Pro cabinet makers don’t want you to know how to do this

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These videos are for entertainment purposes only. Bent's Woodworking is not responsible for any viewer trying to recreate something demonstrated in this video. Attempting any of the techniques shown are at the viewers own risk.

[paulgreene]

You're a good teacher - very clear and articulate, easy to understand and detail oriented.

[stucorbett]

Hey good vid for the new people. Ive owned my shop for almost 27 yrs now. Trick to a great door is using a shaper. WE use Freeborn tooling and build out 50-75 doors a day. Then run them through wide belt sanders and all the way down to hand sanding. Maybe someday ill post a vid of our operation but for now way to busy to care. Cheers from Montana

[elbebe]

You're the best. Thank you. I will make in the next project.

[lindamarsden]

I'm building my own home, the shell is almost done. I plan on making all my own cabinets and although i have made shaker style doors before this is the best tutorial I have ever seen and will follow Brent's method in the future, I just added the adjustable router bit to my Amazon cart. Thank you for your excellent videos.

[abad_gtr]

another impeccably timed video Jason! my wife wants to update our doors to the shaker style and i've had the Freud router bit set sitting around for over a year. this video explains how to utilize them perfectly. i'm feeling pretty confident to it but to do it! cheers

[bj]

Yes. I was making my doors about the same time you posted this video. Just seeing it now. I used a coping sled to reduce degrees of freedom and make coping the rails less stressful. I used the Freud bit set and made my doors from hard white maple. My “1/4-inch” plywood fit perfectly in the stock Freud set’s spacing. I broke the edges before assembly with a block plane and a sanding block. Good video. Very straightforward.

One fine point: routing with this bit set is probably only feasible with a stout router lift. I can adjust my JessEm to 0.002”.

[billj]

I have a friend that owns a cabinet shop. He uses 1/2" thick material for his panels in order to make a door that feels more solid. He cuts the same 1/4" dado in the rails and stiles then cuts a rabbit in the edges of the panel to fit, the extra panel thickness essentially makes the panels flush out with the back faces of the rails and stiles.

[danielakerman]

Great vid. Couple of suggestions:
1) if one starts by cutting the tenon in the scrap piece first, you can use the tenon itself to easily set up the mortise and get it absolutely perfect. No need for so much measuring and no need for two separate scrap pieces.
2) for better consistency and cleaner cuts on the tenon, one can buy boards at least double the needed width, cut the tenons first, and then rip to size. (The drawback of this is a little extra sanding or planing on the cut edge to remove saw marks). Another time saver is to pre-cut the mortises on full length boards before cutting to length.
3) when measuring the panel, there’s no need at all to measure the outside dimension of the door and then subtract the rail width. Simply dry fit the stiles and rails and measure the INSIDE length, then add the groove depth (x2).
4) unless the panel is MDF, it’s good to leave 2-3mm clearance on all sides to account for wood expansion, and the panel should never be glued.

[elhuache]

This is the type of videos that worth the time watching. Well explained very informative. Thanks.

[jimserhant]

Another great tutorial to make my morning coffee taste that much better. A proper setup always ensures you don’t mess up & determines how your final product ends up.

[SuperCC]

Man i just love you for using the metric system

[jamesmkoenig]

A good tip for aligning the height of the bit for cutting the rail tenons:
Cut a piece of the panel material about 1 inch wide and put it in the groove of a stile. Use that as a gauge for the height by inserting it into the gap on bit. You should be able to spin the router bit and have it drag on that material both top and bottom. That way you don't have to eyeball the grove vs the gap on the bit. It either fits or it doesn't.
By the way, love the videos, keep em coming!

[stevendemarcus]

Good stuff for the beginner. Making the jump to 3 phase shapers, feeders, and insert tooling was the game changer for me. Then again I build cabinets to make a living, not just because I enjoy it.

[mannysthings]

I've seen a few of your videos and I can confirm you earned my subscription great work.

[georgeandexler]

You do an excellent job of explaining cabinet builds. I have watched 2 other videos of yours. Thank you.

[markarita]

22:34 Little tip: sand those "inner corners" before assembly, there's less chance of catching panel plus you can easily access the entire length of the piece. Awesome video! I wasn't even aware of adjustable router bits. Thanks.

[winstonramroop]

A most perfect explanation and demonstrationn about making shaker doors using tools materials & machinery. No need to ask questions..GREAT TEACHER !

[Overlegen_Dre]

I am about to make some doors for the closet. So this video is really helpful :)

[randalblair]

fantastic tutorial. Your videos have helped me to be much better at woodworking!

[csimet]

I just finished making 40+ doors for my kitchen remodel using the Freud adjustable router bit set with an inside bevel (99-762). I used poplar for the rail/stiles, 1/2" plywood for the panels and will paint them. They came out perfectly and could not be more pleased. A coping sled is critical for making the rails IMHO, especially with most router table fences and I always cut them first... less tear-out. I prefer 1/2" plywood for the panels and trim the edge on the table saw to fit the grove. 1/2" provides way more "beef" for the door over 1/4".

The only pain point was almost each and every cabinet had different dimensions. I came up with a spreadsheet where you enter the raw opening, the standard overhangs (mostly hinge type dependent), any optional/additional overhang desired (to match up the door gaps better), the router bit's tongue depth and the stock size. It provided accurate total stock lengths needed and rail, stile & panel cut lists that made it super easy, as well as a finished door size to check against the cabinet before you make them.