Engine & Transmission Mounts Replacement - Toyota Camry

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Engine and transmission mounts will exhibit signs of wear when a clunking sound or rattling noise is noticed during acceleration from a dead stop (engine torque pulling on the front worn out mount), the torque rod bushings being broken or excessive vibration while driving the car. The front motor mount takes the most stress. Simple test: With the hood open and the engine running, have someone observe the engine (looking at it from the side of the car). Place the transmission in drive, use your left foot to apply the brakes (also use the parking brakes) and rev the engine with your right foot. If your partner sees the engine tilting up a lot during the rev up, the front mount is considered shot. It's normal for it to tilt a little but not a lot. If the front mount is really bad, the sides are probably stressed out as well to compensate for the worn out front mount. Also, worn mounts will place stress on your exhaust down pipe and could wear out its flex pipe resulting in exhaust leaks and noise.

Torque Specs:

1. Upper engine movement torque strut: 47 lbs
2. Driver side transmission mount nuts: 70 lbs
3. Passenger side lower motor mount nuts: 70 lbs
4. Front side motor mount bolt: 64 lbs

Toyota Camry, Avalon, Lexus ES 300/330 (02-06) & Toyota Solara (02-08) Haynes Repair Manual (Does not include information specific to the 2005 and later 3.5L V6 engine.)

Parts & Specialty Tools:

Anchor 9211 Front Engine Mount

Anchor 9212 Engine Mount (Passenger Side)

Anchor 9165 Transmission Mount

Milwaukee Electric Tools 2558-20 Fuel Ratchet M12 Fuel 1/2" Ratchet (Tool Only)

M18 Fuel Onekey 1/2" High Torque (1,400 lbs!) Impact Wrench

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This is probably the most straight to the point video I have ever seen on YouTube

timchen
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Forget all those other videos about motor mounts this is the only one we need thank you guys.

omarsedano
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Bro u are a g, no bs talking about some unrelevant crap like these other guys do, just to the point in and out easy.

brandon
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Just completed all 4 mounts. To get the front mount out of the engine compartment, I removed the transmission line inlet from the radiator. Took about 2 hrs total. Thanks again for the excellent video!!!!

timstimus
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Great job..very professional and to the point. I'm glad to see people like you are helping hard working folks save a few bucks.

shannonmonroe
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You made it look so easy. I think everything is easier when you have the right tools and knowledge. Thanks

eddiewilliams
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This makes so much sense. I was stupid enough to try to do 1 at a time and it was a nightmare!!!! Great work and procedure!

JamesAutoDude
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The very best automotive do it yourself video I have ever seen on You Tube and the internet... This guy deserves a standing ovation... Perhaps a vacation to Maui... I wish this guy was close to me. I need a new best friend... Thank you very much for this fantastic, informative very detailed no nonsense video ever...

albykeneth
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This was the best car repair video I have ever seen. Everything you need to know and no B's! Great job!!!

mikeleschber
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Thank you so much I just replaced all mines and I did it by myself! Your video was a lot of help... I wish I had some power tools to make it easier and faster but I still got it done.

juniorblack
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Great demonstration. Slowed down on key points and fast forward on quick easy areas to avoid complications. Thanks again for helping everyone out. I know it did to me 👍

edgarfrancisco
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Best DIY video EVER! This is how you do it folks!

mikeguillen
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I had to replace the control arms on an 06 solara following your videos and the mounts took the longest to accomplish because of the lower clearance on the solara. The solution that worked was to lower the subframe some while jacking up the pan. Took me 2 days to accomplish this for the first time but now I learned something. Thanks again for your videos.

drakeforte
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The amount of information and how detailed you showed everything on the angling of the camera was amazing bro you definitely earned my sub! I love your content keep it up 🔥

Girlslovevannii
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Thanks for putting this video together. It's clear enough to do the job. Just a couple of minor comments. It appears the torque strut you replaced was not original. The original torque strut should have had rubber covers on the front-most part of the strut. For those who are replacing this part, you should put the two covers from the original strut onto your replacement strut since they serve as a damper for the strut. If you don't, at times when the strut twists, it will hit against the metal mounting bracket. Those covers will ensure the metal-to-metal rubbing doesn't happen. Lastly, providing the torque specs would have been helpful. Overall though, this is a very helpful video. So, thanks again.

dadsboys
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Thank you so much.
You saved me alot of money.

lalajee
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Kudos for getting right to it, and not spending five or ten minutes blabbing about what's ahead.

Krakondack
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Okay the jack with the block of wood on it was pretty damn slick, man. I was expecting a chainfall and all kinds of stuff but WOW.

Runner
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you made this look so easy jefe! thanks for showing us the short cut! Pretty amazing how you can save so much time doing this job! Thanks for sharing! I subbed!

MoeEbi
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@2:35 would you happen to know what the bolt size is for the motor mount bracket? The previous owner got into a wreck and the guy that sold it to me didn't tell me about it and patched it up with JB weld. Now I have to swap out the upper oil pan...

thelthrythquezada