🛠️🖱️ How to fix mouse scroll wheel encoder - Roccat Aimo Remastered

#MOUSE #ROCCAT #FIXED
00:00 Scroll wheel encoder problem
00:23 Remove teflon feets
01:13 Unscrew the screws
01:34 Open the case
01:46 Remove the scroll wheel LED
02:08 Disconnet the encoder loop
02:16 Pull out the wheel mount
02:23 Remember connection order
02:30 Choose a new replacement encoder -9mm (TTC or Kailh)
02:57 Detach the wheel from the mount
03:12 Remove the encoder from the wheel axle
03:16 Remember the order of connecting the wires
03:23 Unsolder the wiring from the encoder
03:49 Remove the tendrils with side cutters
04:04 Solder the cable to the new encoder
04:21 Put the new encoder on the wheel axle
04:32 Place the wheel and encoder into the mount
04:50 Check wheel spin
04:55 Install the mount
05:08 Connect the mouse to the motherboard
05:15 Mount the LED inside the wheel
05:58 Assemble the body
06:21 Test unfixed scroll wheel
07:10 Test fixed scroll wheel

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This is Roccat Kone Aimo Remastered.
I've had several of these mice and all of them have scroll wheel issues after a while.
When scrolling, it is buggy, there is a reverse scroll, or it does not scroll to the required number of lines.

In this video, I will show you how to replace the encoder on Kone Aimo Remastered with another one and solve the scroll problem.
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To disassemble the mouse, you first need to remove the Teflon feet.
This can be done, for example, with tweezers.

OK, great.

Now, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws and open the case.

The TTC ecoder is installed from the factory - blue.
However, it is not protected from dust.

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To remove the encoder, you need to unscrew the panel with the LED.

Now, on the right side, disconnect the 3-pin encoder cable.

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By slightly pulling up on the wheel, we remove it from the body mounts.

As you can see, the cable is connected to the encoder with three wires. We must unsolder them and solder the encoders to the new one.

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For replacement, we need 9 mm encoders. Of the new encoders, I have encoders from different companies in stock.
For example, these are TTC ecoders - green and yellow.
The green encoder is slightly smoother than the blue one from the factory.
Yellow has a smoother ride and increased time to failure.

But all TTC encoders do not have a dust cover, unlike Kailh.
I have a gray Kailh encoder and a red one.
The gray Kailh encoder has coarse cutoffs and increased time to failure.
Red is the smoothest and quietest encoder of all, even smoother than the yellow TTC.

I'll be installing a red Kailh as I scroll a lot on web pages and the bright "clipping" feeling annoys me.

Also, Kailh has a dust cover, unlike the TTC, which is very cool.

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The wheel together with the encoder is fixed on a special platform.
To detach the scroll wheel from the pad, firmly hold the pad with both hands.
And press from the bottom up with your finger on the wheel.

Now we disconnect the encoder from the axis of the scroll wheel.

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We carefully look at the order of the connected wires and the color.
In order not to confuse.

Left to right: two whites and one black.

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Now, using a soldering iron, solder the encoder cable.
Since I did not have any other soldering iron at hand and a thin sting, I had to tinker.

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Let's look at the Kailh encoder - it has tendrils on the sides.
We do not need them, so they need to be removed with a side cutter.

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Now we take the cable and solder it to the new encoder, remembering the order of the wires.

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Great, the cable is soldered to the encoder.

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Now connects the encoder to the wheel axle.
And we attach it to the holding platform.

In this case, you need to check the wheel travel: after landing, it should spin freely.

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Now we install this design on the body, putting the cable under the wheel.
And connect the cable to the motherboard.

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We install the LED in its place - we push it into the center of the wheel so that it does not cling to the wheel when scrolling.
As soon as you managed to find the optimal position of the LED, we twist the panel.

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We assemble the mouse body and enjoy the result!

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Now I'll show you what the original problem with scrolling was.
This is a stock mouse from the store.
Listen to the sound while scrolling, and also pay attention to the monitor screen.

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And here is our refurbished mouse with a brand new encoder.

[MrRockinRein]

Thanks for sharing! I recently replaced my left/right click switches, since I had double click problems. Will probably do the scroll wheel next, aswell as smoother glider feet. This video was very helpfull for taking my mouse apart!

[kLLerInstInkt]

Hi, i have a EU ROCCAT Kone AIMO Remastered. do you have a link for the wheel encoder?

[schwegelbin]

I have 2 questions:
Can you "re-add" the Teflon Feets?
Where did you buy the encoder replacement?

[iRaveInGame]

Вот у меня спустя месяц начало плохо работать колесо на ROCCAT Kone XP Air, можно купить нужный инкодер с алика и в ремонт местный отдать?
или китайцам проще назад отправить пока гарантия есть)

[MinkieWinkle]

The ONLY reason i still use this mouse is due to the shape and size, nothing i have tried even comes close to it, so it is my go to. HOWEVER. IT is disgusting that this scroll fault has not been fixed after 6 years of them knowing the fault, original and the remastered has had this fault from day one, Over the years, i have had 6 of these mice, For both my home PC my laptop, and i use them in work.

Out of the 6 i have bought, at least half have had the fault out the box, and then 2 others developed the fault after a a year.

I am hoping now, that with Turtle beach taking over the brand, they have actually addressed the issue, if not, i am honestly going to be looking else where for mice.

[Axeonik]

where can i buy the encoder and teflon feets

[Tui]

TTC Red is smoother, than TTC Green. TTC Gold is more tactile than TTC Green.