How to Replace a Rotted Fence Post / Handyman Business

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In this video I am showing you how to replace a rotted fence post in concrete. I show how to replace a rotted fence post the easy way. I have replaced a lot of fence posts in my handyman business and here i show you how I do it if the location of the post can not be moved.
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Here in the UK we would dig out a wider hole so that you have more concrete around the post underground plus wouldn't expose any above

James-lujf
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Many years ago I did the very same task at my girlfriends house in Sac. I pulled out all of the dry rotted post wood and pounded a replacement post in. It worked great.

richardgalli
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We dig out the hole like he did But then we trim 1/4 in off the width of the post on 2 sides for 12 in Long. Then when you put the post in the hole it has a lot of rattle room. Then you fill the hole 1/2 way with anchor cement (quick rock) Then push the post down in 12in and the exccess cement will ooz out the top then you have a tight fit when it dries.

chrisbatchelor
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The hole was not big enough and you need at least four inches of gravel underneath or it will rot fast again. Quick setting quikcrete is designed so you don't have to mix first, just dump in hole and add water on top. Treat the wood from bottom to 3 inches above grade with sealant.

trevorwesterdahl
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Most excellent work, and particularly like the tapered area around the post in order to prevent water settling, thus reducing the potential for eventual rotting.

mikeberry
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if you want to try to push for longer wood life you can put a sealant onto the wood where it goes into the concrete, and +/- 6" above. Also, when you are working with masonry products - consider wearing a dust mask because the silicate dust is not too good for your lungs.

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Yup I did years ago. Got rid of the old wood using cold chisel and put the new post into old square hole using a slurp of ready mix cement. Maybe not what a professional builder would do who's work may have a warranty, but for a quick cheap amateur garden repair, pretty effective.

ynyslochtyn
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I'm an Engineer and Property Manager. You are doing great!. Nice job, ignore the critical comments, they are Know-it-all critics. Keep up the good work my friend!

sumfunnow
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I like how the sped-up version makes the concrete mixing look frantic xD

RikoLime
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Best recipe for a long lasting fence post is NOT to have concrete above grade. Once the post shrinks or cracks it'll let water into the convenient "bowl" shape that the post cast into the concrete. It'll sit there and rot the post. If you need concrete for stability, dig the fence post hole down below frost line. Sit the post on a concrete cookie. Then pour concrete just about 4"-6" at the base of the post. Backfill the hole with dirt. This will give you excellent pull out strength, and it will solve the rotting issue. Also, concrete above grade lifts when the ground freezes, causing alignment issues with the fence. Check out the latest Pole barn building standards. I just paid to have a 3, 000 square foot pole barn installed, and the method I describe is the method they used. Lester Building.

raygyver
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Good work, very clever idea to reuse the same hole.

saulwest
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Looks good, except I did not see how you removed the rotted post. That was the critical part. Other than that it seems easy but removing the rotted post right out is the tough part.

kazimushtaq
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Nice job but I missed the most important thing I was looking for....How did you extract the old lower broken part of the fence post that was below the surface of the hole?

fleetwin
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Wish you were closer to Fresno. Cant find a handyman worth poop here!

sandraross
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I very effectively repaired a partially rotted post by vacuuming out the rotted material, attaching to the bottom of two 1” deep channels cut into the face of the post with 3” screws a pair steel tubes extending 9” down into the cavity, pouring ready mix concrete into the cavity, filling and finishing the face of the post with construction adhesive and bondo, and painting with fence stain.

kubeckjay
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Allen, re: replace side gate rotted brace post. It could have used more concrete just one inch higher, reaching level to sidewalk. Gate post needs all the support it can get. You had the room. I also would have pounded some rebar near into the ground to give extra support. Covering top of rebar with the added inches of concrete. Support, yes. And you could see 3 rotted side support wood. Why not add at least one new board sistered to one of the existing rotted boards. Support, yes.

elainegibson
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Hi,
Nice video. However I want to see and learn on how to do the concrete mixture and what texture is recommended.
Do you have a video on this subject?
If not, can you please make one in the near future?
Thank you

richardrosales
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I need to do some fencing this weekend at a rental property. Instead of all that work I'm going to use an EZ Mender stake to shore up the fence. It blew down during a 40 mph wind storm last week.

kentharris
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thank you for the video.
(when you disappeared, it did kinda looked like you were pissin' in the concrete)
that just made me laugh, I'm a dork sorry!
but great ideas and how to's, none-the-less

patrickholcomb
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Did you have to wait and come back another day to attach load to the post and rehang the gate? Quickrete says harden in 20-40 minutes but it takes a day or more to set.

TomCFang