Fix Rotted Door Frame (Brickmold)

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Check out our other ROT-RELATED VIDEOS linked below!
Repair Rotted Trim (Skirtboard):
Repair Rotted Door Jambs:
Fix Rotted Sink Cabinets:
Replace Deck Handrails:
Fix Rotted Basement Stairs:
Repair Leaning Fences:
Replace Deck Boards:

Brickmold trim casings on both doors and windows are very prone to rot. This video from The Honest Carpenter will show you how to remove and replace rotted brickmold on a door frame with simple carpentry tools!

Tools:
Oscillating Multi-tool
Utility Knife
16 oz Hammer
Brad Nailer/Compressor
Miter Saw
Six-in-One Painter's Tool
Cat's Paw (Nail Puller)
Combination Square
Caulking Gun

Materials:
PVC Brickmold
Siliconized Acrylic Latex Caulk
Galvanized Brad Nails (2")

For a detailed article about this rotted brickmold repair, check out The Honest Carpenter link below:

And, for an in-depth look at the oscillating multi-tool, including product reviews, go here!

How-To:
1) Mark a perpendicular line on the face of brickmold with a combination square and pencil.
2) Cut through marked line with oscillating multi-tool; be careful not to overcut into door jamb or siding.
3) Cut caulk lines around brickmold with utility knife.
3) Remove cut lower portion of brickmold with 5-in-1 and hammer.
4) Measure open area from lower surface up to underside of remaining brickmold.
5) Cut replacement piece of PVC brickmold (be sure to cut miter on bottom if necessary).
6) Prep area by caulking underside of existing brickmold.
7) Install new brickmold piece with galvanized brad nails.
8) Caulk perimeter of replacement.
9) Paint with exterior-grade paint.

If you enjoyed this rotted brickmold repair video, please hit LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE!

Be sure to check out The Honest Carpenter website for more tips, tricks, articles and tool links!
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I have seen a few of your rot repair videos and one comment I would like to make, as a fellow carpenter with over 35 years in the trade, is that once you have the rotten material removed, I recommend you treat the exposed areas with an appropriate chemical to kill any remaining termites or rot fungus that might not be apparent before you make the actual repair. It will give you and your client more peace of mind and make your repairs last longer.

sfsherrill
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I have been a diy guy from when my dad ( now passed ) had me hold the flashlight for him . Love doing all sorts of projects and helping others with theirs. The Lord commands us to help widows and orphans. No greater joy is there than to finish a job and stand back and see your work done well leaving things better than you found them ... thanks for all your helpful videos and direction as a former school science teacher I would pass on “ how to’s “ with the student body at school... they called it life lessons, I again thank you for yours....Ames

samlerames
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EXACTLY the problem around my back door at the garage - 32 years of sun and rain - brick mold and frame rotted so badly at the bottom, a mouse and a rat might have walked through together. THANKS SO MUCH for the great instruction!!! Got the oscillating multi-tool and PVC brick molding and 1x4, even though my problem was worse than what you showed, the solution was the same. I had 4 carpenters come and tell me to replace the door. The door is fine, it's the trim that needed replacing. None of them called me back, that's when I found your video. So glad I took your excellent advice!! $ 59 for the oscillating tool and $ 25 for the PVC trim, bless you!!!!

elkekirkpatrick
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You make good informative video's. 71 year young carpenter here. I always found dry rot to be like a ice berg. You only see about 10% of it. The chop saw, pneumatic nailers and multi tool were game changers.

timdouglass
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I’ve done this repair a lot. Almost the exact same way but I find it easier to cut the new PVC brick mold first, place it parallel to the rotted molding, and use the top of the replacement price to guide the oscillating saw blade. Remove the old rotted piece and the new piece slides right in. Perfect fit every time and it’s a nice time saver.

ericchristenrealtor
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A second plunge cut an inch or two below the top cut helps with the splintering problem. The top cut needs to be nice and square so it looks good when the repair is done. The lower cut doesn't need to be precise since it is only to help avoid splintering into the remaining trim when you pry out the bad part.

paulluskey
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Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.


Great videos

thomasharris
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I watched your video twice. (Watch twice, repair once). I would not have really known all your hints and techniques, and the repair on one side of the door was done in half an hour. I'm really happy to have moved up a notch on the handyman scale. Thanx!!

jimg
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Thanks for this. You just saved me $$ and turned me on too a really cool multi tool. It's awesome. It took me only about 30 min to do this repair. I had a handy man tell me it was easier and cheaper to just replace the whole door with would have been over $600. This cost me $190 including buying a really nice DeWalt Multi Tool. Thank you.

Osborneloto
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Priming and painting the wood used for the door jam, particularly on the bottom where the fibers are open would keep future rot out. Same goes for exterior doors; always paint the bottom before installing.

Dbb
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I just caught a few of your repair videos and it’s refreshing to see someone as yourself actually knowing what their talking about and doing it correctly.

I’ve been a restoration contractor for over 40 years now and I certainly would recommend you to anyone watching this video regardless of some ridicules comments! I appreciate good honest information and a job “well done “ as you’ve demonstrated here!!

Oldtimecarpenter
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I have this brick mould repair coming up when it gets warmer... I picked up the plunge saw just for this repair. Always need a reason to pickup a new tool.

dgadams
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You just saved my butt! I have a week before the building inspector gets here and have the exact same issue just not as bad. Thanks a ton!

LeeroyJebkins
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Great job on a very common repair!  two small tips,   follow your pencil line with a razor knife scribe which will leave a sharp cut edge to follow with the multi tool. Also, when removing the piece, in an effort to eliminate pry marks against the remaining wood trim members, run two drywall screws high and low and use your claw hammer to pry the piece straight off and away.  These two things are especially useful when working on highly visible trim repairs.  Thanks for all your great work.  Your obviously very squared away and doing great work!!

gsh
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Thanks for the info. I have a door jamb with dry rot, and this will help me to do my own repairs. My husband rolled his eyes when I said that I could save us a repair job on the rental. Oh ye of little faith. :) Wish me luck!

debiperkins
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Great video. One tip I think to mention as I just returned from finishing neighbors' attempt at replacing is to tape back the blub weather seal on the inside of the door towards the garage whenever cutting the side jamb out actually on any project. In nearly every project I've been called to come and "fix it", the weather seal is ripped or cut leaving an opening, especially on the entry points into their homes. Once the seal is out or needs to be replaced, it can be very difficult. Keep up the good work, Rob

woodburybob
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Nice job. I fill any gaps or spaces with foam filler before I set in the new brick mold and or trim. I found this helped reduce moisture build up inside. Also keeps ants from moving in as well.

Robsay
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I'm going to have to do this on my front garage trim as the full south sun has caused it to dry out & come apart, I will replace the whole piece of trim, Yes I will be doing this my self, after I pick up some tools.

ATOES
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A 45 degree angle cut with the top piece lapping over the new bottom piece also cut at a 45 degree angle prevents rot from forming because water will more easily run into a straight cut every time.

tcl
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Just replace all the brickmold with PVC. Home Depot sells pre cut kits for just over $30. You may have to cut to fit your exact door, but would be easier than making those plunge cuts and risk a poor cut. Then you don't have to worry about any other parts rotting out and it will all match each other. The PVC kit is also paintable to your desired color.

SteveW-K