Petzl NEOX vs Petzl GRIGRI what you need to know

James and Steve McClure walk us through the New @PetzlSportVideos Neox. An assisted belay device ideal for lead belaying with super slick rope feeding and automatic fall arrest engagement. James explains how the Neox and GriGri compare, highlighting the Neox key features.

To learn more about the Neox visit the Outside website:

#climbing #sportclimbing #bouldering #tradclimbing

[DerekYoungYPR]

I wish the video made a call out on how this device could potentially correct the bad habit people have found of just keeping their brake hand on the device and using a thumb-on-thumb-off feeding slack method that''s been acquired over the years of the device's field implementation (aka: natural user behavior shift). I GREATLY appreciate how the Neox is trying to get people back into the technique of treating the device just as a belay plate with brake assistance rather than a "push of the button".

[Mike-ozcv]

How easy does it lock? A Grigri will lock in 99.9% of cases even if you violate the brake hand principle (as long as you don’t pull the lever or press down on the top). What about the Neox? Are we going to see a ton of accidents from people who got used to violating the brake hand principle with the Grigri?

Btw: I’m surprised none of these reviews mention the Wild Country Revo which is just as easy to feed out rope and take it back in and will basically always lock if the rope exceeds 4m/s.

[tomlw]

Tested it some months ago. Definitely gonna buy it, it works super good

[gabeh]

I wonder how the locking mechanism bodes for the rope's longevity due to the sharper bite point. Though I doubt it's much different from a rope through a draw on a fall.

[CFEFABB]

Among the circles I climb with, no one makes this distinction between grigri and tube style devices where one's more popular for trad and the other is more popular for sport. Is that a British thing?

[raphihuberclimbing]

A shame PETZL didn't put the steel reinforcement in the flap where the rope rubs over it. They did it in the GriGri+ and it extends the life of the device to nearly indefinitely. The softer aluminium rubs through after a couple of years. Well, I guess it's better for their bottom line that way!

[adamatch]

1:27 so true first time I was lead belaying for real I used the belay and it was so sketch for the first couple climbs there’s a sweet spot in paying out but ye it’s a bit of a odd one😂

[Mirabell]

Okay, I'm a sports climber that doesn't really have a clue how trad works, but: why would you not use the NEOX for trad? From the few trad experiences I've had belaying trad and sports looked very similar. What am I missing?

[bernhardlangers]

While it looks very interesting, I still do feel that we will see a lot of falls initially as some people simply got used to violating the brake hand principle with the Grigri and it seems that this device will not lock as easily as some other devices. @hardiseasy will surely provide us with some testing in the future. What will also be of note is that a Grigri tends to get a bit smoother once it is worn in properly, it will be interesting to see whether or not the same effect can be observed here.

[robertaston]

I would love to try one but I don't think I'd ever buy one. It is funny when people talk about how this is better because it pays out more like a tubular device. I bought an ATC-Pilot a few years ago and ditched my grigri. Tubular AND assisted braking. The pilot is the best sport belay device on the market IMHO. I have tried a couple others with similar design and none are as smooth as the pilot. To each his own though. Get a device and learn how to use it safely.

[HeresJonnie]

I've heard its not ideal for those who only do TR, since during a catch it will slide around 4cm (can be found in their FAQs).

[joshnoe]

I haven't seen anyone use a non-brake assisted device for trad climbing in a long time. A Grigri is perfectly fine for trad.

[k.w.]

Curious why the Birdie isn't more popular. It solved this problem a long time ago and is cheaper than the Neox. It's even got a slightly lower profile that takes less space on the harnes, locks well but also feeds out smooth and easy.

[Amanda-evxe]

My questions would be how it handles dirt, being a wheel as well as ice climbing applications. Would it freeze up?

[chrishluchan]

Can you belay the second? Petzl doesn't say etiher way in the manual. I assume you can't then?

[toadamine]

short answer...
grigri = auto locks even if you drop the rope, but hard to pay out slack fast

neox = pays out rope fast and easily, does not lock unless tension is applied to rope tail

grigri is a fail safe, great for beginners or solo climbers...
neox is an assisted belay device that requires a second person to belay but better for that when used with a belay partner.

[menguinponkey]

I certainly don't love the GriGri but I'm very curious about the Neox!

[fokuscat]

Does the NEOX also have the anti-panic lever like the GRIGR+?

[TheUnknownFactor]

Im using a click up because I hate how fiddly the grigri is, I might eventually give this a go

[jwg]

I wonder how it compares to grigri for solo-lead climbing?