Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]

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There's a huge variety of anchor bolts available for bolting concrete, masonry and rock. So which type to use for bolting rock climbs? Here discuss the features, installation, and removal (kinda) of the most common expansion bolts used in rock climbing: wedge bolts and sleeve bolts. Sleeve bolts styles discussed are standard (hex nut), and flush head (hex bolt).

*Expansion bolts are a category of mechanical anchor.
*These are usually called wedge anchor, sleeve anchor etc, because that's the category of fastener used for anchoring things into concrete, etc. I use the term 'bolt' because 'anchor' in climbing usually refers to the double bolt belay at the top of a climb.
*Wedge bolts are aka wedge anchors, through bolts, true bolts.
*Sleeve bolts are aka dynabolts, tygabolts, and many other names.

I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks from tool companies. I’m just a guy who wants to know how these tools perform, and figure you do too. You can chip in here, it'll be hugely appreciated:

Cheers!

0:00 - intro
0:24 - Wedge bolt overview
3:25 - Standard sleeve bolt overview
5:02 - Flush head sleeve bolt overview
6:38 - Wedge bolt installation
10:36 - Standard sleeve bolt installation
12:04 - Flush head sleeve bolt installation
13:01 - Sleeve bolt removal
14:33 - Extra points
15:52 - Outro
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Awesome video! The only thing I'd say is that it's good to drill the hole extra deep. This can greatly aid in removing the bolt, especially if you have to spin & pull it. Cheers!

mitchell
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Good work on this video. As Usual. Quite comprehensive.

I also wonder why the 5 piece bolts have so many bits. The bolt you have seems like a much smarter design.

bobbyhutton
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Great video content!! @MountainMullet I noticed you switched drills from two years ago. Are you finding the Bosch is better/faster than the dewalt? Do you have preferable drill bits?

bomogo
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I WANT TO MAKE A CLIMBING WALL - MY HOUSE'S TALL SIDE IS A 5 METER WALL/ CINDER BLOCK - I WAS GIVEN 2 WEDGE BOLT STAINLESS 12 MM WITH ANCHOR HANGER -- CAN I DO THIS ?

juankast
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Noticed the spanner break at the end have you ever tried the Bacho ratchet spanners they're great and 4 sizes in 1

itsnot