How to Desolder and Clean Copper Pipe and Fittings

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In this video I will be showing you how to desolder copper water pipe along with cleaning off the old solder and prepping the joint for soldering. We’re currently redoing all the plumbing in the house, some of the pipes were desoldered for removal. Desoldering maybe needed if components need to be removed or changed, there is a leak at a connection, or you’re removing pipe just like us. When working on water pipes, make sure you have turned the water supply off.

If you are working within studs, floor joists, or other flammable areas, it’s always important to take proper safety precautions so nothing becomes damaged or you cause a fire. When working around wood, I use a spray bottle with water to coat the wood. Then I put a steel barrier in place as a primary form of protection. While the steel does get hot, the flame won’t directly come in contact with a flammable object. Also, make sure any spider webs and dust have been cleaned away from the area too.

For this I am using a propane torch, I tend to use the camping style tanks as they have a larger base, keeping the torch upright with minimal risk of tipping over.

Lighting the torch is done by opening the valve of the torch a small amount until you can hear the gas flowing, then using a striker, ignition the gas.

When using a propane torch such as this, while it’s hard to see, the hottest point in the flame is the inner blue flame. The tip of the inner blue flame should be touching the pipe you want to heat up.

In my example, I can hold the pipe above the flame, however you may be required to hold the torch in place instead.

Heat the joint, I prefer to go at a slight angle towards the lowest point of the soldered connection as heat rises. The soldered joint is small enough where it’s not required to move the flame around. The reason I hold the flame at an offset from the soldered joint is to prevent any dripping solder from falling inside the torch.

The copper pipe will become hot, to make it manageable by hand, I’m wearing leather welding mitts. They won’t burn like other styles of gloves and have some resistance to the hot pipe.

Once that joint is hot enough, then pull apart the connection. You’ll need to be quick at this as the joint can cool off and the gloves are only resistant to the heat, they won’t stop the heat transfer when holding on close to the joint area for longer periods.

The same process can be used on the valve and you can also use the assistance of interlocking pliers. Just be careful when using pliers as you can mare or deform the pipe. When working with a valve, the amount of time required to heat up the joint will most likely be longer as the material is thicker. Some valves can be disassembled so you don’t damage the seals or you can have a wet cloth wrapped around the valve portion to keep the section cool. If you’re careful, other valves can be heated as is without any issues. Use the same process as between, heat the soldered section, allow the solder to liquify, then pull the connection apart.

If you are working with pipes still in place, the water must be drained from the system. Even a small amount of water present in the line, especially around the joint will cause problems where it can’t heat up properly. If you’re unable to heat the joint for separation, then you may need to work on a higher joint or just cut the pipe.

I prefer using a file to remove any thicker build-up of solder, being careful not to damage the copper pipe. Any damage to the copper pipe or making the pipe thinner will jeopardize its structure.

Next is using 180 grit emery paper to remove the rest of the solder. Not all of it needs to be removed, it just needs to be removed enough where it can fit into a new fitting. I already have a new fitting to test it out. Wrap the sandpaper around the pipe so it takes off material evenly.

Test the fit, once it’s good, you can finish up with a scuffing pad, this is rated at 400 grit. The scuffing pads are a great way of cleaning up copper pipes before and after soldering, they leave a clean satin finish behind.

Internal cleaning would have a similar procedure, but it is a little more work-intensive and time consuming. A file it’s recommended as it’s harder to use, you’ll have to roll a piece of sandpaper instead and twist it inside the soldering surface. A round wire brush can sometimes work too.

When done, once those connections are cleaned, they’re then ready for solder. Any leftover solder on the surface will liquefy and flow back into the joint with the new solder.

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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

[cookerdonkin]

Excellent. I came to your video specifically wanting to understand how best to remove the old solder (and whether I need to remove ALL of it) after taking a leaking soldered joint apart, before I remake it with the old components. Your video was the first one I found that gave a complete and reassuring answer. Many videos deal with taking old soldered joints apart, but skate over the steps needed to reuse the old components. Thank you for taking the time to film and post this and for the choice of keywords in your Title, which acted like a magnet!

[xpane]

I was a Coppersmith in the shipyards. I used fine steel wool to clean off the old solder after sweating off the old copper joints. It saves a lot of time because you don't have to use emery cloth to cleanup of dirty contaminated solder. Also, if you don't have steel wool you can get the pipe hot and use a wet rag and wipe the hot solder off the copper pipe. It's even easier than using steel wool and less clean up also. Some guys don't have steel wool and it saves a trip to the store this way. Just be careful and use leather gloves while doing this.

[itsgabegutierrez]

I used to think the old solder had to be removed completely. That makes it difficult and time consuming. But I recently learned that's not the case. This is much better!

[lar]

Nice, nice vocal presentation coupled with visual examples . And you got right to the point without explaining all about how important it is to have non leaky pipes, how I can save money doing it myself, blah, blah blah .

[franklago]

Great video and info on using old copper pipes.

[alanbricker]

Nice to see an informative video, professionally done.

[Nyck]

Excellent video. The only issue is when you need to do this desolder in a enclosed area.. For example: inside of a wall, where is not possible to twist the pipe.

[jeffreywolf]

I prefer mapp gas for my plumbing needs because it heats up faster and just seems to work better. Especially for larger pipes

[cardboardorigami]

I came here exactly to see your technique on cleaning inside of a fitting.

[epiccollision]

The hottest part of a flame is the end of the flame where the fuel has given up all its energy. The light blue flame is fuel to be consumed and moving very fast.

[arcadion]

Is there a visual indicator you use to determine when the solder has melted enough to pull off the joint or fitting?

[genecurrivan]

With the price of copper what it is, reuse is the only way to go. I was hoping for some magic trick... There is none.. The welding gloves are essential as pliers are cumbersome and it's easy to gaul the pipe/fittings as you twist. . For internal surfaces I use a Dremel with a course burr on it. Solder seems to build up there for obvious reasons. It's time intensive any way you want to look at it. One hint: Rap the still hot fitting on a work bench or other safe surface to get as much as the solder off as possible... Thanks for the confirmation...

[nxtixso]

Can I clean up an old joint and heat it up without removing the joint and finish it with additional solder? The lead is strongly bonded and brittle. More regular white flux is no use. I need to strengthen the solder without removing a jucntion

[alstevens]

After desolder & cleaned can I install a sharkbite

[thomasngo]

To reused the fitting, can you heat the fitting up to melt the the solder and slip it back on the pipe and then keep heating the pipe and the fitting to the right temperature and add more solder to it? Oh per hap do the same thing to the pipe without the cleaning the solder.

[itsnotallrainbowsandunicor]

I was watching a friend of mine trying remove a valve. The only issue was the pipe was still pressurized. The aftermath was the funniest sh.. I had ever seen.

[GaryYoung-eqph]

Your doing it the easy safe way, what about when it's hooked up 5 inches away from the wall, and the 2 turn off valve?

[wandaleatherbury]

is it a good ideat o fix a leak talk about that for ahaf hour

[luissonoma]

Yeah, I didn’t clean the inside of the old fittings & now it’s leaking. 🤦🏿‍♂️

[irishmike]

Easy you don't. Repeated heating and cooling causes hydrogen embrittlement and makes the pipe brittle. Do it once and do it right.