How to Top Rope Solo the way that I Top Rope Solo

A guide on how to Top Rope Solo, the way that I do.

After much testing and trialing, this is my method for top rope soloing.

I use the Petzl MicroTraxion and Climbing Technologies Roll n Lock. Various carabiners, and various slings. It seems to work well.

[mikeglo]

I first watched this about a year ago and bought and used the gear you highlight. I distinctly remember the beautiful lake! A year later, when I needed a refresher, I found your video, among dozens of others, by the lake in the thumbnail! Great video and great way to distinguish it from others. Cheers!

[Michael-bvjr]

This is the best tutorial for top rope solo that Ive seen. Great job man.

[darrylcombe]

Great video. Completely agree with climbing well within your limits when top rope soloing. It's not about pushing the grades it is about experiencing the freedom of self-sufficiency.

[natebracalente]

I love the title of your video. So unassuming

[iloveadventures]

I just went back to rope after 21 years... didn't know of this technique, thank-you!!!!

[Sicnus]

I could look at that lake shot all day. LOL. Nice, thanks for posting.

[jamesward]

Hey, great video. Keep up the great content! Just wanted to add something. For your secondary device, Petzl recommends using an energy absorber like the Nitro Absorber instead of a sling if using a toothed secondary. If the first device fails you could potentially take a factor 2 fall (2x connector length) on the secondary device and the cams teeth can damage the sheath. Petzl did some tests on this and 185cm of sheath were torn in the test. They recommend using a cam-loaded secondary (rescuscender) if not using the energy absorber. Keep up the great climbing and content!

[Vanillafox]

Solid vid. Def one of the better top rope solo vids out there

[hughchalmers]

Nice video! Would love to see some footage of a full climb to stitch all the advice together

[GiorgosPlanar]

Great video. Your system seems both practical with good built in redindancy. Looking forward to use it due to shortage of partners and erratic personal schedules. Just secretly hoping to be able to climb hard as well or at least train moves on hard projects for later sending properly...

[benmorgan]

Great tutorial some great points nice set up it’s seems safe you could try improving your anchor setup abit by lower the overhand on the sling closer to the master point so if the top bolt was to fail then the fall would be shorter also you could try adding another double figure 8 and clipping it into the carabiner to make the lines independent that’s just my opinion but if your system works for you then no reason to change it

[richardshields]

I agree, for top rope solo this looks like the best technique yet...simple and safe

[johnliungman]

Very nice! Good to see you using two ropes. It might look cluttered but adds a lot of safety and makes transitions to/from abseiling a whole lot smoother! The only time I would use only one rope would be if the route is too long to double up my rope.

[adaptivo]

This looks thought out and seems to be safe enough to my eyes. I would rule out the extension potential at the bolts but that’s just me and it’s been said already.
Looks lovely out there.. nice..

[Lambda]

Very clear and well thought-out, thanks for the video. Only comment is that I would suggest you equalise your anchors at the top with a non extending setup (just a fig-8 on a bite for example). Here you show a sliding x, you have 'limiter' knots but they are too far away imo. If the top bolt fails (unlikely, yes, especially when only top roping but..) with that much separation between the bolts there's' a high chance that sling will fail from the shock load of all that extension.

[ananda_miaoyin]

Love top rope solo. Just got in to it. Sometimes I will use a static line if the route is less than 100 feet but if not, I whip out the Long Running Bastard - an 80 meter dynamic. I can double that one and go on two strands. Good times but sucks for feeding devices. I use a ropeman 1 and a shunt but lately I have just been using the ropeman.
Rappelling, being the fun part - I like to go fast. No grigris or ATC. Straight to the Big 8!
Keep climbing!

[theoutdoorangler]

Nice video, I’ve always used a static line but if you don’t have one, dynamic works but I can’t imagine it’s better. Cheers

[richardbennett]

your fear of the two devices blocking each other is justified. nice workaround!

[FallLineJP]

Awesome video, thanks so much for putting this together!

[luizbomeny]

hey man, nice vid! how do you unload the tension on the roll n lock to disengage it when transitioning to rapel? many thanks