Transmission & Engine Mount Replacement

Learn how to change your transmission mount or your engine mounts on a 3rd GEN Toyota 4Runner. This repair would be similar on a Toyota Tacoma. For this 17 year old 4Runner, the mounts were still in great shape so do your best to inspect the mounts before buying new ones.

**TORQUE SPECS**
*Transmission Mount to Crossmember Bolts: 13lb/lbf
*Transmission Mount to Transmission Bolts: 48 ft/lbf
*Crossmember #3 Bolts: 53 ft/lbf
*Engine Mount Bolts: 28 ft/lbf
*Wheel Lug Nuts: 85 ft/lbf

**PARTS**
*(2) Toyota Engine Isolators (aka Motor Mounts) #12361 - 62160

(1) Transmission Isolator (aka Transmission Mount) #12371 - 62120

**HELPFUL TOOLS**
*If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.*

*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (use to check trans mount and to pry off exhaust grommet)

*6 Ton Jack Stands - (strong jacks to support vehicle while you're working underneath it)


*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (nice to speed up removing fasteners like the skid pan bolts)


*Milwaukee M12 Battery


*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery

*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger

*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set


*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set


*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set



*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (strong gun for removing lug nuts and other big fasteners)


*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun - (nice compact gun for smaller applications)

*Dewalt Batteries

*Dewalt Battery Charger

*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set - (nice set for all different lug nut sizes)


*3/8" Drive Regular Impact Extension Set

*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set


*Harbor Freight 2000 lb Transmission Jack

- (works really well and is affordable)

*Rubber pad for protecting oil pan - (used section of this with trans jack)

*1/2” Drive Breaker Bar - 12” Long - (used for holding cross member bolts firm)

*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set

*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set

*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque most fasteners in this video)


*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque wheel lug nuts)


*Plastic Fastener Removal Tool - (nice tool to remove plastic clips like the ones in the wheel well)

*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (used for the motor mounts)

*Tekton Extra Long Flex-Head Ratcheting Box End Wrench Set - (used for the motor mounts)


*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (3/8 ratchet was used for the 17mm center nut for the motor mounts. these ratchets are super functional and worth their weight in gold)

**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[tmorga]

This man has saved me so much time and money....had my runner since rolling

[westonhood]

You are literally a savior for so many people. Your videos are so important for so many people. You are becoming a legend!! 😂

[ChrisTejada-nlmh]

Dude you always have the videos that are so hard to find! Keep up the work!

[arechj]

Your videos rule! the Force is definitely strong with you! Thanks as usual! I've rebuilt my whole truck through your videos!

[fortis]

Great video Tim, I learned my lesson today,
Always buy oem or you will do it twice 🤣I bought an aftermarket which looked identical once I removed the old one the new wouldn’t align!

[Ziggy-es]

Great video, explained very well with great camera work. Own a 2004 Tacoma 4x4 bought it new and still going strong! I'm an old dude but still do most of the work myself. So, thanks for the info.

[mtyota]

This guy makes it looks simple! Tim is the man 👌

[Nate_tureboy]

Timmy
We were chatting on the Tundra brake video comment section. I was at Lowe's and spotted a Kobalt 3/8" flex head ratchet and it looked promising. I was able to remove both mounts with relative ease! However, opposite of your instructions, the ratchet handle for me was able to rotate by cranking it upward. I was able to do the ratcheting with the handle passing between the exhaust manifolds and the engine bay inner fender! Once they were loose I switched back to the 1/4" drive ratchet from below as you were successful. On the passenger side the ratchet handle rubs the manifold shield pretty snug but press on. The drivers side becomes much easier by disconnecting the alternator wires/abs wire/various vac hoses or at least disconnect their brackets. I've went ahead and destroyed my new mounts by cutting off the threaded portion and put a 1/2" bolt/washer/nut through the entire thing. I came across a blog mentioning this mod allows the engine to settle/press on the mounts but it will not be able to "pull" on them. Allowing for compression and better transfer of engine rotational force! We shall see : )
Thanks for your help and the encouragement

[thomas]

I just did this on my 00 Tacoma 2.7, 2wd. My transmission mount needed replacement. I didn’t need to remove the cross member. But the front two motor mounts didn’t need to be replaced, be sure to check for movement of the engine before you replace the engine mounts. I used the thin flex head double ended rachet from harbor freight, worked great. When working on the front two motor mounts, remove the air intake hose to give the engine more room to move vertically. Finally, take your driveshaft to a driveline shop when finished to balance it. This will keep the trans mount from wearing out again and reduce vibrations in your driveline. Very good rundown on replacing these mounts, thank you!

[mrs]

The nuts that hold the cross member to the frame may be pinch to lock (not sure if this is the correct term) which, may explain why they were so hard to get off. A pinch to lock nut is slightly deformed (a little oblong in the center) and lock better than nylon lock nuts. This is especially true for bigger nuts and nuts that are frequently removed and reused. I use them whenever I can and love them even though they take considerably more effort to install and remove. When you get done you know the nuts will not back out. Especially useful for the sway bar brackets and end links.

[julioakapyrocovarrubias]

Bro I lost my shit when he said more cushion for the pushin 🤣🤣🤣

[cheesewhiz]

Good video!

I think you can cut down on the amount of times you repeat yourself though or exit them out. We can rewind if we miss something.

[washingtontran]

Great video, very clear instruction and great stabilize, camera angles.

[adamburgess]

Dang those are some of the most difficult bolts to get to (engine mounts)!! 6 hours later😂 i will share some info that applies to lifted vehicles . If your truck/4runner is lifted or sitting on 33 inch or bigger tires you will run into some problems- i had to special order some taller jack stands as my frame sits at about 24 inches off the ground . Also A high lift jack with wheel lift mate to get the truck into the air. Unless you have some special jack that goes above 24 inches (most dont) . Also unless u have a special jack you will need to implement the engine hoist as the regular heavy duty jack didnt lift the engine high enough to get new mounts in. Thanks Timmy for the video, youre the man!

[Caughtitoutdoors]

You do awesome demos dude. Checked mine on my 2001, and they are still good. Thought I was going to have to take a drive over to Camelback Toyota but nah.

[Albiemanmike]

WOW have prices skyrocketed since you did this video! I just paid $168 for the motor mounts and transmission mounts.

[BloodSeeker]

I just wanna drop a comment and say thanks again! I needed some info on what exactly I needed to buy and almost bought that metal piece that goes between the rubber mount and engine. Thanks for all the hard work you do with these videos!

[Prodagyxx]

Timm your video's are super helpful for maintaining my 3rd gen thanks. The mount is different on the RWD Limited and is not directly below the cross member, this became an issue when i lowered the transmission from my jack and the bolts had shifted 1/2 an inch and i'm unsure on how to get it back where i should and no one makes as helpful videos as you if you have any advice i'm open to it. I appreciate what you do!

[thegarager]

Once again, a spot on video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[collinclark]

Thanks for the video Timmy. Your page has saved the day more than once. The problem I’m having with my motor mounts is the 14mm holes don’t line up after taking the jack out. I’ve got the 17mm bolt in and the nut on, but it looks as if I need to pull my motor forward a good inch or so. Any tips for anyone else like me having problems lining the mount with the frame?