How to Install Ultra-Slim Recessed LED Lights || No Hole Saw, No Worries || Replacing Our Old Lights

I’m replacing the old, flush-mounted lights in my entryway with new, ultra-slim, recessed LED lights, and I’ll walk you thru it. I’ll also show you how I prepped my drywall ceiling without a hole saw so you can save some money if you’re only doing a couple!

Timestamps:
00:08 Flush-mounted lights
01:19 Recessed lights
04:28 Removing old light
07:58 Ceiling prep
09:11 You don't need a hole saw
09:48 Install cables of new light
13:44 LED light settings
14:38 Attach LED light
15:25 Final thoughts
16:58 Pet guest

*Not sponsored*

Website coming soon.

CAMERA GEAR USED:

DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate/referral links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive small compensation. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting The DIY Grunt!

Be sure to subscribe, like this video, and leave us a comment!

Keep an eye out for our next video 😊

#howtoinstalllights #recessedlights #commercialelectric

[thediygrunt]

I have received several comments on leaving the original electrical box. I left the metal boxes in for 2 reasons. First, there are additional wires in all of those boxes, and I do not know what they are powering. Second, and most importantly, the wires are all running through fixed metal conduit. By removing the boxes, there would be nothing to keep the metal conduit from moving around freely and in some spots, they had enough movement to drop through the ceiling. I cannot remove the metal conduit without destroying the entire ceiling, so I chose to leave the conduit and boxes in place. For those who are just watching this video and have not seen my other videos, this project is being done in my privately owned warehouse that is not used for business purposes. Lastly, I will acknowledge I made some mistakes in this video, but that is the nature of DIY projects. I’m NOT A PROFESSIONAL. I would highly recommend watching other videos on how to do this in order to learn further.

[amramer]

Just a heads up, any wiring entering the black junction box for the LEDs needs to have a bushing around it to protect it where you removed the knockout. The edges of that knockout hole are really sharp and very easily score the wires causing a short. There are plastic bushings that you can install retroactively without having to disconnect everything. Good video though.

[rbilardo]

Semper Fi my brother. Good job. FYI, you need to put a connector in the hole before you place the wires in the box, this prevents insulation on wire from being scraped and short out. No problem, we all are just learning. Thanks for the video.

[anxiousappliance]

Thanks for the detailed video. A couple of things I'd note - someone already mentioned. bushing for the bare metal hole to prevent possible cutting of insulation by the punch out. One other thing I've run into with old house wiring: People run neutral white from the switch to the lights because it is easy if you have a bunch of 12 or 14/2. They're supposed to wrap the ends with black tape to show it is power - they don't seem to. 

I would test the wires in the cieling box, by running and ohm meter between the black and whites with the wall switch on. (CIRCUIT OFF AT THEBreaker BOX!). If you get a closed circuit (O-ish ohms) between a black and white - that white is the powered switch hot. You can double test by switching the wall switch on and off and watch the resistance change. Wrap the hot white in black electrical tape, and thank the previous electrician for being a putz.

[MrGoflockyourself]

I appreciate you showing your mistakes and things you learned. Not enough people do this anymore. Thanks for the video.

[jaghifi]

I would have ran a romex jumper from the j box to the light j box and then put a blank cover over ceiling box.

[ppvshenoy]

Thanks for the video. I’ll be replacing the exact light fixtures you had with recessed LED lights this weekend.

[jim]

Thank you for the video. I think you did an excellent job. I just recently had my house built and installed all the wafer lights my self. We all make mistakes and that is how we learn. Keep up the good work.

[butchc]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
A lot of people are doing this renovation, they like the look of flush mounted lights. Which I think is just a fad now 😂.

I just have two problems with doing this.
The light output is not the greatest for home use since it’s a down light and there is no baffle. Which may lead to having installing more lighting.
Second, these are throwaway led fixtures. In case the light fails, which it can, you need to replace the entire unit. Which may require a complete re-wire if you can’t replace with the same fixture. Not the easiest for most people to do when it happens.

I’d rather install the proper led bulbs in existing fixtures. Bulbs are much easer to replace. Plus you can always change the led wattage by changing the existing led bulb.

[fs]

Just had the same situation in a new condo for my brother in-law. All electrical cabling is BX going into electrical boxes. Brother-in-law had purchased recessed lights with plastic electrical boxes. I had him buy ones that have metal boxes. When there was 1 or 2 incoming wires into the existing electrical box, I removed the box and had the wires fed through bushings (made for BX cabling) into the metal box that came with the recessed light and did all my connections there. There was one box that had 3 wires going in. That was too many wires to fit in the little metal box of the fixture so I left the box in the ceiling, added a pigtail using bx wiring from the original box and then put a round cover to close the box. Then put the pigtail into the new fixture box and terminated it. It was important in my case to use metal box because I needed to maintain a bonded connection on bx jacket all the way back to the panel. If I used plastic boxes that come with some of the fixtures, I would of broken the bond have ungrounded jacketed BX cable down the line. Very dangerous. I could of possibly used a Y bushing but not sure if it's legal to have 7 conductors going through a 1/2inch knockout. The metal boxes with the new fixtures did come with plastic bushings. They would of been ok if I were using romex which is not the case. You should definitely put a cover on the opened boxes and put bushings on your knockouts. I would also use full romex between the existing box and your fixture box. The added layer of jacket gives extra protection to the conductors.

[slighbm]

Thanks for this video.. normally don’t comment but this was what I was looking for.. and after reading the comments I know to add bushings.. “A” video..

[charmerxxx]

You can not have an open junction box. You should have went in thru the side and capped that old box.

[joeweatlu]

The existing junction box above the ceiling needs to have a cover. You can't just use the individual wires out of the existing box. Romex (even a short piece) needs to be run from the junction box to the led driver, which additionally needs romex connectors.
Thank you for your military service.

[hbrws]

Excellent video; step by step for us newbies at this! Thank you!

[rhondamcknight]

It would be nice if you showed more of the lighting. How bright etc.

[marcosalas]

Thanks Oscar de la Hoya, this really helped me

[yogibeer]

Awesome dude! I’ve got two of those aggravating light fixtures and I’ll switch to the ones you’ve installed. Thanks! I’m a subscriber now!

[dave]

These new lights are nice, but just remember that they direct light down. The so called "old" fixtures that hang below the ceiling spread the light around the room, lighting the room much better. Something that must be considered before making the switch.

[kensri]

Semper Fi and good job on the green belt. Thanks for rv video

[Patrick_Gray]

You look like a very nice young man and you are getting things done but, you made some electrical errors that you could correct.

I did electrical work 20 years ago, so I am not up on the current NEC requirements. Also some areas require wire to be in metal conduit or metal clad cables (MC Cables) even when the NEC does not.

The conduits could have been run when the building was built. Then the room finished below them later. You should ask an Electrician in your area, how this should be done and if the LED lights you have are ok. I don't know what is above the room. Could pest get to the wires? I noticed that there were Exit lights and an AC at an inside wall. The other wires could be for them.

The junction box in the ceiling was metal with 2 conduits coming into it.

(1.) All power electrical connections need to be made in an approved junction box, and the box must be covered. Some locations require metal conduits and boxes.
** This is because bad electrical connections cause heat, sometimes enough heat to melt copper wires and cause a fire.

(2.) Any wires or cables entering a metal box must be from a conduit or protected by an approved connector.
** Cables entering the box need to be protected where they enter so they do not get cut by the sharp edges of the knock-out hole and short out.

The video shows that individual wires not in a cable were run from the open face of the existing junction box through the open knock-out of the new LED included box. The wires were run not in a cable or a conduit.


YOU COULD HAVE:
(1.) Installed a large surface mounted light at the box location like a Flourescent light. It would provide better diffused light, not just down light.

(2.) There could be a new MC cable and connectors or flexible metal conduit run from the current box location to the LED light junction box. The current box would need to be big enough for all the wires and have a cover installed.
I suggested MC because I don't know if Romex (non-metalic wire) is allowed in your area.