12 more 3D printed tools you need for your workshop

Previously I covered a range of 3D printable workshop tools. Making that video was enjoyable and viewers seemed to like it too. In this sequel, I select another twelve quality, 3D printed tools to share with you. Some of these I’ve already used for projects, and others I look forward to using in the future.

Thanks to all of the amazing designers who create and release these tools for free!

0:00 Introduction

0:54 Measuring and Marking

5:04 Clamping and holding

10:59 Power tool accessories
Drill guide with dust collector by Bearlord:

15:14 Conclusion

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[Yoggoth]

One note here is that you should put a featherboard only before your saw blade, so it won't pinch your cut.

[GravitationBeatles]

I love how meta the 3D printing universe is

[BenWolkWeiss]

The drill dust guide is good and durable enough to keep in your drill case or bag, but a cheap option is to use an envelope taped to the wall with painters tape or a folded piece of paper. Works great!

[DavidBaumgarner]

12:52 No. No no. Never rip a thin piece between the fence and the blade. That thin piece is what gets kicked back and the featherboard isn't touching it so it can do nothing to stop it. Put the large part against the fence with the thin offcut on the outside. You may need to make a thin rip first to true up that edge to parallel to the edge against the fence. If you need to repeat thin strips, Print a thin rip jig. There look to be some good ones. (I haven't gotten to them yet but are on my shortlist) 👍

[zuberio]

I'm so glad you found my mantis clamp worth including in your list :D Your right that the stand part of the clamp is a real tough problem to solve.

[dleland]

Michael, I echo your thanks to all of those designers who work so hard on creating a model and then releasing it to the public for free. THANK YOU to all those designers, I/we really appreciate your efforts.

[smorris]

Owning a 3d printer is like owning a lathe. You use it to make more tools for it!

[brooksmiller]

3:34 - Turn the calipers around - there is a stick that pops out the back when you use the calipers that lets you measure things like that (as well as the depth of tiny holes, for instance.)
You probably already knew that though, and this was just a use-case example for your print 😇

[locke]

that last part should have been the first in the video. i'm always amazed and gratefull at some of these tools released for free. Amazing comunity

[gazgadgets]

Thanks for sharing some of these great ideas. Just a tip on the use of the feather board. Never place it opposite the blade. The feather board should be positioned just in front of the blade so you are not pushing the workpeice into the side of the blade. If you do it will jamb and kickback at you. Dangerous.

[michaelcripwell]

The more videos I watch on 3D printing the more I am blown away by what can be done, truly the imagination is the most limiting factor. I must invest in one soon. Thanks for the videos.

[contrarian]

Seems like the cable soldering jig still has the core issue: the copper strands are hard to keep 100% parallel, they angle away a bit. My fave tool for this is a metal oval, made of two "clampable" horizontal layers. The wires go in-between the layers. The hole in the center is small and fixes the strands as you want them.

[EvanGillespie]

Love the video. I'll print a few of those.

For future reference, you can use the pokey part than comes out from the end of your calipers to measure depth, like you needed in your lock-blocker project.

[MrBlakBunny]

reminded of the cable clamps i made for my housemate to run network cable to the bedrooms of his house (didn't want to drill holes in walls) so i made them clamp to doorways and walls to keep the cables out the way

[CrudelyMade]

just a quick note.. on the table saw, you should have the main body of the board next to the fence, cutting off the small part on the other side of the blade. this is because the thin piece can bow (and often does in natural wood) causing it to press against the blade and then shoot out back at the operator. note for the future. ;-)

[evanbarnes]

Hey man! Generally love the video, but as a shop teacher of 7 years with no injuries on my record, I feel compelled to point out that you're not using the feather board correctly or cutting thin strips safely. I'm really just concerned for your own safety there, and for the safety of beginners who might follow your instructions. For the feather board, make sure it is in front of the blade. You have it partially to the side of the blade. That will apply pressure through the off cut to the side of the blade, potentially causing binding and kickback. The main problem for the thin strip that you cut is that you left it entirely unsupported and uncontrolled between the moving blade and the fence. You can even see it at the end of the cut, when the thin strip lifts up a little bit and is free to get launched by the spinning blade. This is exactly how kickback occurs. If you need to cut a thin strip like this, the safest way to do it is to not cut the thin strip between the fence and the blade but to make it on the offcut side. It takes more work because you have to move your fence for every cut, but you can use jigs to make sure you're positioning your wood at the right distance each time. If you absolutely do have to or, frankly, just want to cut the thin strip between the blade and the fence, you should absolutely use a sacrificial push stick. That's a push stick or push block that you will have right next to the fence and that you will just cut into. That way your workpiece is constantly supported during its time between the blade and the fence. I recommend making it out of wood rather than plastic so it doesn't shatter on contact with the blade. And then never leave the cut piece floating between the moving blade and the fence like you did in this video. That's one of the most common times for kickback to occur. I highly recommend the sacrificial push block anyway. You tend to get a little more control and you should get better cuts too because you don't have your piece wandering around.

[luke_fabis]

That radius gauge is potentially very deceptive. Most corners in contemporary industrial design are not radiused (G1 continuity) but rather have at least G2 continuity, if not G3 or G4. The actual change in curvature begins much further back than you'd guess at a glance, and the corner is not actually circular. The reason is so that reflections gracefully flow around the corner instead of abruptly forming a sharp line. But it does mean that if you assume it's a radius, you're going to have gaps in anything you model.

[deblaiser]

Wow I am so honored to be featured in this video (the wood push stick)
I literally learned everything I know about Marlin and firmware modifications from you !

[dev-debug]

I have that wire soldering jig, my old helping hands have not seen the light of day since I printed it. I like that vise built like a scroll chuck, think I'll do one of them next.

[larrybowers]

So timely. I have a project I'm getting ready to build and the radius gauges are perfect. Thanks