How to build a RAM PUMP

[maximoincognito]

I made a waste valve with 2" coupling and 2x1" boozing, one of the boozing is inverted ang welded. I install a reducer from 1" to 1/2 inch for plunger rod. The plunger is made of hard rubber(truck tyre) around a inch thick with stud bolt as a rod. It can adjust to the desired cycle of the pump. I learned that it is better to have a slower cycle if the delivery distance is longer and higher vertical to lift.

[romar]

You're the first one here to put emphasis on the little air hole below the pressure tank valve to replenish the air. Other posters here on youtube state that you need a bladder tank, a pool noodle or another elastic and compressible device to prevent losing the pressure in the tank. Keeping in mind that hydraulic ram pumps were invented in 1796 and successfully worked for more than 200 years without a bladder tank, this is the crucial element to make the pump almost maintenance free.
My grandpa used an already old one some fourty years ago to deliver water to his garden. My cousin, who inherited it, said it is still working.
In Swabia those pumps are nicknamed 'the diligent cobbler' due to their never-ceasing knocking sound.

[ericchapman]

Great demonstration of a ram pump on how to build it and how it works.
No false claims only advice on what to alter to give possibly a better performance

[DYIIdeas]

Great demonstration of a ram pump on how to build it and how it works.

[sanramondublin]

your is THE best I have seen so far.
I have not seen that crucial 1/16 hole under check valve sending water to Chamber on other YOU TUBE Presentation.
Air being replenished in Chamber make the whole thing operate smoothly and work right.

40 years ago I did one of these for final practical Engineering project.
I had to Machin the valve with adjustable length and weight.

What you are doing is much better ; calibrating the SPRING.
Try three different spring and a 5 gallon Bucket at the end of hose and measure the time; see which spring fills the bucket sooner.

These Ram pumps are great for hilly areas with running water at lower levels.
Depending on amount of water, one can put 4 of them next to each other.

Great job, I hope everybody follow your design and read my comment.

greetings from California, best wishes.

[thebrotherhood]

I watched this whole video and still have no clue how to build a ram pump.

[DonnDIY]

Great work on that ram pump! It's very satisfying to watch it working. ;)

[jamesmbuthia]

This one looks very simplified could you mind taking us step by step on assembling to installation

[WiliamBennettwildarbennett]

The Hole is allowing a momentary vacuum break, and the "pressure tank" which is actually an expansion tank. Like what is on a deep well pump. Very neat idea using the reversed spring on the one way valve. Will try to build one like this. Thanks.

[SourcePortEntertainment]

Love this ram pump design. Seems simpler than others I have seen. I would love to get one setup and have a pressure nozzle on it, to push a small water turbine to charge a battery bank and be off grid. Keep up the great work. - Danny

[gregechols]

His ram obviously works, but does have problems if lifting to a greater height.
I built a ram pump in 1978 and used it for 25 years lifting water 320 feet.
For high lifting you must use STEEL Drive pipe and steel delivery pipe first 250 feet.
Also for lift above 60 feet pump must be all metal. ( l have watched metal freon tank explode and fly over 100 feet high)
My ram had 20 feet fall from water resavore through 1 1/2 inch drive pipe then union conecter to pump valve to steel pressure tank is
1 1/2 CLATON MARK one way check valve. Tank is 3 inch steel pipe. My clacker valve 1 1/2 inch SWING CHECK VALVE ( very loud). My delivery pipe is 3/4 inch steel water pipe to 4000 gal water tank. I got 4800 gallons every 24 hours.( approx 1 1/2 gal per min).

[hermanfelderhof]

At about eight and a half minutes into your video you were talking about the heart beat. The optimal number of beats per minute will depend on every individual's unique setup.
For my setup, about sixty beats per minute turned out to be just about perfect. A problem with my setup is the available water in my spring can be vary seasonally.
During times when my creek doesn't have as much water in it, a faster number of beats per minute means less water wasted through the pump so my dam is less likely to run out of water. My ram pump has an adjustable stroke length on the valve and also some big fat washers for weights which can be to added or removed, as well as changing to stronger or weaker springs.
I had to use a stopwatch and a count the number of beats per minute and keep measuring the pumped volume with a bucket and stopwatch at the other end. I made a graph of the performance curve and then settled on a number of beats per minute which conserved my dam water and still resulted in a pretty good volume of water delivered to my tank.
For you it looks like you have an ample water supply for the size ram pump you made so maybe the speed of the pump will be less critical for your setup.
Nice video, thank you for sharing it, it's always nice to see other people's ideas. You have a great setup, congratulations.

[jackx]

It would have a higher delivery rate, and would have started much quicker, if you hadn't lifted the pipe coming from the spring. Hydraulic rams don't depend on pressure on the inlet side in order to work, they depend on the SPEED of the incoming water. Flowing water possesses kinetic energy. If you halve the flow rate of the water, the kinetic energy drops to a quarter of what it was - and there's a drastic reduction in the flow rate out of the ram through the delivery pipe. When you lifted up that spring water pipe, the flow rate dropped very sharply - and there's the problem. The flow rate has to reach a critical speed in order to snap the waste valve shut, and cause the pressure spike which opens the delivery valve; the more you interfere with the free flow of input water, the longer it takes for it to reach enough speed to snap the waste valve shut, and the more water you waste out of the waste valve.
Reversing that spring in the waste valve made it worse, because the the spring water not only has to overcome the weight of the waste valve to shut it - it also has to overcome the spring pressure as well.
Those two factors significantly reduce the efficiency of the set up, and that's a real pity.
I'm sure that if you turn that spring water pipe down to where it was to start with, take the spring out of the waste valve, and then connect your hydraulic ram in the vertical position again, you'll see a heck of a difference.
HTH

[shahzad]

Good videos and authentic content doesn't need #ASMR sh*t. So relaxing to see actual work being done and not slomo closeups. Thanks for sharing sir!

[TheForceHungerGames]

🎉 thanks for putting that on the Internet and letting us see how are you did it.

[trentnichols]

That is a thing of beauty. Thank you. Lots of great usable info. Thank you

[RRaucina]

Usually the hole in the pipe has a tiny SS cotter pin in it or a piece of copper wire bent on both ends to restrict flow. I am building a ram with a schrader valve - tire valve, but made for old style water well tanks as an air entrance valve - it has no spring and it is stainless steel. Available at good well supply stores, but getting out dated. Basically a tiny check valve - lets air in and water not out. Still you can't beat a simple hole - but the wire makes it self cleaning.

[kusgilb]

Great job - This is probably the best design I have seen. I like your use of a central axis check valve vs a hinged one.

[gatorsworld]

I watched it again Gilbert and it's just fascinating that this find you did real, great on this one....CHEERS

[stuffinfinland]

You could use that to fill up tanks uphill and water your lawn? :)