Top Rope Solo Climbing Devices MYTH

The myth: "teeth are bad and will damage your rope when top rope soloing"!!! People talk about teeth, smooth and ridges... ONLY dynamic drop tests, static pull tests and experience should prevail as to what devices are safer / more dangerous.

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0:00 Introduction
0:30 Teeth are bad for your rope (or are they?)
2:18 Ridges are safer (or are they?)
4:17 Smooth devices (no teeth no ridges): Are they the safest?
5:45 Conclusion

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[JohnnyIDive]

Great content Yann, your videos are very informative, thank you for taking time to make them, well done!

[obalasmora]

I use Camp Lift and Singing rock Locker, both of them seems very safe to me... No teeth, no ridges so damage to the rope is almost non exsistent...
Camp lift(smaller) goes on the belay loop, Locker(bigger) is on a sling, usualy 20-30 cm...
Don't know if this is the best option, but still haven't had any problems with this setup...

[jcurtis]

I’m using rescucender and microtraxion, each on its own rope. I’m mainly climbing 5.6-5.8 and feel secure (aspiring intermediate climber). Following petzyl’s recommendation. Thx for the video. It’s good to hear straight talk.

[stuffclimb]

personally I love my shunt, I just back it up with a jumar and it flows so nicely with me I forget it's even there. I even dyno with it on no problem. I feel as long as you don't use it without a back up, or if you do then as long as you dont squeeze the trigger before falling (which the manual tells you not to do) you should be as safe as you are on most other devices. It can be a pain in the butt when you're going over roofs though, but I feel like that's also an issue with other devices as well.

[prettyboysvc]

Another awesome video thank you Yann! I use the rollnlock and microtrax combo and now I feel even more confident in my choice. I know there’s debate about which device to use on top and which device under and I always use the rollnlock on top to avoid shredding by the microtraxion. Maybe I will switch my configuration if the microtraxion does not shred rope so easily. Seems the trax potentially interfering with the rollnlocks arm could be a bigger danger than rope shredding.

[ursklucker]

If the shunt is safe except for user error then why not using 2 of them? One backing up the other, the climber/user would never grab both of them?

[drytool]

I was top rope soloing with the Shunt wearing shorts and it caught under my pant leg, almost dropping me to the ground before I knocked it out.

[hummerchine]

Great video Yann!

It constantly kills me hearing people claim toothed devices are bad….because most aren’t! In fact they are the very most secure and safe!

[godohispano]

Yann Camus me encantan tus vídeos.Aprendo mucho sobre seguridad y te estoy agradecido 😊 Yo estoy usando el Kong Duck

[mountaineer]

Another good video, thanks. Can you review the DMM Buddy?

[christopherleachman]

I have a device that looks identical to the view ascent, Grand wall.
It's called Ushba. made in russia, titanium, nice but old thing I had for about 20 years. Scary thing is that if you grab the rope above the device in a fall, it can prevent it from locking. Let go and it'll lock, but not after you got some nice rope burn. Scary as F.
This is, like you said, user error. But it is so easy to do.
Any rate. Be aware. I never use mine without a backup!

[michalmakusa]

Good job having time and also "balls" to review devices for this purpose. I just couldn't resist to write, that argument about Shunt of yours was quite "cheap", comparing to the popularity and effectivity of that device at first, and to your arguments about other devices on the other hand; i.e. shunt is as safe as the abilities of its user, as well as other devices mentioned.

[AshleyMultiAdventures]

I have used my Shunt for top rope soloing infrequently over 20 years. I also have a Grigri and wondered whether the two could be used together for greater security?

[GoneFissionGoingNuclear]

So what’s your ideal setup? I have just been rocking a grigri and tying knots whenever I have a decent rest on the route. But I know I need a backup, or maybe a whole new system.

[ikarosdream]

I am a heavier new climber. I weigh 260 at the moment(down from 300 when I started climbing this summer). I am worried about generating loads that would strip the sheath on a the microtrax. What devices would you use for trs if you were significantly heavier?

[markifi]

the new version of the petzl tibloc has a spring

[joedeluca]

Just to let you know the rolling Rock is completely dangerous, it will slip if you fall not perfectly straight, you can do this test extremely easy clip of carabiner through your rolling block on a rope slide rolling rock up when you go to pull down twist your wrist right or left and yank down and you'll see that it slips.

[szabolcsgavaller]

One general question, and I haven't found any answer yet.
The situation which we have in my area nearly everywhere, you can not access the top anchor by walking, and it's as well too high for the clipstick. I don't want to risk solo lead.
What is the safe procedure to solo?

[wyeknotclimb]

At the start of the video there is a Petzl Rescucender, but later on it disappears and you don't mention it. I've used it as one of my devices, what are you thouhts?

[MattyDredge]

Hi Yann, what's your opinions on the Ropeman 4?