Petzl's New Neox #climbinggear #Neox #petzl

[leveller]

I like how in the official video when showing tests without holding the brake rope, the "sometimes it catches quickly" case still shows the test weight slamming into the ground.

[DreIsGoneFission]

I guess my questions mostly revolve around top-rope soloing and rappelling. The “in Grigri we trust” situations.

[feluver]

Definitely want to know the conditions under which it will engage without a hand on the break/catastrophe knot. For a lot of folks, the main selling point of a gri gri is the "belayer is knocked out..." Scenario. I have friends telling me the neox won't engage already, but I think they are imagining the sheave ave being replaced with a free spinning wheel, not a clutch. I'm thinking about ordering one to find out myself, but it would be great to get an answer before purchase.

[thedanishvikingpilgrim]

For sure would like to know if Neox will work Well for top roping

[sebamobile]

How big are the difficulties if you belay from the top?

[jacobgaylord]

On another review I saw mention that the common way most people pay out a lot of slack with a Grigri (holding the cam down with the thumb) can lock up the wheel, so it is suggested to always feed like you’re belaying with a tube. Can you confirm this?

[undaware]

I predict this device will produce more accidents, at least until the world relearns how important the brake hand is. I'm amazed how often belayers fully let go of the brake hand. It can be multiple times on each climb. It's become normal practice, even for pro climbers. It's a function of having mostly used assisted devices, namely the trusted gri gri. The neox has less assist, which of course is why it works so well. The greatest risk will be when a climber pulls back on after resting on the rope. To be fair, Petzl is being super clear about brake hand vigilance for this device. There's going to be significant retraining, because it's scary out there. Belaying is at a low point.

[lezeroq]

Petzl sport released a video a few hours ago were Alex Megos said “Always hold breaking strand” multiple times. So I guess it will be a huge deal.
They even renamed device, but for some reason kept the same design. A new design would possibly prevent people of misuse

[Chase]

How quickly does the rope need to move for it to lock, and how much force does it need to slip (and how do those numbers compare to the grigri)?

[weijyunwang]

In mountain rescue, we often use Grigri plus as a progress capture device when hauling a patient, how the efficiency of NEOX?

[leveller]

What advantages does this have over an atc? Less force to hold a hanging climber once the device has locked? Is there more? That's a lot more complexity and points of failure than a metal tube.

[ceculbe]

“It looks like a GriGri but it works very differently.”
Not sure I want to be on the top side of the learning curve for this one.

[JoachimMilan]

I have just one question: why? If I want a device that pays out slack well, I'll take a Grigri. Otherwise, I'll use my megajul. I rarely find that I need to pay out slack better than a Grigri allows.

[mrnosy]

How reliable is the auto lock compared to the gri gri?

[cernsb]

I've always had the opinion I would rather have an attentive belayer with a tuber than an inattentive belayer with a grigri. I think this device has the potential to fix the bad habits that the grigri allowed people to get away with

[jonathanborger]

For me the two big obvious questions are:
1. How "well" does it catch falls with no hand on the brake strand? Similar to a GriGri? Similar to a tube?!
2. Can I easily lock it on purpose just like a GriGri (looking at you, Revo, crap device for redpoint Sport climbing).

[mrnic_]

How does it feel to repel on it? Is it worth upgrading from the current grigri? Is it more prone to user error that the current grigri, e.g. if the belayer has a loose breaking hand etc.

[sebamobile]

Is the wheel maintainable? I expect that it has potential to get stuck when used in sandstone.

[tysondunn]

My question is how this compares to a Grigri+. I never had any real interest in the Grigri plus until I was teaching my brother to lead belay the other day outside. He didnt realize how much more supple a lead rope is compared to an old gym toprope and I almost decked when he lowered me almost wide open. I had been thinking about switching to the plus because of that, but now I also like the features this provides. Everything I've seen compares this new device to the og Grigri, but I'd love to see how it stacks up in the rest of the lineup. I'd also been eying the edelrid pinch so a side by side with that would be nice too!

[filmfreunde]

Can you compare it with the new Edelrid Pinch as they are the main competitors at least in Germany?