Micro Traxion Testing for Lead Rope Solo

Climbers that do rope solo climbing often use the Micro Traxion by Petzl to manage the cache loop. Some do trailing backup knots and the question is if they would survive if the main device became disconnected. This is the first time I see this tested. More test is needed but the solution is promising.

[hermannwagner]

So many people in the comments mention that the micro trax, doesnt catch the fall because it is installed in reverse... You clearly have no idea about lead rope soloing and apparently didnt even watch the intro. He explains why it is installed like that, its not supposed to be a test of how well the micro traxions "tooth" catch, its supposed to show how it could work as a backup in combination with knots, if your main solo device fails completely. This was a very great test and it makes me trust my lrs system even more, now that i know the traxion would hold a fall. Thanks alot!

[MarkusSchaeffer]

I just wanted to drop a "thanks a lot" for the testing and the videos. I frickle with the cash loop and also was wondering about the micro traxion. Very well done. I like the content a lot and it helps me in what I am trying out an awful lot. Greetings from Bawaria/Germany. Markus

[chinguskim]

Awesome test man. Glad to see the knot "works". This is super helpful because I was thinking about trying stopper knots in the rope before climbing and I wasn't sure the effort was worth it.

[paulmessikommer]

Great vid ! Great test ! I'm studying your online course at the moment. Just bought the LOV2 today, for Top rope and Lead solo ! And this test gives me a lot a confidence to rely on the micro traxion as back up device, with trailing knots... ! I'll buy the rest of the material this Saturday ! Great content, thank you so much !

[leonard]

Some smaller size maillon rapides have small enough inside widths to potentially block the slip knot as well. A 6 mm maillon rapide (rated to 17 kN) has an inside width of 16 mm, compared to an edelrid spoc with an inside width of 15 mm (will increase when loaded as demonstrated with the micro traxion). The maillon rapide could be attatched via a short sling on the waist belt behind the micro traxion or similar device, giving two backups to the main device which should hopefully block the slip knot if the main device were to break or become disconnected. Thanks for the video!

[AkumuTaeru]

I found using the narrow end of a gridlock style carabiner was helpful to keep any carabiner locking mechanism from preventing smooth feeding in a tr solo situation (in addition to the intended prevention of crossloading). The super narrow basket of those carabiners, which are meant for belay loops, actually fit the microtraxion just barely, and would probably do even better at keeping the microtraxion from peeling apart than an oval.

[flashclimber]

Now do a top rope solo test with the mini trax and falls of 2m or more. See what damage it does to the rope if you fall more than 1, 2, and 3m. Try it with a dynamic rope and then a static rope to see the difference. To mix it up, throw in a WC ropeman 2 to see if that does more or less damage. Keep the videos coming, they are enjoyable.

[TrueGoat-Bahhh]

You rock man, thanks for the tests, just found somewhere i can get a MT local too .

[fugley]

8:50 great new info for me and I now use and have been using a pair of micros for about three years.

[Tony-w]

I think that micro traxion is supossed to provide the necessary amount of friction to engage the grigri than absorbing the force. The little friction would make the grigri to engage and stop the fall

[mccrashington]

Why not use a prussik and minding pulley as the backup? No remembering to tie or relying on slip knots, no ruining an expensive device, no hoping an unweighted 'biner is in the right orientation when you need it.

You could still use a device to just manage your cache loop.

Not a climber but a rope rescue tech that stumbled on this video.

[djayers]

Great stuff! Was dreading how your daughter would be involved :) A couple of things I'd be curious about for future tests would be - system behaviour without knot and (if you have the length), full grigri [space] - microtrax [space] - knot. Also for Kong Duck (I don't have a microtrax).

[bebopthewanderer]

Very interesting experiment. It would have been nice to see what would happen if the traxion was connected to the harness. I dont use that method myself but I like to see the what ifs.

[ushi]

Thank you very much for the video. I got it right?
You need the cam in the micro traxion only to hold the slack or cache of the climbing rope?
The climber fall will be stopped by the Slipknot's, right?
Question:
Why you don't use a simple and cheap pulley and a prusik behind?
Suggestions:
If you want to reduce the waith, instead you can use a SHIZLL - ROPESLIDER and a prusik behind.
With this setup the climber-fall has to be stopped by the prussik, so please use a 22kn certified prusik with sewn eyes (for arborists).
The prusik will hold the rope slack or rope cache perfectly.
Cheers

[federicoezequielmackin]

....now THIS is what you do on your day out with the kid !

[tgbuckley]

Hey Yann, love the video and thanks for all the good work! I'm interested - have tried this or a similar test using different slip knots (different orientations, loosely tied) to see if the slip knot can untie itself under extreme force? Cheers 👍

[shoqed]

Awesome video. Good to know that the microtrax will hold even if it's not its function!

What would you think about putting another, opposed microtraxion (or similar device) between microtraxion and grigri? It would act like a belayer's hand on breaking strand of rope during a fall. Of course to feed slack you would have to disengage the second trax by pulling on the cam.

[JamesZJi]

so the Micro Traxion internal lock is not doing anything to catch the rope??

[anthonylijewski]

In order to test falls on the micro traction you want the device oriented the other way with the carabiner hole facing up, this allows the toothed cam to actually engage. According to the frame at 8:40 this would be the reverse setup. you want to flip the device the other direction

[danielmahdal]

Please, READ THIS - ALL OF YOU, check time 8:25, do you know why the bag hit the ground or knot? Because you gave the microtraxion in oposite direction or side, just think a litle bit. Try it one more time and you will surprise how the micro will catch the fall.