6 Electrical Code Myths people Should Stop Believing

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In this video we will clear up 6 myths about electrical code requirements that many DIYer and even many electricians should stop believing.
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FlexiSpot is having their anniversary sale now and a chance to win free orders! 🌟 Use my code ''24AUGE7PLUS” for extra $50 off on E7 PLUS! Trust me, it's a rare treat!

BackyardMaine
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Liked the info; it’s funny to me that perceptions can be just so strong and at times even defy code. I know where I am if you don’t use no Alox you’ll fail an inspection and won’t get a service sticker to allow equipment to be energized. You can show a code section but the gist is safer rather than sorry and it’s not hurting anyone. I was so glad to get out of the commercial space as industrial/municipal is so much better and more sane, at least as far as code compliance. The biggest thing to try to convince people of is following torque spec, as it is required but, seemingly rarely followed, at least outside of larger equipment.

libertarian
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Two other factors governing the use of anti-short bushings:
1, Some agencies require the use of all supplied components from the manufacturer.(whether actually required or not.)
2. Some jurisdictions still have the requirement on the books from decades ago. (Hence, why they're still shipped.)
Legacy; code, standards, and requirements exist all over industry!

johneastmond
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I was surprised by the splicing in the panel. I was watching my electrician doing a panel upgrade and saw him doing a ton of splices in the panel. It was a combination of old wiring and the panel length increasing that required him to splice a bunch of wires just to get them to reach the new breakers. I guess people forget that splices always need access (in addition to what you read as code) and you certainly have access in the panel. Thanks for keeping us informed.

sidlives
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In depth but also simple to understand. As always, great video John!

HowToHomeDIY
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Good info, thanks!

I encourage you to get a padded mat under your feet while standing at your desk. That concrete floor will damage you.

Sylvan_dB
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Hey John! Thanks for this one - I must admit that the 15A/20A receptacle on a 15A breaker was new to me. I've never tried to do this (we use 15A recepts on our resi projects), but my internal "common sense" would have told me that there was no issue (similar to putting 20A wire, or #12 AWG, on a 15A breaker - it's still protected). But the point about "encouraging" the use of higher-wattage (20A cord cap) equipment from a receptacle/load point of view does make perfect sense!

ElectricRob
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I understand why the no ox requirement was waived as I live in Colorado where the weather is as dry as a popcorn fart. The thing is, I’ve dealt with low voltage RJ45 connectors in marine environments and the air alone in that environment is aggressive enough that anti oxidation materials are prudent regardless of code recommendations.

Davidlyle
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good stuff. you answered most of the questions I could never find. Thanks!!

weaselhead
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I was doing some MC recently in the attic and my old Greenlee cutter was in the basement, but my little M12 bandsaw was at hand. I tried it on the MC and obviously, it cut the MC. Just then I used my good ol Klien reamer/debur to remove any edge (there was almost none), I have a ton of old single screw fasteners (not the new ones you show). The protector goes in nice and smooth.
It looks like the collar/clap type connectors for use without the bushing may cause issues as the clamp could squeeze down on the cable and bushing too much.
BTW: The little M12 bandsaw is great for EMT, RMC, MC, copper, AL, etc.

stringlarson
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When I first started learning the Code, one thing became very clear: it is not a guide to the best practices for using and installing electrical devices. It is the base requirement that can be approved. Do you have to install a redhead when installing armored cable? Nope. But, you are a fool if you do not. A proficient worker could find dozens of such examples. Don't confuse code requirements for good methodologies.

arthouston
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If copper is clamped onto aluminium it can cause corrosion.
WAGO allows to use its clamps with aluminium only with anti-corrosion paste.
WAGO offers anti-corrosion paste for this purpose.
Omitting this paste is a violation of the manufacturer's specifications.

jensschroder
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In every dwelling unit I've worked in, it is a universal practice to install 15A receptacles on the required 20A kitchen, bathroom, laundry room and garage receptacles. Equipment with NEMA 5-20 plugs are very seldom encountered in a typical family home, so I've only installed single NEMA 5-20R devices in homes to identify it as a 20A individual branch circuit for something like a large refrigerator or expresso machine if the manufacturer's instructions specify a 120V 20A individual branch circuit regardless of whether the equipment in question has a 15 or 20a plug, since per the NEC a single receptacle outlet on a branch circuit must match the rating of the overcurrent protection device.

In the unlikely event you see an appliance with a 120V 20A plug, such as a commercial grade microwave oven for example, even if the electrician had installed 20A devices on the 20A circuits, you should check the instruction manual because it will probably say something like "FOR USE ON AN INDIVIDUAL 120VAC, 60Hz, 20 AMPERE BRANCH CIRCUIT ONLY" in which case 110.3 (B) applies.

As always, we need to also be aware of any local codes which may be more stringent than or have requirements that go beyond the NEC. For example some jurisdictions could require 20A devices to be installed on 20A circuits even though the NEC permits 15 or 20A devices on 20A circuits.

Sparky-wwre
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When reidentifying a wire with tape, I recommend NOT using black tape. Black tape can be mistaken as a repair of the insulation rather than a reidentification. If you must repair the insulation on a neutral conductor, use white tape so someone doesn't mistake it for a reidentified wire.

The above isn't a code requirement; it's just a best practice.

jonjohnson
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The code may not require anti-ox, but there are still manufacturers that require it, and the code states if anti-ox is required by the manufacture, then it is required by the code.

mdunbar
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My grandparents had a new house built in 2004 in Arizona. In 2007 an aluminum wire feeding the AC Compressor corroded at the panel and started a cascade failure, melting the wire. It left burn marks on the trusses and other framing; it damn near burned down the house. Noalox was not used on either end. I learned 2 things from this incident. If I have AL wire, I use Noalox, period, regardless of code. Also, when I built my new house, I spent the extra money and used copper for feeding subpanels, ovens and HVAC. Was it expensive? Yes. Am I ever going to have to worry about it? No.

mondoggy
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Many of these may not be required but reflect better installation practices when used. It is always best if you can have workmanship that always "meets or exceeds code" than simply "meets code".

bigdog
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This is REALLY some good information❗️Thanks for keeping us updated👍

BartlettTFD
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Love your professionalism!! Thanks good information!!

treepop
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I'm not a licensed electrician but at my own home, I follow the code book. I was an electronic tech, and know enough to follow the book.

jeffsaxton