The EASIEST way to Push/Pull Film!

Today we'll be talking about how the easiest way to push and pull your 35mm film. Pushing film is a very simple process but when first starting out it can be very confusing, so hopefully this video can clear up any questions! Pushing film works best with color or black and white film, I would generally refrain from pushing slide film as the exposure latitude is very slim! Hope you all enjoy this video!!

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Filming Equipment used:
Sony A7II
Manfrotto tripod

[TheMPhotography]

And also worth mention that if you push/pull you need to shoot the whole roll of film on that ISO setting.

[woohoo]

I think it will be easier to digest by understanding the exposure triangle. Push to higher ISO = Underexposed and Pulling to lower ISO = Overexposed. Higher ISO allows a faster shutter speed/ smaller aperture setting. Lower ISO allows slower shutter speed/larger aperture. Besides the desire of shooting in particular shutter speed, using expired film or want to create a unique film look ( grains and tone) can also be the reason for doing pulling or pushing in film photography.

[jameslane]

I disagree that pulling isn't needed. If you're shooting high contrast scenes and you don't want the high contrast then pull. If you need that tiny bit extra dynamic range, pull. If you want less grain, pull.

I always pull Pan F+ 50 by a stop to get beautiful tonality and no grain for example

[GeoffreyEduard]

Hey man, great video again. But you forgot to mention one very important thing about pushing. The film is obviously not as sensitive as a film that is two stops more sensitive. And this will express itself in the low brightness regions like the darks and shadows. Those were simply not exposed enough to pull detail out of it. Dark stays dark. So generally it creates a much more contrasty look. And this is why pushing is not "seeing" in the dark. We're actually pulling detail from the mids en highlights. A side effect of film that is not being exposed correctly is grain, which can also be a desired effect like the contrasty look.

[ColinBloodworth]

Testing out a roll pushed led me to only want to shoot that film pushed. I only want to shoot Tri-X at 800 or 1600 now. Film is such a great journey.

[Jerry]

I try not to push film unless I have to. I try to have the right speed film for the shoot. I have more slow speed film like 100 or 125 . Some 400 and a roll or two of 3200. When I worked as a photographer I usually carried two cameras. One loaded with 125 speed B&W, the other with 400 B&W or Ektachrome slide film usually 100 speed. I also had a third backup camera that was full manual only.loaded with the primary film I needed for the shoot. Usually 125 speed. Only a few shoots did I need the 3200 speed film as my primary. Sometimes I went slower at 25 speed. But I didn’t pull the film. I used Agfa 25 at the time. You use that film for the extra fine grain. It has great tonal range and makes extra large prints. Poster size or even mural size pictures. It’s not just the speed and versatility but the grain. The faster the film the more grain. Sometimes you want a grainy effect. I didn’t worry about developing for contrast. I can control that post production with the photo paper uses. Paper like film is rated. But for contrast. The lower the number the lower the contrast. You also have multi-contrast paper that uses filters on the enlarger to adjust the contrast. So unless you want grain use the slowest speed film you can for the photo shoot.

[dlarge]

Its also useful if you have an old film. I once had a very very old roll of Kodak TMAX 1600 that after a bit of consideration and advice from my dad I pulled down to 800. Only 1 stop overexposure but it turned out great.


Also if you are developing your own film yourself all you need to do is develop as the speed you pushed/pulled to according the the development times given for the developer.



Pulling film usually has the effect of decreasing the appearance of grain, pushing increases it.

[_parkphoto]

I think the one thing I was hung up on before watching this is that you gotta tell your developer that you pushed or pulled your film. That makes a LOT more sense now!

[maxtidmarsh]

Honestly love your content. I'm just getting into it and this is saving me so much stress. Thanks man appreciating this channel

[bengreenbadger]

I generally pull HP5 by a stop in the studio, it gives me easier (flat) negatives to work with in the darkroom. You can always add contrast back to a scan or print in post.

[davidlanford]

I just got a roll of TriX pan 400 back from lab that had expired in 02/2000. I metered it at 100 and had in developed at normal settings. It all came out very well.

[litespeedga]

Love your videos! Most people on youtube love to hear their own voices past the point of overkill. You on the other hand get to the point with no bs or filler...keep the videos coming!

[BLicMediaCo]

Man you went for the easiest way to describe this and you nailed it. Just discovered your channel today. Thanks a lot! Brand new to 35mm photography. Came from video background started on Hi-8. Picked up a Pentax K1000

[davidmcrae]

Great explanation. Can't wait to try pushing my 400d cinestill

[James]

I think I just found the Peter McKinnon of film photography 🙌🏼😅 a question: why do people push film to under expose? Why don’t you just shoot 400 stock on 400 iso/asa and then reduce the exposure compensation by 1 stop on your Minolta x700? Film newbie here and would appreciate the advice!

[skel]

So I have an Ilford fp4 plus (B&W ISO 125) and that ISO for me is so low I want to get more light into it, so I should shoot it like 50 Iso right? So my camera thinks the film is even less sensitive and my light meter guides me to overexpose, and when developed it'll have more light. In a nutshell if I want to simulate a more sensitive film for lower light conditions, I should pull to a lower ISO, and if I want to simulate a less sensitive film for conditions with a lot of light, push to a higher ISO right?
Or am I dumb and should I do the complete opposite?
Thank you for the video, but with some examples it'd be much easier to understand

[KimGonzalez-ktuh]

Can I just say, I'm extremely grateful for you. You've taught me so much about film and you are so good at simplifying things, THANK YOU.

[crwn_munkz]

Another reason to push is to get faster shutter speeds in low light situations. And not have to use your lens wide open

[NextScamdemic]

I've read about people taking advantage of Portra 800's wide exposure latitude by shooting at 400, then _pushing_ one stop in development. I'm gonna try this. I can attest to Portra800's wide latitude with some flash photos I was probably overexposed by a couple stops and some detail was lost in the highlights but overall they came out beautifully saturated

[JacobCarlson]

Just pushed a roll of Ektar by 2 stops. I'm excited to see the results