BIGGEST PROBLEM With LED REPLACEMENT BULBS In Your Car Or Truck!!!

In this video I show, what I think is, the biggest problem with LED replacement bulbs for your car or truck! These LEDs are awesome right? Bright white light that looks modern and uses very little energy... But, there is one major downside and that is, they don't last that long. I've been on a search to try and find a better LED replacement bulb and I'm hoping I've found one.

Let me know your thoughts in the comment section below!

***This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!***

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[maeb]

I bought the same LED bulbs, all I need now is a car.

[robertmunroe]

I’ve got 10 of the “newer” board style 194’s spread over three vehicles, none have failed. For backup/tail/turn signals, the brand Luyed has been great. I’ve also got one pair of SeaLight LED headlight bulbs in our Ford Ranger; again, no problems. The maker of this video is correct, there’s a ton of cheap junk out there; guess I just got lucky with Luyed & SeaLight. I can’t overstate how great the change is with new LED interior lights, literally like night & day. Cheers, safe motoring.

[rhetoricaltourism]

I've had these Sealight 194 bulbs installed in my 2005 Chevy Malibu Maxx for over a year now and I can safely say that they are a huge upgrade from the other 194 LEDs you've shown. One of my favorite differences - the Sealight bulbs don't care about polarity! The crappier 194 LEDs need to be installed with the proper polarity otherwise they won't light up - the extra circuitry that's visible between the contacts takes care of the polarity preference that LEDs have on their own. Very, very useful feature when installing a large number of bulbs - nothing is worse than plugging them in, reinstalling your trim, then realizing you've got the polarity wrong! The Sealight LEDs are the closest things I've seen to direct replacement for 194 incandescents on the market thus far. Great summary video!

[terryarcher]

The new bulbs you purchased are definitely the way to go... for two important reasons. I had those types with the thin wires as contacts to the socket. What I experienced were dimmed lights after the normal 15 - 30 secs most vehicle allow after exiting the car. Due to the poor connectivity and shielding, any residual current caused the bulbs to remain in.. ever do slightly. The residual current is normal in cars and is not enough to light up factory halogen bulbs. Some suggested using the resistor technique to eliminate dimming, but I first researched different designs. The design that eliminated the dimming, are the ones you switched to. The metal ( or whatever it is) shields the residual current picked up by the little wires of the first led set you showed. The second reason is simple the build, more solid and the thicker base (I found) makes a more secure connection. Bottom line they just seat better than the wiggly older led types. Great video btw 👍

[gmctech]

I've been dabbling with LED bulbs for over 10 years now and I think this may be the best real life review and information video I've seen to date. Well done and thank you for taking the time to post it!

[branzfactor]

I love car videos, and I’ve been watching a lot of yours lately, but the ending just makes me want to watch even more. 🙌🏼

[wodsonheleno]

Hey man. I'm an electronics engineer whom designed led lighting fixtures. You're totally right. The problem about replacement led bulbs is that the original housing is not designed to dissipate heat so, the LEDs work harder. The heat is an enemy of LEDs. Other than that's these cinese bulbs uses crappy LEDs, so they will color shift and loose loose luminous flux very rapidly with the time. Ok, it costs 1 dollar anyway. A decent led costs one dollar itself. Unfortunate there's no miracle. All these retrofit LEDs suffer from the lack of dissipation by design. Be ready to replace it in a medium therm. Keep the good working. Peace brow.

[Hundert]

LED bulbs also attract less bugs, flies, insects. Keep up your excellent research and reporting. I definitely like the white light. The white light is much brighter and looks more like natural sunlight. God Bless, Prost

[TMDCrysis]

Well.. A free advice.


If you want some really quality led bulbs, then look for those who have voltage stabilizer. They usually came with load resistors to match the original consumption of the original bulb that you are about to replace. So... you end up with a really good light and with good led bulbs that will last a decade.

[dvoz]

I have changed my interior and daylight bulbs with those color changing led's. At nighttime its sometimes pleasant to have red light in the car for reading.

[pauljs]

I'd probably stick with the classic incandescent until they get some out with a warmer color temperature. The ones in this example are still too blue. (Technically they should be available, but what's on the shelves varies still.)

[harryberry]

1ROAD...They're called contacts not electrodes AND in newer cars and trucks have ECU's that monitor practically everything (including lighting) they will very often "throw a fault code" usually on your dashboard which if you choose the wrong bulb that isn't designed properly you'll get a fault code.Most better quality LED bulbs will state they won't throw a fault code. Everything else was spot on. It's like you said trial and error much of the time. Funny thing is LED's have been around now for a few years and many Chinese manufactures (where almost 100% come from) haven't figured out how to make them work properly and last yet. It's best to find a forum for your particular car and find out what others recommend instead of trial and error.

[A.N.T..N.I.]

Thanks for the video, very helpful, very clear voice, no profanity used, subscribed, never ashamed of the Gospel, love it.

[ClarkTobanRobbins]

From Amazon, Yorkim makes really nice LED bulbs. They even have Canbus type LED's. Used for vehicles that sense the trucks bulbs for voltage changes. Such as the Ram currently. To tattle that the bulb is out, older LED's the voltage is different and the truck would throw errors, message that it's out, not so with the Canbus bulbs.

[kosteg]

Hi, I have to cool down your enthusiasm. If you are using led bulbs with „canbus” description you are not saving any power consumption at all. Bulbs with „canbus” description are designed for cars with bulb malfunction monitoring system (not only can of course). It’s hot and cold system for checking if there is everything ok with wolfram wire inside standard bulb. One is monitoring bulb when its off (resistance of cold wolfram wire) second is monitoring working one (resistance or current of hot wolfram wire). So, to cheat the monitoring system producers of the “canbus” bulbs are using additional resistors and capacitors to achieve same current or same resistance as original wolfram bulb - this is the only way. Finally we have a led bulb with exactly the same power consumption as standard wolfram one...

[stevej]

I got a full set for my 2003 4Runner off Amazon and three went out pretty quick so I bought another set so I would have spares of everything, fixed the three that had gone out and it's been a little over 2 years now and no more have gone out. I replaced my bumpers with steel offroad bumpers and the front came with led indicator lights which caused hyperblink so I had to add a resistor to both blinkers and it's all solved now. I like the LED bulbs better by far.

[fredkuhn]

LEDs are so overrated. I buy them and like them, but they don’t last hundreds of thousands of hours or whatever crap they claim

[transmitterguy]

As an electronic tech, I see the problems with LED lights made for vehicles, are mostly the fragility of the solder connections. Solder is soft and or brittle depending on the mix. Heating and cooling caused by outside temps and operating temps cause these joints to expand and contract (Any older TV techs that worked on the old TV'S from the seventies, made with griplets, will understand), then the joints over time, will crack causing intermittent operation, or total or partial failure, of the bulb. To reduce this "movement" I have been experimenting with clear gluing and saturating the base area, if its a bayonet type, with Gorilla clear glue. It is thick like woodworkers glue but not water based to cause corrosion or to thin like super glue. The LED bulbs I have coated, have held up well to any heat generated by the LED bulb and the dried glue seams to be hard but not brittle. Try this procedure and see how it works for you guys. The Gorilla glue is available at Wally world with the other Gorilla products.

[krisdmeredith]

Great Comparison! I'd like to install in the gauge cluster, but still need the ability to use the dimmer as well, so they aren't Eye Piercing bright. Did you by chance do a test to see how they do while using the dimmer function of the light switch?

[crabbcake]

I swapped all my builbs 8 years ago. (I did headlights but had to switch back couldn't align correctly) . Including brake and signal lights, reverse. They all still work great ! None of them have burned out. Maybe the earlier versions are better ? Reverse is much brighter than stock.