Must Have Tools For 3D Printing

In this video, I'm sharing the 11 must-have tools for 3D printing that have completely changed my game! From getting that first layer to stick like magic to keeping your prints super clean—I've got you covered. Some of these tools are total lifesavers, and if you're not using them yet, trust me, you’re missing out! Did I forget your favorite tool? Let me know in the comments! And if you’re looking to level up your slicer game too, check out the video I linked at the end for some quick wins. Happy printing! 😎

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My 3D Printing And Camera Setup:

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Chapter Markers:

00:00 - Intro
00:27 - Deburring Tool
01:22 - Liquid Build Plate Glue
02:41 - Print Bed Scraper
03:19 - Pliers & Cutters
04:20 - Scalpel Knife
05:03 - Calipers
05:31 - Microfiber Cloth & Isopropyl Alcohol
05:59 - (Ratcheting) Screwdriver & good Allen Keys
06:47 - Vacuum Bags & Pump
07:32 - Wire Brush
08:07 - Printer-Specific Tools
08:41 - Outro

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Tags:
#3dprinting

[arnebornheim]

Sorry for the reupload I had to fix the sound!

[MattManuel]

Good list of tools. Only two things to add, and these are optional: A mini vacuum to get all those little filament poops out of your printer and a rotary tool (Dremel-style) for sanding and smoothing. Those little drum sanding attachments can be great as an alternative to a deburring tool, just use them at low speed so as not to melt your printed part.

[bonytologna]

I like to recommend a flatbed scanner, if you scan a part, it’s comes though at the exact life size, helps when designing parts that need to fit into an existing part. Scan the part, toss it into vector drawing software, then extrude out your SVG in CAD to get a rapid start to designing for printing

[mackobun]

A set of long surgical tongs are super helpful for cleaning up little buggers and arrant blobs of filament while the print is in progress.

[pulseplayzz]

Great to see, that you listen to feedback. The sound is way better now.

[jeffwalker]

I have a set of dentist tools - they are really hand for clearing out support material in small gaps such as recessed holes or hard to reach parts of a build. You can also use the dentist mirror to inspect awkward areas of the printer. If you regularly remove the hot end, a telescopic magnetic probe is handy for when screws fall at the rear of the printer etc.

[ChrisCollins-cw]

I’m less than 50 prints in on my first printer, I found this video extremely useful. Thank you Arne!

[Roobotics]

Bought a edge deburrer, haven't found a single use for it except for metal. XY offset on brim exists to make them peel off very easily, if the bottom layer is squished that's elephant's foot/first layer compensation. With printers today it's kinda a thing of the past. 1:41 ABS needs a glue stick on textured PEI since when??? that list seems extra cautious, never used gluesticks one PETG with a smooth surface either, never have had print failures on well designed parts, clean your bed with 90%(minimum) ISO regularly, and keep the filament at it's glass transition point so it doesn't shrink until the print is done.. If the geometry is so bad models fail, that's a design issue that CAN be brute forced with glue, but now everyone that ever makes it, also gets to suffer trying to make it work.

For a scraper, once you get a feel for it, metal is the way, it will last forever.. I have a super generic Ender3 freebie scrapper that has a defect, one corner is significantly sharper than the rest of it, works amazing to sneak under a stuck part then use the normal rest of the blade without any scratching issues. If I ever lose it I'll make another just like it. As far as vacuum bags go.. I've never dried any of my filaments until just recently, and realized after that it might have been a different error, humidity ~40-60%, I was printing TPU and it was just garbage, I have no idea why Bambu sets 240c for their generic TPU profile, yet 230 for their own 95A TPU.. I dropped it to 230 and it printed like a dream. They are baking some 'generic' filament profiles to death just to make theirs seem better I think..

[locorocohui]

been cleaning my beds with ethanol forever, always worked great, HOWEVER since cleaning it with dish soap and a non-abrasive sponge, my bed adhesion significantly increased. so a scrub with some soap every now and then can drastically affect your adhesion! every day use for me still stays ethanol/isopropyl. happy printing, y'all

[ScytheNoire]

Great list, all items I have and use constantly.
I would add tweezers, one set with sharp points, the other with flat ends. Both can come in handy.

[keithwohlgemuth]

Thank you so much. We are just getting ready to buy our first 3D printer and are researching what we need to get. This is a logical list to get us going. It all makes sense for sure. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[davidcooper]

Recommend this video for all newbies. One other thing I like are ball end Allen wrenches for any work around the hot end. Another is a mini vacuum for cleaning the innards of the printer.

[xandersnyder]

One last thing, DO NOT use isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed in an enclosed printer, it will evaporate and dry out your belts and cause the to crack and fail.

Hot water, dish soap, and a scrub sponge are the best.

Save the Isopropyl for resin printing.

[jamiemacdonald]

My opinion on buying more expensive calipers for 3D printing... don't bother. You used the phrase "perfectly precise", and that is not what calipers are for. Calipers are a good reference, and that's it. Even some of the less expensive (not the absolute cheapest though) calipers out there will give you an accuracy of +/- 0.001" / 0.03mm. With current consumer 3D printing technology you are not going to be able to utilize a resolution or accuracy greater than that anyway. If you're concerned with the accuracy and repeatability of your current calipers then buy an inexpensive gage block or a gage pin and periodically check your current calipers with them as a standard. Again, just my opinion. I know myself that I sometimes just like to buy the best tools I can whether I actually need them or not.

[BelfastBiker]

Solid, solid list!!!! I have A1s with the weak camera, so I added a cheap tripod twixt myprinters, and perched a cheap blink pan and tilt camera on top. Can see my printing from anywhere, in much better quality from a much better vantage point. When I was cat sitting over a weekend, I put one of my blink wireless cameras behind, and was able to manually pop off the finished prints after 20 minutes, into a cardboard box, using the print head as a battering ram. Allowed me to print a lot of things over that weekend..

[LarryMatter]

Really useful video! I've been printing for a few years and never heard of a deburring tool.

[SkateSoup]

I finally got a deburring tool and it's been a significant quality of life improvement cleaning up prints. I need to see if left handed tips are available.

Fwiw, that ams disconnector tool works great on other printers with bowden tools. I've used it in my Magneto X and X Smart 3 and it's improved the struggle sometimes popping that slippery tubing off when it's stuck in there.

[NWGR]

Great video, thanks for posting. I have all the tools you showcased aside from a decent set of 6" diagonal cutters.
Knipex to the rescue! lol

[SeanBoggs]

An alternative to needle nose pliers, or additional fine tip grabbing tool, is a pair of medical hemostats. They are small enough for tight spaces, locking in most cases, and easier to use in some cases.

[bshagopian]

For the plastic scraper, you can extend the life of the blade by running it across sandpaper on a flat surface (desk, tool box, etc). It’s just like honing a hand planer blade. Use at least 400 grit or higher and keep a stiff angle, don’t roll your wrist and only do it on the beveled side.