Rappelling without an established anchor: Macrame/Equivocation Hitch

There are climbing situations where you do not have enough material to construct a rappel anchor, or where wilderness regulations do not allow you to leave anchor material behind. In these circumstances the Macrame (also called Equivocation Hitch) can be a handy way to set-up a rappel quickly and efficiently. I commonly use this system when descending from alpine rock routes, and sometimes during the walk-off from complex multi-pitch rock climbing objectives. Make sure to practice in benign terrain first, and keep in mind that this system can be fatal if not set-up correctly.

[fitdoc]

Clearest and best explanation and demonstration of the equivocation hitch. Thanks as always!

[dn]

This method of rappelling is so incredibly dangerous! My dad was SF in the Marine Corps and taught me about this. They teach them this technique because they can rappel and retrieve their rope “leaving no trace”. You retrieve your rope and no one is the wiser. But…. He also emphasized that IF done incorrectly, the enemy will in fact find your insertion point because they’ll also discover your body. Let that sink in.

[jaggedclimbing]

I like your videos, But this technique is also called the daisy chain of death for a reason, and I’m not sure this video really emphasizes how dangerous the technique is if not done properly. Even when done correctly it’s risky, and guides will only do it on, like you said, short, basically down climbable pitches. Sure, it’s worth knowing (and having practiced in advance) in case of emergency, but most recreational climbers should never plan to use this. If you can’t descend because you’re out of webbing, but you’re not 110% on the daisy of death, just run the rope around the tree or boulder and rappel on both ends. Come prepared, but if things go wrong, burn the bark, damage your sheath, leave material where you’re not supposed to. Neither is worth your life.

[GregoryPagano]

Brilliant! I can definitely see this coming in handy.

Your channel is severely underrated. Keep up the awesome content!

[stefanomorandi]

this looks more dangerous than a simple double strand rappel with no benefit in terms of retrival and snagging.... in fact the bight coming off looks more likely to snag.... and you get shorter ropes available when lowering because the daisying-up

[johnyoulden]

Great video. Well explained and something worth knowing

[-SeasonNature]

Glen just showed another technique. It'll come handy if you're comfortable using it.
I'll probably use a webbing as an anchor and leave it behind after a rappell bc I don't feel safe using the daisy chain of death.
My buddy and I were exploring a route to the saddle below Norman Clyde peak last year and we came to a sharp Cliff just on the side of the saddle. Then we saw a dyneema daisy chain anchor (which I also have) there apparently left by people taking the same route.
We didn't have our rock climbing gear, so we backtracked to get down safely.

[joshstiltner]

Great technique for abseiling when you’re out of tubular nylon, out of cordlette, and out of other options for anchors.

[kcin]

What is the advantage of using this over just wrapping the rope around the fixed object and doing a double stranded rap? Seems like you could use that in any place you can use this, and you don't have the risks associated with only having control of one strand

[poolplayerbrian]

Over the last year I've got into climbing due to moving to an area with many bolted sport routes. It was nice to see this technique cause I have wondered how people lower without fixed anchors or leaving behind gear. But the comments and your responses really emphasized how high risk this method is which is also a good thing to know. Obviously the more methods you have at your disposal the less chance you will have of being up the creek without a paddle but it does sound like a last resort method considering how easy the system could fail. Also I'm curious as to why you don't make the last two or 3 links on the long side instead of just the final one? Wouldn't that give more redundancy, or would it cause more issues?

[Mitzbergatc]

That was magic. I'll remember never to use it unless emergency, tho hah

[juanniyebe]

Amazing video!

Can we attach instead a paracord on the recovery rather than risk getting confused with the identical rope somewhere in the middle of rappel? Appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you.

[hobogreg]

This is like the dark art of rappelling. Super high level shit.

[lennmusicman]

What is the benefit of this technique as opposed to just ging down two strands of the rope? Like a standard rappel, but not through a ring, but around a big rock? Becuase you need the 'pull' rope to be as long as your rappel anyway.

[AK-xely]

There is a video showing that if you manage to undo the non loaded strand while rappelling, the entire thing will come undine. It won't just snag on the next knot and stay safe. Having 6 hitches does nothing for your safety when you pull the loose side.

[jillsindholt]

Hi
Me and my friend did this today. Wrapped the rope around a big tree with 5 meters to the edge of the cliff. We abseiled 30 meters down. When we came down we were not able to pull the rope down because the string that is supposed to be pulled through the loop could not pass through .it was too tight. We wonder if it made a difference that the rope went over an edge? Would be nice to experiment with.

[badassbmonkey]

Wouldnt it be safer to tie an alpine butterfly at half the length of rope and put one end of the rope through the AB then use the loop created as an anchor on the rock and then rappel down both lines? I suppose the AB has the potential to snag on something when retrieving i guess.. Just thoughts from an experienced tree climber but an inexperienced mountaineer... Thanks for the lesson, always great to learn new techniques..

[jordandowning]

At 2:40 you messed up... If you are going to post educational climbing videos please make sure they are spot on! Especially this knot!

[nineinchnail]

how about cow hitch around the natural anchor and also leaving no running end on other side of the rope and safety knot at the end, rappel down through both the ropes.
Does that makes any sense?

[FlorianReischl]

Why not simply rappel on double rope and pull down on one side? That's more safe and you don't have to try pull down a big sling that, most likely, will attach to the next bold, rock or tree.