Petzl Neox vs Edelrid Pinch Comparison Video

More details in full blog post on this comparison here:

Got questions/comments! Let me know below!

[charlieg]

Informative video, thanks. The mispronunciation of "Edelrid" hurt every time, but the content made up for it 😅

[somanayr]

Thanks for covering both of these devices

It’s hard to tell, but it looks like at 1:38 your fingers are under the device. If you take a look at the pinch manual, it illustrates that only your thumb should touch the device

The grigri payout has a similar slack giving method, but only the thumb and index finger contact the device, and the index finger contacts with the side of the finger under the lip on the side of the side device. This keeps your grip strength sufficiently weak that you are not able to overpower the cam during a fall (which is possible! Check out Hard Is Easy’s videos where they test out the grip it seems like you’re using)

[swoopinRich]

This is the review I've been looking for. Thanks!

[Hailingfromcork]

Ed el rid. Also love the fast to to point video, but you gotta breathe and take longer shots my guy. Still one of the best pinch videos around. The pinch saved my ass, in a pinch, entertainment rigging.

[alexambro]

Such a nice video, super informative, no chit chat. I love what you have done, if I may, in the future I suggest putting time stamps if possible

[mwiz]

This is super excellent. I just heard about the Pinch and I've been digging around for reviews. The Neox is also equally interesting and for me I really like the idea of adding auto-camming for my lead belaying but I've always felt the Grigri to be... odd and I always felt there was room for improvement. Now it seems the market has caught up and is giving us some new design options.

[thatonefeller]

I suspect—can't say for sure, haven't even seen a Pinch IRL, let alone used one—that there's nothing particular to the Pinch that makes it okay to use for lead belay direct off the anchor (FPLB) compared to a Grigri or other ABD. The traditional wisdom has been not to use ABDs off a fixed point for lead belaying because they give a harder catch than a Munter, which will translate to higher force on the anchor.

The thing that feels plausible to me is that, yes, of course an ABD is going to transmit more force to the anchor, but that what Edelrid is saying is that on unquestionably strong bolts, those higher forces are unconcerning with regard to the anchor, and that a hard catch is better than no catch with regard to the falling climber. In other words, if the Pinch is okay for FPLB, I think the same must be true for a grigri. What do you think?

I've got a Neox and I'm pretty lukewarm on it so far. I think the thing it's good at—lead belay on a single pitch or in the gym—it is VERY good at. I love it in that use case. But the truth is, to my climber, I'm totally adept at giving a good belay with a grigri so it makes no difference to them. And I dislike the tendency of the neox to backfeed when toproping or belaying a second off the anchor. The grigri is lighter and, IMO, more versatile and while the experience of giving that super smooth lead belay is wonderful, I'm just not convinced I want to bother with a device that's so niche. I also don't necessarily trust that a neox would catch in that magic hypothetical scenario where I get incapacitated by rockfall, or a heart attack or whatever. A grigri just gives me the warm fuzzies more.

I follow you on Insta too—I really appreciate your content and con tributions to the community. Thank you!

[MonstaMunch]

The Pinch is also relatively left hander friendly. Not as good as a dedicated left handed version (which no one currently makes) but much better than a Neox or Grigri thanks to the design of the rope coming directly out of the top of the device rather than over to the (wrong) side.

[LeftCoast_TomP]

Very well done concise review. There is one Euro guy who reviewed the Neox and made a big deal of how it made clicking noises when pulling slack (under a bit of a load?) I struggle with how to pronounce Edelrid given the number of ways an E can be sounded out in English out but this guy pronounces it more like Elder-rid pretty sure that is not it.

[gravyblue]

I like, with a Grigri, to put it on the rope, close the side and then clip it to my harness. This is relaxed and comfortable. I found with the Pinch that using it without a carabiner to be awkward and fumbly. With the Neox it feels like it won't catch when abseiling. I can load a Grigri, swing my legs over the edge and be confident that it will be catching. The neox feels like it won't . I very much like belaying with the Neox.

[MISSYTHEPITSKY]

what rope u running I have black diamond 9.9 looks just like yours also I want 1 of these devices mainly for repelling from top rope solo as of now my favorite repelling set up is dual 9.9 with and atc and a third hand I'm a heavier climber and this is the perfect amount of friction for me witch device would u recommend that would be similar to my atc set up thank u so much the video was awesome it can be hard to find good gear geek content awesome job !!!!

[Day_in_the_life_higgy]

What a great video. I love Neox. The pinch looks like a phaser from Star Trek. Both devices are well made.

[yuval]

"Elderid" "Elderid" that bugged me so much...

[mikebartholow]

You need to learn how to pronounce Edelrid.