How To Replace An Alternator On A Toyota RAV4 (2005-2012)

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Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brain Eslick. #howtoautomotive
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Thanks man this saved me $500 no joke.

thomilcat
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Instructions were exceptionally helpful! Toyota dealership wanted just shy of $700. I spent $150 at the parts store and did the job in about 1.5 hours thanks to your video!

afouche
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Thank you for this video! I have never worked on my cars but was quoted $805 to replace the alternator in my 2011 Rav4. I bought the alternator at Auto Zone for less than $200 and replaced it myself using only this video. You saved me $600!! Thank you SO much!

jennafralish
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I can't thank you enough for this video! You saved me a ton of money that I don't have at the moment!
Using your detailed instructions, I was able to successfully complete the job on my 2009 2.5L RAV4 in 1.5 hours. The worst part of the job for me was trying to get the belt off, and then back on the alternator. I didn't have a long wrench for the belt tensioner so I had to improvise and use a short wrench with a metal tube as an extension.

GibsonGuitarPlayer
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The 90 dislikes are from dealerships that wanted your $800+ and are now losing out.

thomaswetmore
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Your video is helping people out 6 years later! Thanks for the help!

cadillacchris
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Thank you SO MUCH. I drove my car to college this morning and all was well until I went to leave. With this video, my dad and I were able to get this fully replaced in about an hour and a half. My car's engine bay looked exactly like the one shown in the video. The hardest part was putting the drive belt back on.

The one tool I wish we had that I saw used in the video was the 18" combination ratcheting wrench with flex heads. Having that extra leverage would have made it a hell of a lot easier.

My cars specs: 2009 Rav4 2.5L 4cyl

It is one of the Asian imported vehicles so it has a vin starting with J. Apparently some things vary compared to non-imported 2009 Rav4s but I didnt have any issues despite that.

skleenis
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6 years later and this video is still doing its job. Thanks for the quick, no nonsense description of what to do. I should be able to bang this job out in no time at all.

dnr
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People like you who post how to videos are the ones that help make my life easier and I thank you for :-)

jeffsullivan
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A warning to anyone buying a rebuilt one, I got one with messed up threads and when I brought it back the next one had messed up threads as well. On the second one since we knew ahead the manager at the parts store broke out a thread cleaning kit and cleaned them up and it went in perfectly fine. I was very glad I brought one of the bolts when I went back

stevenkarroll
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This man knows how to make a Video! Instant Subsribe from this guy. Clear concise no back and forth on instructions there are no questions left to be asked. Way to go Brian.

Daydreamcub
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Excellent video that saved me a ton of cash! The only thing I did differently was putting the serpentine belt around the AC pump last. I struggled for a while trying to get it over the alternator last. FYI Oreillys has a tool loaner program if you wanted to deposit money for a belt tensioner release tool - FYI it works best with a socket not the box wrench attachment.

johnmcallister
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thanks, helpful video, releasing the tension pulley required a 16 socket on my 2007 and the correct ratchet was key. Also, my life time warranty replacement alternator from NAPA ($188 with core) was slightly to narrow between the hinge points where the long bolt and bracket had to go through. A small file for 5 minutes did the trick only after i battled for 30 minutes to force it in and broke a part of the casing. Do the right thing the first time.

nicolaasvanwyk
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Thanks for posting this. You saved me $200 for install. It ended up taking me 4 hours but I got it done. Had huge trouble with the bottom bolt alignment on the alternator, and I didn't have the proper tooling. I used a stubby wrench on the tensioner and it ended up snapping back against a bracket and it took me a while to get it off the tensioner after. Good work!

mikec
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Great video my friend!
We have a 2007 4 cil . 2.5L a mechanic once told me this is an Asian vehicle, imported, not like most made in USA. and the alternator has 1-14mm and 1-12mm holding it. The tensioner is hidden under the engine mount braket and it’s a 3/4” bolt. Belt is also different, longer and wider, hope this helps someone too, may God bless you all.

avaldovinos
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I’ve done alternators on old cars but that’s a different story. Thanks for this. Best tutorial. I think I can tackle this now 😀

kevinneill
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Here's what I did to install the new / rebuilt one

- Lube mounting bracket tabs

- Remove and lightly grease the new power feed nut

- Lube all bolt threads

- Check that bolts easily thread into new alternator's threads
>> The lower did not, as the threads were all boogered up and
>> painted over, so I had to retap with M25 x 1.25

- Silicone spray the rubber boot for the lower connector

- Slide the alternator on to the mounting bracket tabs

- Run the top, rear bolt through and finger-tighten it

- Run the lower bolt through and finger-tighten it
>> In practice, this is easier to do with
- Deep 14 mm socket w/ a lobster claw rubber on for grip
- Stand to the right of the alternator
- Reach down with right hand to "finger tighten" lower bolt w/ 14
mm socket

- Ratchet tighten all thread bolts

- Return the lower alternator connector and its rubber boot

- Return the power feed connector, tighten the 10 mm nut, and return
the plastic cover

- Return the alternator belt

- Return the coolant overflow tank, tightening down the two 10 mm
bolts

- Return the cowling cover, replacing clips as needed

- Clean negative battery terminal and post

- Reconnect negative battery terminal and post

- Test run the car
>> Just like the last time I replace battery, the car started
fine, but then stalled some 10 seconds later. Restarted and
ran OK

erikthepitmaster
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I just wanted to drop in and give you a huge THANK YOU. You just saved my bacon. I watched this vid probably 10 times to make sure I did each step right. And my wife's car is all better. Thanks again. You are awesome. You've got a lifetime subscriber.

DJR
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Thanks! I'm am so glad I watched this video. The first one I watched had you removing wheels, engine mounts and having to hold the engine up with a jack! Great video. It took me less than an hour to do the job after watching your video.

eugenebalsmeier-dusz
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Excellent video, helped me replace alternator on family's 2009 4 Cyl. Rav 4, and earned me a 12 pack for sure.

jsan