I tested the finger strength of random climbers

In this video I find random climbers in the gym and test their finger strength, but the goal is for me to guess how much they can lift based on what they can climb in the gym!

Thanks to our legends,
Aaron,
Felipe,
Wille
& Haily!

Check out @Aaronvargasprod and subscribe to him for some great content!

My gear:
Favorite shoes

Instagram:

FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson
Edited by Peter Mazur:

[EmilAbrahamsson]

I'm noticing some clarification is needed for the grip type we choose here:
I chose the 90 degree half crimp position for testing, since I find that the by far safest way to test people. Letting people hang from their flesh in a dragging position would (most likely but more research is needed) have a higher risk of injuring tendons in beginners. I've seen that first hand, and it's not something I want to put people at risk for to make a video. It's very hard to assess when a load is too heavy in a dragging position, especially for me who was supervising the experiment.
I also find that when people are asked to "max out" a lift, they'll use any means necessary to do so, such as sticking the skin of the pinky into one end of the edge, which effectively won't provide more strength but will make hanging or lifting easier -> increases risk of injury.
I will say though, this is anecdotal and based on talking with experts, so there's definitely room for discussion with what grip types are best for both training and testing, but this is what I expect to be the most safe.

That being said, if you're using a hangboard or portable edge for finger training, it can be good to train all positions that you might encounter on the wall. Three finger drag, open four, half crimp, anything goes really, as long as you know what you're doing and can do it safely.

Also:

[chabum]

24:07 Emil "paint me like one of your french girls" Abrahamsson

[haileywright]

“Just gonna warm up a bit” *flashes v10*

[mAny_oThERSs]

1:45
"Hey, you needed a brush right? I can give you this one for free."
The brush: "you won't ever finish that v6 project"

[NatureClimbing]

What a great concept! We're always happy to support your ideas and help climbers get stronger. 😊 It was so nice to see you making sure no one gets injured! And Haley? She's a natural. 😉 Let her know to send us a message - she absolutely deserves a Stone Hanger of her own! What an absolute legend!

[melancholiaenshrinesalltriumph]

"oh my god maybe i am a legend" 💅

[emterroso]

Cool to see Emil warming up on my project at 0:19. Got some insight on the beta, for my next session. And the 6C at 15:10 was my first 6C ever, which is no longer there.

[meganwong]

Great video, Emil! I loved being able to see so many different climbers from different walks of life, and getting a small glimpse into their journey as a climber. It really inspired me to reflect about my own climbing, strengths, weaknesses, etc. as well. Feeling stoked to hit the gym and train as well, hehe. Thanks as always for awesome vids!

[arekszczurek]

6:35 in case you ever wondered why all bands at your gym are getting broken after 2 weeks XD

[TwistingFate]

Emil doing his own version of guess the elo lol

[Wijkert]

I remember Felipe being on Eric's channel. Cool to have him back in a video.

[shadowcat]

Damn Haley’s finger strength was INSANE!!

[SuedeNWings]

super fun concept video and glad to see the everyone having fun

[yamchoonhian]

I've always been baffled by these tests. I am 50yo, arthritic in both mid fingers, & have in recent years never lifted more than 25kg on the Tindeq large edge & 22.5kg on the 10mm. I used to boulder V11/12 & Sport Climb up to 8b years ago but now I can only manage V8/9 & 8a max. My finger strength correlates with a V3/5, 7a climber but I somehow find ways to climb without engaging much of my mid fingers, especially on rock. I suspect a lot of it comes from trying to maximise friction on holds & adapting with strange methods (such as using the pinkie side of the palm to wrap around holds). I also pulsate a bit to purchase more friction & help ease my fingers into less painful positions on holds. I only wished at my current weight of 56kg, I could lift as much as the lady in the video! 😮

[ThomasBritz]

Haley's forearms and hands looked strong af, even before she proved that they were

[BlackdownBlocs]

Very wholesome for a wet Sunday, thanks Emil!

[FinnMoveYT]

I can relate a lot to the first guy, I started climbing July 2024 and I tested my max on a 10mm edge 2 months in or so and I lifted 50kg and held for 10seconds.

I also did 40kg pinch lift for 10seconds…

Current bodyweight is 82.5Kg

The strong climbers in my gym couldn’t really believe that I could lift this amount of weight hahaha

Now I have been training this a lot and I can do 55kg for 5sets 10 reps by now :)

[XLessThanZ]

Thanks for the description of good and bad finger posture during testing. This is the first time I've heard that, but so good to know. GREAT VIDEO 👍🏽🤙🏽

[WillChallenges]

Super cool that you included the percentage of body weight on the graphic. I loved being able to see that along with the weight

[r.j.a]

legend videos, thank you for uploading. 🔥🔥