Gripped Climbing Magazine exposed some Newbs

The 5mm cordelette we tested in this video broke at 3.4kn and 3.0kn. Super sketchy!

[justindunlap]

I want to thank you guys, 5 years ago I broke my back and stopped climbing. Since I've found your channel it has inspired me to get back into it, and with the help from your videos and website I have started to develop a crag close to my house. You guys rock keep up the good work.

[Ataraxia_Atom]

Dude this is scary these guys could have really hurt themselves. Thank you for your channel Ryan. I've learned so much here.

[markkNL]

Those 'quickdraws' were probably made after a conversation along the line of: "Dude, I can totally hang on this, why should we spend so much money on those things, just make some yourself", while being completely oblivious about a fall generating an order of magnitude higher forces than just hanging on something.

[mattadler]

I have run into newbie climbers a couple times building bad anchors and what I do (and I think the responsible thing to do) is to teach them without being condescending. I usually initiate with something like "that's an interesting anchor setup, can you tell me about it?"

[flasher]

Bicycle helmets are fine. They pass a test simulating side-impact on a curb, where as mountaineering helmets don't need to pass any impact tests at all before going to market. Most "climbing" helmets are a flimsy joke with a tiny amount of crown anti-penetration protection and nothing else (it's a watered down version of the test used on construction helments and no one in industry seems to want to pass any more independent tests than that). I think most skateboard helments are better for climbing than most climbing helmets. Prove me wrong. Smash some helmets!

[michaelwood]

As a newb I came here to learn to trust the gear I was climbing with in my local gym, now I trust the gear I’m loving slowly learning how little I know

[jarrodsquito]

Success story from a kinda noob. I have only been climbing since December and a few weeks ago was at a local outdoor crag. I saw someone rappelling of a 35ish foot wall with their cord looped with a double fisherman not then just wrapped around a tree. They were already over the edge so when I got down I asked who had done their anchor.

I showed them how to set up a wrap 3 pull 2 anchor and explained how their setup was not redundant at all and that there was load being placed on the knot. From watching your channel I was able to tell them how much the knot reduces the load capability of the cord.

It was a pleasant experience and they were open to the advice.

[katatat]

Idk, that sounds way too perfect to not be a prank done by experienced climbers

[rachelhasbruises]

In my experience with the similar but underground version of this, the easiest way to handle Dunning-Krueger people is kindness and referring them to good resources, including groups that they can join where they have a good likelihood of finding a mentor. 😬

Also some firm but calm "hey I'm being extremely serious right now: you are in a deadly situation and need to turn back..."

[maibemiles]

Everyone has that one friend who “knows” everything and is always overconfident in their abilities. I wouldn’t be surprised if one those two guys is like that... lol the one thing I will say, is that they at least wore helmets, which does indicate that they were thinking about safety...

[CJ-nhzi]

Bolting trad routes with the wrong bolts? Sounds like a bunch of trolls not gumbys.

[Alvinyokatori]

Tbh I respect the spirit of getting out there, I remember when the local guys found my rigs and brought me in to the shop to give me lessons 😭😭 my rigs were all rope saws

[michaelgb]

A helmet test would be interesting. By visual comparison, some bike helmets appear more robust than most climbing helmets. I have opted for a bike helmet on many occasions. I have looked at a number of climbing helmet styles and some do appear very skimpy on padding or impact absorbing material. Again without data to compare the two, it's hard to argue one or the other.

[yuli]

That is just... Impressive. The daring of bolting around like they own the rock without even considering what other climbers have to say about it, and at the same time getting so wrong the safety. Also, it wouldn't have been so much more expensive for them to get 7 mm cordelette and link with a double fisherman's (about 13 kN?), and it would at least had matched the strength of the quickdraws, right?

[deadskimountaineer]

This is local to me, fancy seeing you here! It’s pronounced yam-nuh-skah, you’re not too far off.

[jacktrussler]

When you mentioned why you like doing to channel I want you to know you've succeeded - while I've never climbed outdoors or even done a lead climb indoors. You've manage to teach me so much about forces what gear is acceptable etc. Honestly thank you :)

[saxtonhine]

"idk where the disconnect was between the stoke and the knowledge" been there lmaoooo

[theoriginaldmac]

This read out of something like the onion was kinda hard to believe there was so much disconnect.

[drenjdh]

I’m a noob, but I took a Rescue Technician course. I look for the highest kn on products. I may not know much, but I know enough to but quick draws with dyneema of two lengths. I also know, taking advice from others, looking it up or asking questions is absolutely valuable. There is NO ROOM for the “I know” or the “I’m better than you” attitude. The minute you stop learning, you became a hazard!

[rockclimbinghacks]

I'd try to help them out as long as it didn't compromise my safety (including getting in their fall line). Some people really think they know what they're doing and you can't tell them anything, so I'd keep my expectations low, but then again I feel obligated to save someone's life if possible. One time I stopped a guy from rappelling with a grigri on a hardware store rope and it wasn't awkward or anything, he was very gracious. I set up his toprope for him and we climbed a bit.