjusting the pots without having to bend the pins (so keeping them more or less freely rotatable (if that's even a word)) is to use BGA solder paste to connect the pot pins to the pads. This is basically solder in spreadable paste form that melts into regular solder joints when heated, but is flexible and conductive before that, allowing for testing and adjustment without having to bend the pins over (or worst case having to tack-solder them in place multiple times even). Just don't make a mess with the paste as it's positive point (being conductive) can easily turn into a negative one (shorting things out)

Knaeckebrotsaege
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your use of flux is very important as it spreads heat quickly and helps stop board overheating

jamesocker
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Software for calibrating controller may not exist due to the lack of USB-based debugging on these controllers. I haven't looked to see if USB debugging exists on these controllers, and I'm not sure if this varies by model but I would assume each model is fairly similar, these controllers have SWD debug pads at the bottom of the main board next to the headphone jack; the silkscreen labels are 0/NA, RES, A14, A13, and 3V3. Through software, OpenOCD is a typical choice for this, you can find chip information, which is hidden under a blob of epoxy, and these controllers seem to typically use SMT32 chips. Through the software you can also access memory, of which you can dump, modify, and reflash, which SMT32 chips require a wipe before flashing to written memory. I personally haven't done a deep dive into the firmware, but recalibration through this method shouldn't be difficult assuming you're familiar with debugging. If there is USB-based debugging, that only makes the process simpler; but I personally doubt their is considering someone can brick their controller with a bad script, and scriptkiddies run rampant these days, it's probably a failsafe to deter this behavior by outright disabling USB debugging.

I wouldn't be surprised if the various hacker and modder forums have already figured this out, long ago, as it's just a simple debug job over an SWD port. I also wouldn't be surprised if some repair shops don't do this also, as making a tool for this would be fairly easy, especially if you find a way to automate the process entirely. But the only issue with this is that Microsoft is constantly coming out with new versions of these controllers, and my main source of board information is currently unavailable so I can't just reference each version at the moment; this also assumes that Microsoft hasn't drastically changed the computing hardware either.

Honestly I wish controllers would move to a better method for analogue sticks, as they're proving to be plagued with issues, especially when you deviate from the standard design, like with what Nintendo does. Even a hardware based recalibration would be nice, implement limit switches to measure min/max values when a calibration button is pressed; that kind of calibration button could also be hidden in the battery tray, or easily done through software.

xaytana
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Imagine that feeling when you know that you will never have to buy a new controller because of a Drift problem. I am going to try this method for the first time tomorrow, and I'm very excited.
Actually I'm thinking about taking a new hobby, as someone already mentioned above me. Lot of people around me are having trouble with Drift and there are only few people who can repair them well.
Thank you very much for such an informative and hight quality video. Wish you everything good in your life.

sandrochomaxidze
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I just swapped the old ones with new sticks, and behold, no calibration needed, works fine! :) I actually did the repair before watching this video, but you show lots of useful tricks. :3

Aearian
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THIS IS AWESOME. I just wish I had searched for this like two weeks ago. I switched out the tension springs for my thumbsticks but the left stick was stuck down and I thought it was just broken but I guess all I had to do was recalibrate it! I supposed I can still fix em but I already bought two broken controllers that I've now fixed thanks to this vid

aHondaaa
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This is a good instruction video specially the method of disassembling (11:04).

What most guide fail to explain is that the whole module will act as a huge heatsink hence why some people have trouble disordering and they end up damaging the board. Most casual people only have the cheapest and basic tools and with this method they'll be able to avoid damaging their controllers.

Also for recalibration there's a new method for recalibrating sticks called Heller Drift Stick Fix but is quite expensive atm. Maybe there'll be a time when someone will mass produce these boards after all the PS5 joystick uses the same model as the ps4 so the drift issue will remain for the next 7 years or so

roahnosh
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Clicked on this video to happily find out I was misunderstanding an issue with my controller taken apart. Then just listened to his voice while I reassembled my controller…. Good vid 👌🏼

bradenlynn