We Asked 6 STRONG Climbers How To Train Finger Strength

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We can all agree finger strength is the No.1 attribute for climbing performance...😅

It's no wonder everybody talks about finger strength training and the endless training sessions and tools that exist, but this can also make it a bit overwhelming 😥 when it comes to knowing what is best?!

We thought it would be great to sit down with some of the best climbers 🧗 in the UK (and who have some of the strongest fingers! 💪) to ask them a few questions. We unravel their years of experience and wisdom 👴 to uncover some important lessons, which we can all learn from.

What was really nice about this set of mini-interviews is that some common themes emerged and actually made finger strength training start to sound quite simple 🙂. So if you want to skip ahead 10 years of finger strength training you need to watch this video 👀

The questions I asked were:
1️⃣ What is your overall approach/theme to finger strength training?
2️⃣ What is your favourite exercise for finger strength?
3️⃣ What is one thing you've learned that you can pass on to us?
4️⃣ What is one mistake you've made that we should avoid?

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[lhkdtbg]

Having two of literally the best outdoor boulderers in the entire world be this accessible is unheard of in any other sport. I love climbing and the community it creates

[InspiredPhotons]

Definitely enjoyed the interview format! I'd be interested to see one focused on heel hooks in all their nuances...technique, training, etc...or a broader focal point of maximizing weight onto the feet in general - seems like a nuanced topic with the potential for great insights from experience!

[MalavitaOfBB]

Loved it! Please do more videos like this ... The one about endurance sounds like a great one.

[ChossBoss]

Absolutely do more of these. Love to see y'all using your brand to give strong climbers a platform to share their insights! Thank you, it is a great service to the climbing community.

[LuisRodriguez-bdej]

This was an awesome offering. It helps that the climbers you chose could clearly articulate their responses in an in depth way without getting too far in the weeds. Good stuff. Definitely enjoyed it.

[DwarfAtHeart]

Would love to see more of these. I think what really helps are the good relevant questions but also the wide variety of climbers you've asked. Could have one episode themed on projecting, how people approach problems/routes they want to do, and how they troubleshoot moves etc

[ashhodson]

Hangboard, attached to resistance band and do finger curls. It essentially isolates the fingers and wrists for when the shoulders, core and/or other muscle groups are too tired to Hangboard.

[elfriederich]

Thanks, really enjoyed listening. Perfect timing. One other interesting question would be what they do to prevent finger injuries.

[sknot]

I wish I was near you so I could get your coaching! Great video!

[BrinK-s]

As a French, consuming English content. I can't tell how beautiful and amazing it is to find videos with an English accent !

[vince_pajor]

Great video! Keep it up, love you Guys❤

[alpine_chr]

yes, please do explore this type of video more. It really has me engaged, taking notes on the side and stuff. absolutely love it.

[sampattison]

10:05 Ah yes Will, I am sure we all have this problem often!

[joshuazylstra]

I would love to see some videos for training or exercise for heavier climbers! As someone that's 195lbs but been Climbing about 9years now and alway feel wight has held me back over finger strength. I'm able to pull 70-85% (174lbs) body weight on one hand lifts but still struggle on steep Climbing and board climbing. any recommendations??

[DrPetesKetoKlub]

Very cool. I'm in your training program now. It was interesting to hear these different views!

[schneesi]

Great and exciting video. Format is great. Short but with lots of important information and knowledge. Thank you!

[rocketguy]

About a month in as a beginner rock wall climbing and I've just had my first minor ring finger tweak. Will definitely try some of these training techniques once I'm back to 100 percent.

[chriss]

this was one of your best videos. thank you. i would appreciate more like this <3

[Pietervanloon]

Loving the abilities. I rewound the video to make sure I got all the pro tips. Main takeaways: eat more parmesan and get a good lawyer for the missing dividend of finger training.

[thenuggetclimbing]

Really enjoyed this format! Good stuff!