How to Solder Copper Pipe #shorts

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Quick tutorial on how to solder copper pipe for plumbing, using flux, a torch and solder.

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Welcome to the official April Wilkerson YouTube channel! I’m April and I’m the creator of Wilker Do’s. I am an obsessed DIYer and Woodworker. I'm not professional or have any training, so I just pick the project I want to tackle and figure it out step by step. On this channel you will find a variety of content like DIY home improvement, How-To’s, construction, design and more!

#aprilwilkerson #solder #plumbing
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plumber here....touch the solder on the opposite side of the flame: this ensure the entire joint is coated. step 6: Use flux to clean the joint step 7: wipe off with a rag to avoid gross looking green copper oxide.

jonathandevries
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If you don’t mind April, I have quite a bit experience soldering copper. Next time have the heat directly opposite of where you’re going to solder and place the solder on the copper until it starts melting and then let it flow around towards the heat. That is how I was taught and it is done me good over the years.

ralphwoodard
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To my plumbers and HVAC techs out there. She has to oversimplify for the youtube short. I was about to critique as well, but really cant say anything as she works on projects and has a shop that I could only imagine. Inspiring people to be encouraged to learn more and failing at your first project are the stepping stones of life.

Bored
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Don't forget to clean the joint after soldering. Otherwise the flux residue is going to corrode the joint over time.

PyroShim
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If you want to reduce the oversoldering, apply from below capillary action will suck it up until you have the right amount on. Just have to watch the top.

markp
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Yet people go to school just to learn.this. this video can save you money thank you!

jeepbeefguyer
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And use a Mapp gas torch (like you did but didn't mention) instead of a normal blue propane torch. The yellow canister Mapp gas burns hotter and makes it all go faster & easier.

jimhatch
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Hello from France Mrs Wilkerson.
This is the right way !
Much safer than the last vidéo with orange tubes !
You can use as well
BRASURE A L ARGENT, witch is even stronger
Another 👍 for your excellent advice
Stay safe. ( silver brazed joints)

harmsworthcharles
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Use at least 1/2 inch for 1/2 inch pipe and so on. Heat from the bottom- heat rises wipe joint with a rag

davidmartenot
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Step 0? - Make sure you have the right type of gas. I used to have a horrible time soldering copper pipe until I switched from Propane (blue can) to MAPP (yellow can).

Step x? - Remember a little bit of solder goes a long way. Just to be sure, I usually flood 3x more solder in a joint than is actually needed, making a mess of the pipe/floor. I guess more practice would help get a feel for how much is actually needed.

serisman
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I was taught that a joint should use about as much solder as the diameter of the pipe/fitting. If it is 1" pipe/fitting, put a bend in your solder that leaves about 1" at the tip. That way you'll know when you have melted enough solder into the joint.

rfdunbar
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It's interesting to read some of the comments here, even from others that claim to be plumbers 😊

There is nothing wrong with the creation of this joint, except for the use of soft solder. Soft solder tends to deteriorate over time and could leak. Silver solder is better and produces a stronger joint.
The comment about aggressive heat is usually a factor of the mapp torch.
The position and control of the torch was good. Heating from below generally induces too much great that is harder to control.
Heating the pipe first wastes too much gas as the heat flows down the pipe and away from the joint. (The solder may have a tendency to flow along the pipe and not into the fitting.)
Heating the fitting is the correct method as the pipe receives heat via the fitting, this allows the solder to flow in towards the fitting and cover the pipe and fitting as required.
Well done April, a good demo.

ZenMinus
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Heat the pipe first so heat flows down it into the pipe in fitting then heat the fitting.

jkbrown
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Fascinating! I never knew how these parts were actually connected.

dougietheteaboy
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You should always heat from the bottom of the joint 1st(if possible). This just shows from the top only.

SyNdicateZ
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You should bend the solder with the length of the bend being the diameter of the pipe. That’s the correct amount of solder.

neomacchio
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To clean the pipe do we need some special brush or the brush for metal is good enough? For aluminium you need special brush thats why i asking..

lacihalasz
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As a licensed professional plumber, I just cringed. As pointed out by others, you need to debur, preferably with a sharp pencil reamer. If not, a sharp utility knife will do. Just cut it out. Any burr on the inside will cause turbulence, and that causes water to crash into the pipe downstream from the burr and will eventually wear the pipe thin and cause it to fail.

You're heating completely wrong. You heat the pipe FIRST. Don't assume the pipe gets heated with the heating of the fitting. In fact, it's common to get a much cooler pipe than the fitting if you're using L or K copper or comparable.

Your particular joint most likely has a v-shaped void of solder at the bottom if it was cut open and inspected. That's because you heated the joint from the top. You should heat the joint from the bottom. Heat rises...

Technically, you should feed solder from 6 o'clock to 1 o'clock, 5 o'clock to 11 o'clock, then bridge the top, moving the torch with the solder feed, heating from the back of the fitting with the flame pointed to the pipe. Its a little less necessary on something 1" or less in diameter, but it is the correct way to solder - bottom up. Solder will run to the heat, and the top of the fitting is the hottest.

You want to avoid bare spots in your joint. It's less likely in your situation, but the emergence of lead free fittings poses a bigger problem soldering and is something to be concerned with.

Lastly, you should heat the joint up to accept the solder and pull the flame away, keeping it only hot enough for the solder to melt. I've seen a whole lot of beginners overheat the joints and have gaping holes on top of the fitting, or, worse, burning up the flux and the solder just rolls off and the joint won't accept the solder. Even worse is when someone continually feeds solder to an overheated fitting and the pipe gets filled up and closed off from all the solder that went in.

ruelsmith
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Ms. April, The issue I had recently was soldering joints close together, and accidentally over heating the joint next to it and causing a leak. How far apart should solder joints be?

argyleforge
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Never soldered really so can someone tell me, is that paste stuff she puts on flux?

AaronB