Building My Dream Yacht From Scratch Pt 7 - I Got Budget Engines, WILL THEY RUN?!?

Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten

[kamilo]

Hi Chris,

I hope you’re doing well. I had a chance to review your pontoon designs, and I wanted to share some feedback on a couple of points that might help enhance the stability and performance of the structure.

Firstly, regarding the structural issue with the second deck, I noticed that you’ve done a great job over-engineering the beams to handle the expected load. The materials and strength of the beams are certainly not in question. However, I’ve observed that the bottom part of the truss has two points of attachment, which indeed provide excellent rigidity. The concern arises with the single point of attachment you’ve used for the second deck. While it’s not exactly a ball joint, this single point can potentially behave like one, allowing rotational movement that might lead to unwanted sway and instability, especially under dynamic loads.

To mitigate this, I would recommend adding a second attachment point for the truss on the second deck. This additional point of attachment will significantly enhance stability by preventing the rotational movement that a single point can permit. This change should provide a more robust and stable support system for the second deck, reducing deflection and improving overall structural integrity.

Regarding the water pool issue, I noticed something with the design that might be contributing to a fluid dynamics problem. The incorporation of a hot tub at the front of the pontoon has created a boxy frame at the bow. However, the termination of this section with wide angles in the sheet metal is creating an area of significantly low pressure behind the hot tub. This low-pressure zone is problematic, especially given its location at the front of the boat.

This low-pressure area can lead to instability, particularly since the boat has large engines that will generate substantial force. The shape at the front of the boat needs careful consideration because the forces generated by water can be quite significant and are not to be underestimated. The current design could potentially destabilize the boat, making it difficult to control at higher speeds or in turbulent water conditions.

To address this, I suggest redesigning the front section to ensure smoother water flow and reduce the creation of low-pressure zones. A more streamlined approach to the front design can help manage water flow more effectively, improving stability and performance. Incorporating flow control devices such as fins or strakes might also help in managing the water dynamics better.

I’ve tried to illustrate these issues with a diagram. If it’s helpful, I can email it to you for a clearer understanding.

I hope this feedback is helpful. Let me know if you have any questions or need further clarification on any of these points. Looking forward to seeing the final product!

Best regards,
Camilo

[npickart]

As a former Mercury Marine employee, there is a very high probability that I made several components on these engines. Also, the oil is absolutely worth the money to use the specified Mercury Racing oil. Don't cheap out on your engines blood. Those oils were specifically designed bespoke for not only a Marine application...but for Mercury engines specifically.

[davidspringer]

The beep is the pre-test for no water flow alarm. That's the sound you hear when you have no water flowing through the engine. "That Boat Guy" is another very good source for knowledge.

[Skwisgar]

29:40 Nothing is more permanent then a temporary fix that works.

[jasonthorne]

Hey brother, you need to buy a set of ears that attach to your water hose and slide over the water intake vents on the lower unit. 90% of your cooling water goes in the vents on the lower unit and out the center of the propeller. The flush hose you are using is for running fresh water through the top half of your engine to clean out the salt water (with the engine off), and is not a sufficient cooling source. The water shooting out of the starboard side of the engine is an indicator letting you know your impeller is working properly. Thank you for all the awesome content.

[slusbe]

I'd highly recommend looking into the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards. They're used by most of the marine industry. They have very useful info, like what wire standards you should look for depending on application. Good standards that are honestly applicable outside of marine. Love seeing you guys branch out with the boat and camper.

[skyak]

Sending you fire extinguishers was marketing genius! That bet is sure to pay off!

[jamesallen]

The fact that you guys do what you do and don't have an oil filter removal tool is hilarious.

[jamesralston]

As a Mercury dealer, Mercury recommend synthetic blend. Volvo Penta takes Full synthetic. Also change the lower gear oil every year. Change those plugs.

[antonnym]

It was not a waste of 90 minutes to figure out how to install the lanyard switch, because you succeeded in the end. Perseverance! Well done!

[NJA]

Use tinned copper wire! It will save you grief if moisture ever gets in the wire. Otherwise, plain copper wire will turn to dust inside the insulation and you'll never know until it causes a malfunction or a fire...

[_Justnoble__]

Here’s an idea I had a friend use on a pretty long pontoon boat, get a trolling motor to fit under one of the couches, and control it from the helm for a “bow thruster.” One with spot lock would be good to avoid having to drop an anchor. You would also be able to tie it in to the garmin system you mentioned.

[theirishconservative]

Fun fact. I used to work at a boat shop they used cut down plastic 55 Gallon drums and just lowered the drives into them and had hoses plumed to the drums. Could run them for hours if needed .

[davessparetime]

Change lower unit oil on both. Check power trim. Swap the good fuel unit to the right engine. Well you bad gas mistake made you find the corroded wire that would be later on. Everything happens for a reason.

[panamafishingbass]

Service the lower unit oil that’s missing and it’s very important

[shawnsimmons]

You should absolutely be using "tinned" marine wire for ANYTHING on a boat.
I really enjoy the B is for BOAT content, and I hope you still plan on doing more content on the Riva yacht as well!

[crashgilliam]

You can just put the lower units into a 50 gallon drum full of water to run them

[seancbrophy]

Can’t believe you’re working in those crispy white fresh kicks. Brave.

[russellcameron]

You shouldn’t run the motor on the flush port. The lower leg water pump needs water so it doesn’t burn out.

[Hoodman]

Hi guys! Just wanted to let you know that a good thing to do to the boat motors, is to secure them from falling off if the mount breaks fore some reason. Mount a chain between each motor and a strong point on the boat. The torque is really not to be taking lightly 😉 Looking forward to see the finished boat 🙂👍