What I Learned After 1 Year in My Net Zero House

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Chapters
00:00 - Intro
00:49 - Brief Recap
02:01 - The Challenges
04:32 - High Level Results
10:09 - Energy Use Breakdown
14:30 - What Would I Have Done Differently?
14:59 - What Would I Recommend?

[jpe]

Lest people worry, I will point out that a feature of induction cooktops is that nothing gets hot unless there is ferrous metal on the burner when it gets turned on. A cat walking across, or a child playing with, an induction cooktop will do nothing more than make beeping noises. The cooktop can sense that there is no pot or pan and won’t energize the burner, and the cat is completely safe.

[mwoody]

Matt, I’m going to build one more house to retire in. My main goal is to be energy independent. Energy efficiency is important to me as well. So, I’ve really enjoyed what you have been sharing with us. I’m 10 years out. I’m certain technology will change by then.

[krmr]

Essentially this is a (Western/Northern) European house, the build bears a lot of resemblance to current day (energy efficient) builds over here. No basement (because they're expensive), lot of insulation, triple glazed windows, heat pumps, energy recovery ventilation, blower door testing throughout the build and electrical smarts, PV and so on. Even the wooden framing prefab is something some people in Germany pick nowadays instead of masonry like it used to be. The heat pump driers and induction cooktops are standard over here anyhow. So yeah, Matt built a European home.

[stefanwerner]

Our 1980s house is now net zero. With the addition of 29kWp of solar panels and an air source heat pump, it produces three times as much electricity as it consumes in a given year.

[NO-mimf]

I think you need some Regen braking on your blinds to harness the down energy. Only makes sense.

[MarkShapiro-mr]

Excellent! You used every tool AND showed us how and the results. Here's what I'd love to see developed next:
1. Power over Ethernet (POE) wiring to supply the lighting (LED) and electronics and communication. It's less expensive and more efficient.
2. Optimized air flow. Short, fat, straight ducts give you the most comfort at the lowest cost. How do we incorporate that into our "perfect homes" with so many varied shapes?
3. Optimized plumbing layout. Shorter pipes means lower cost and less waiting for the shower to warm up. Gary Klein has all the data; he's smart and entertaining. Thanks again!

[hideawayhomesllc]

As a builder in Colorado's high country for 30+ years - no ridge vents? Yikes! I had to edit to say that this is a wonderful, well thought out house and that I thoroughly enjoy your videos and expertise.

[grimzadi]

I had an electric induction range installed about two months ago. I had to replace all of my aluminum cookware, but damn was it worth it! Way better than even gas.

[Merrinen]

I really dislike this trend of kitchen appliances and other electronic devices not having actual buttons.

[ecoworrier]

I was thinking about a heat pump dryer. But for the last 11 years in my passive house i just hang the laundry from a ceiling rack dryer (family of 5). The heat recovery ventilation keeps the interior air pretty dry and so it works well. The excess moisture ends up condensing in that MVHR (releasing the heat taken from the house for evaporation)"and running down the drain.

[ronquiring]

I have found the progress of your home build very interesting. I also appreciate your candor as youve described your decision making processes and challenges along the way. My main concern always has been and continues to be the financial cost involved with all the highly efficient tech. These costs are not only very high on initial purchase but also high to repair and eventually replace. Much of this is beyond the ability of the majority of us to afford.

[tims]

I live in WI so a full basement is always the best. Half my house is on a basement the other half is floor joists on a slab. There's a huge difference in the comfort level of the two parts in winter. Of course, my house is old.

[KJSvitko]

All new buildings should be designed with large roof overhangs. The large overhang provides beauty and protection from the sun, rain and wind.
Protection of the doors, windows and siding make for a more durable and comfortable home.

[CollinHeist]

72 - 75 Fahrenheit seems really warm, especially for overnight temperatures when you're sleeping. But that must be a personal preference thing

[GibsonCRG]

My family is planning our own build in your neck of the woods, and while we may do slab-on-grade, we're going to bring the entire attic into the conditioned envelope. It is kind of like having a conditioned basement on top 🙂 But it does solve issues with planning, as future additions to network, electric, plumbing etc. can be run in the attic and dropped down into the living space without concern. And, no black mold!

[backcountryFLcyclist]

Your entire homestead is cool, but seems really complicated. I installed an induction cooktop in my newly built home and so glad I did! Quickly boil water and cleanup is easy. Not to mention it is much safer compared to natural gas and electric element cooktops.

[Fyrestryke]

@undecidedMF The "heat backup" is almost certainly an electric coil heater in your air handler, which is designed to handle fast drops in temperature a heat pump cannot deal with. A secondary heat source is required by code in Ontario where I'm a builder, and I assume it would be the same in any northern states which experience similar weather patterns
.

[jaymacpherson]

Example follows of slab-on-grade challenges…
Our 2-story house, bought in 2011, was built in 1967 as slab-on-grade (bedrock excavated for slab). Original HVAC was a central furnace on the slab level to 4” ducts running under the slab to 4 registers, and 8” ducts between joists of the second floor to 10 registers. The layout is to provide heat, not cooling.

Bought central A/C unit about 2014 that occasionally had interior coils ice up due to primary return on floor of 2nd floor next to stairwell beside HVAC closet. Three other smaller returns were built either in ceiling of 1st floor (2) or in floor of master bedroom. Thus, hottest air was not captured and cooled air short circuited on first floor. A/C compressor failed in 2023 (due to my inadequate maintenance?).

Converted to central heat pump in March 2024 and extended duct of master’s return to ceiling as well as adding 3 registers to 2nd floor ceiling. Heat pump’s coils at central unit began to ice up when cooling mode went to work. After numerous experiments to focus return air to the new ceiling return, and many visits by the installer to troubleshoot, the cause was found in August…refrigerant had only been charged to half during original installation (no leaks detected).

In September several sink and tub drains slowed and worsened. Camera of sewer pipes found cast iron heavily rusted. Snaking found drainage impeded by hair.

In summary, the HVAC mods were needed due to builder’s assumption cooling would be unnecessary. Retrofitting was complicated by slab-on-grade. Sewer pipe replacement is impractical due to slab-on-grade so lining the pipes is only practical option to slow corrosion that chokes down cross-section.

And the roof needed replacement in late 2023. Too bad the planned HVAC mods expense didn’t allow for enough $$$ to buy a metal standing seam roof, as we are in a NW forest (fire?!?). Maybe the Cascadia Subduction Zone quake won’t be an issue with the house being built into bedrock? 🤞

[gardenrailroading]

Love your forever home! We started building our forever home in 1989, Washington State's "Super Good Sense Home" program. We have two heat pumps and a 2640 square foot home, currently burning 20 to 30 KW's per month. We are adding to our existing solar in January, currently we have 10-400 watt panels, we are adding 34 panels and 20KW's of battery backup. We also have two EV's to charge.

[dmdcykey]

Your thoroughness and attention to detail is going to be immensely helpful to countless people over the years that are going in this direction for their homes. Many thanks, Matt.