How To Replace Worn Engine Mount and Transmission Mount

preview_player
Показать описание
Worn motor mounts, or engine mounts can cause noise, vibration, or harshness. Today we are replacing the engine mount and transmission mount with "performance mounts" The goal of the engine mount replacement is to reduce engine movement, but not create any engine vibration. I will be using a higher durometer of rubber rather than polyurethane mounts.

~~~~ Support the Show ~~~~

~~~~ Recommended Tools ~~~~

~~~~ Playlists ~~~~

~~~~ Be sure to follow me at ~~~~
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

These are the very best DIY videos I have ever seen.

willinda
Автор

Great video, took all the scary out of changing mounts!

timmyb
Автор

The track density mounts aren’t bad in the VR6. 034 will tell you this as well since it’s balanced much better than the 4 cyl.

stonewp
Автор

Very nicely done, process is the same for the 1..8t engine mounts on my mk1 TT. Vw original mounts are 511 (eng) and 111 eur (transmission) lol. Buy aftermarket of course. Febi is the OEM manufacturer.

gplusgplus
Автор

My mounts were bad and it gave a knocking sound while driving. I could believe that they would have knocked so badly. Nice vid.

omarcheevers
Автор

replaced mine today with the help of this video, thanks Charles !

youdrinkindunkin
Автор

I remember that mine engine side engine mount was so tired, that the inner part was totally loose i could take it out :D One important note, the VW/Audi service manual says to replace the bolts

shemmo
Автор

Your videos are so helpful, I just changed my mk4 golf engine mount today, thankss!!

salvacano
Автор

I have replaced many engine mounts on a variety of cars. Cheap mounts never last, and I have even encountered ones that failed while still wrapped up in the original package. Sometimes they don't line up correctly because they are built to some pretty pathetic tolerances. If you ever need to replace engine mounts on a car, no matter what car you own, use only OEM, OES, or purpose built racing mounts. The money you might save on cheap mounts is not worth the extra labor you will be spending on those mounts.


The advice for this special mount is great. I usually worked on American and Japanese cars, and they have far fewer quirks with repairs. This is why I recommend Honda and Toyota to people who aren't car enthusiasts.


I'm willing to accept the extra costs of owning a German car since I do everything myself, however, I intend to buy an Evo X. There will never be another Mitsubishi Evo, so I never have to think "Damn, I wish I could afford the newest variant" every 3 years or so. This is why I will take an Evo X over a Subaru rally car or VW Golf R.

skylinefever
Автор

Great video love all your stuff that applies to my jetta mk5. I cant wait to see how to do the rear dog bone because there aren't any videos as good as yours out there on how to do it, so I have been procrastinating it for the longest time. Thank you again for all your helpful videos keep it up.

coreymartel
Автор

Charles, an even better way would be to "jack up" the number plates, & replace what is between them!!! hahahaha!! Those are fun to do!!

christophermarshall
Автор

I always like watching your videos makes me want to get back out and work on my projects. :) A bit of a side note I find interesting and maybe you will too, typical oems for cheapness including parts manufacturers use cheap rubber materials with a typical tuned mass system to try and reduce vibrations. Its the wrong material for the job, the are materials like some engineered urethanes that have purpose built characteristic of absorbing vibrational energy and turning it into heat. Yes rubber does this some but kinda poor it transfers the energy into the mount and they add stiffness to the mount to try and hold the engine in place better for race applications. These above engineered materials can be pretty stiff and yet transfer verry little vibration through. It sucks that aftermarket urethane mount manufacturers havn't yet taken advantage of these materials.

met
Автор

Incredibly helpful video. Thank you both so much.

RedondoBeach
Автор

Perfect timing guys Thank You. My son and I recently did the the clutch on the GTI and yup, should have done those mounts. This weekend we are gonna sneak back in there and change em' out.

gmans
Автор

Great video. For what it is worth, the Bentley manual does not indicate the smaller 13mm bolt on the Trans mount is not a torque to yield. It just indicates it is Torqued to 18 Ft-Lbs. Unlike the 16mm bolts that are torqued to 30 ft-lbs plus an extra 90 degree turn.

nbpt
Автор

Great video, I have these mounts and absolutely love them. We’re actually very fortunate to have a sport rubber mount as most aftermarket are poly (and poly is fine, just not for engine/transmission mounting imo).

Mellchior
Автор

Just what I was looking for ! Thank you very much!

diogopinto
Автор

Great timing! The motor mount on my Mk4 Jetta seems to be getting loose. Looks like a pretty straightforward job.

michaelblacktree
Автор

This is a great video. Very well explained. I just have a quick question: Would you recommend putting anti-seize on the new bolts?

eneasgonzalez
Автор

what about bolt sizes or part number to replace them ??. I would really appreciate your help with that, please

ikarovibritania