One Time Padlock vs. Extractor Bits

We're making one more visit to the derpy little "one-time-use padlock" item and seeing how a set of proper extractor bits might work against that snap-off screw.

TL,DR: the bits work wonders but you have to hold the target VERY steady, making this a feasible, albeit impractical, method of attack in the field.

It's fun to play with new hardware, though!

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[Sky-._]

I love that you popularized using spring center punches for hinge attacks but still use a hammer punch for actually marking holes

[bstrickler]

Hey Dev, those are supposed to be used in a tap handle. Tap em in gently with a hammer, and then use a tap handle to remove it.

Doing it in soft aluminum will be a lot harder due to its very low shear strength though. Especially since that's annealed aluminum. They designed those padlocks extremely well to fight against covert attacks.


Aluminum is also highly notorious for galling to itself, so that is likely also what happened with the threads, which made it more of a PITA to remove. Galling is almost better than loctite in many cases.

[pfdx]

I’ve seen them used on the primary side of outdoor electrical distribution switch gear. The main goal is to keep idiots out, but if the idiot persists to the point of access, the primary will neutralize the idiot.

[smash]

Pro tip: lift up the punch after each strike to make sure you're still on center. You can angle the punch to move the divot a little bit. It's also common for the punch to jump out of the mark, so lifting it ensures you put it back properly.

Also, those extractors have a square end for use in a tap wrench. You can really feel how much they're twisting which makes them less likely to snap than if driven with a drill. You also won't shred the broken fastener as easily since it won't be turning enough to do so without you noticing and feeling it.

[motormaker]

Easy-outs are a finicky beast. They can be helpful ...and quick as a flash they snap off and become a nightmare. Two things to think about. 1. They are half the diameter and twice as brittle as the broken screw. Generally they are made from hardened tool steel. If it breaks off, it’ll take carbide to drill it out. 2. In my experience I never want the extractor to bottom out in the hole. If it bottoms out it will lose purchase on the flanks and ream the hole. I agree with two points of previous commenters. 1.Use of a tap wrench at a slow speed is probably best. 2. It’s just aluminum and not serialized so remove by your favorite method (pry-bar, bolt cutters, cordless cutoff tool, large screwdriver, hacksaw, or just an old school hammer, and replace it.

[curtishoffmann]

"What are you doing to that meter at 3AM, sir."
"Field collection, officer. This lock was a stray, and I'm taking it back to the office to return to it's owner."
"Very good work, son. Carry on."

[meoka]

You could bolt cutter it off, take it to your work van, back it off, and replace the shackle and nut when your totally legit maintenance was complete on whatever the thing was.
From the outside, it'd look like you replaced it with a new one. Upon later inspection, the stamping/number on it would be the same.

[Nitewl]

I typically carry the Speed-out branded 2-in-1 removal bits which include both a cutting bit and a removal bit as opposite ends of a 1/4" quick change bit

[lyfandeth]

Square back of bit usually means it is meant for a manual tap and die handle. Which would turn slowly.

[andhag]

I really like the AKM impact screw extractor (available on Amazon) because it creates a lot of inwards force when the extractor bit turns so there's less chance it just spins around in the hole.

[MaethorDerien]

You see them on the back of trucks trailers and trains cars a lot to secure high value cargo against tamper and theft. The reason is that you don't want to give the key to a carrier you don't control or they could steal easily so the expectation is for it to be cut off since the receiver won't have the key either. That said that style is not as common as the pin style one time locks anymore. The steel pin style typically have more tamper evidence and are harder to cut off as you need bigger bolt cutters.

I actually would love to see you try to bypass one of the pin style ones.

[joblessalex]

Those are meant to be used in a tap wrench for sure. You can't feel the bite with a drill. You need to be able to feel it catch and stop before it chews the screw material.

[FulcanelliRosetta]

Lol good video bud! Gotta love when you get to play with power tools. They go brrrr.

[thomast]

First time I've ever seen an extractor work on aluminum!

[seanconnolly]

If you've never chucked up a left-hand drill and asked your buddy to put a couple of holes in something for you, have you really lived?
"Nah, drill's brand new. You sure it's dull?"

[lloyd]

I visited Poland, in the middle of nowhere and noticed these things on their gas and electricity meters. Well I think they were these, I'd never seen anything like them before, then weirdly I get back and see your videos on them. I wish I'd taken a picture of them now to see if they are the same. I should be back there next year so I'll have a look then.

[PavoneSoftworks]

Darn, now my dreams of selling serialized one-time padlocks will go nowhere!

[iblackfeathers]

what would be interesting is if there was a way to make a reverse or counter-threading hole in the center and used something like a reverse-threaded bolt where tightening it ends up loosening the outer thread.

[jeremyboyle]

These EZ-Outs really like being used in a tap handle (like when Tapping threads), and bumped inward while starting to help get a deeper bite into the fastener. Something like a Bumpkey Hammer could probably do it?

[poprawa]

If you want new aluminium to look old you can put diluted alkaline floor cleaner or drain cleaner, it removes shine in seconds. New one of this bad boys can be as good looking as 20 yo one. Also works with skin, lack of caution is not good